HK Trucking

And the B87 had a much larger (wider) radiator than the B81 or B83.

The E7 didnt come out til 89 or 90, either someone swapped that motor into that 85, or else its an E6

....Brings back memories for me, too RRJ. The first 10 wheeler I ever drove was a 49 LJ with 220 Cummins, 5&2 Trans &44k rears. The trans shifting pattern was rev- Right & back. 1st- right & fwd, 2nd-left & fwd, 3rd-left & back, 4th-center&back & 5th- center & fwd. The aux stick was lo- fwd, & hi- back. It had "Armstrong" steering, you had to pre plan your turns & get up off the seat & start yanking on the wheel while still approaching the corner! Putting your thumbs around the steering wheel was a no no as you'd certainly lose em if the front wheels hit a stone or rut & kicked the steering back! That old Cummins had one hell of a lot of power for a 220,& the sound was awesome, not just the exhaust, but the combustion rattle too. With no real sound deadening material in the cab or firewall, the decibel level was amazing. Can't remember the rear end ratio, but the top speed @ 2100 rpm was about 48 mph. That's when Trucks were really Trucks! Herb

Whats the wheelbase?

A good friend of mine always said STP stands for "Sweet Tasting P*ssy". Personally, I run the 80w 90 Bulldog gear lube in mine year round. If its good enough for factory fill, its good enough for me.

Regarding that top photo; While I appreciate the skill, craftsmanship, artistry, & hard work it must have taken to create this "masterpiece", I can only say that I wish the "artist" would have expressed himself in a different way, rather than this waste of a perfectly good B model. IMHO, B models & Mack trucks in general do not need this type of "cosmetic surgery" to be attractive. A nicely restored , stock appearing B model is much prettier than this abomination. It almost borders on blasphemy to do that to a Mack! Just my opinion.

In order for that to happen, they'd have to call it the Volvo homestead!!!!!!!!!

I'll Second That!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If memory serves me correctly, up til 72 the tank, grille bars sides & the plate with the Mack letters were the same color as the body & they had the small Mack letters. Starting in 73 the tank, sides & grille bars were gloss black, & the plate with the mack letters was the same color as the body, & had the large Mack letters.

I agree with maintaining the original look, & with the quadruplex you got enough gears that you wont have to lug the engine down to the point where the pyrometer temp gets way up there. The hi temps usually occur below 1400 rpms on a hard pull- in my experience anyhow. If you did need more cool air, a duct from outside the engine compartment, such as what Trent suggested, would accomplish that,& still be inconspicuous. Again, congratulations on a job well done.-----------Herb

Nice job! That truck is definitely pretty! I'm looking at it & I see you used the original oil bath air cleaner. In the previous pictures I noticed that motor has a tip turbine intercooler on it, just wondering what provides air to the intercooler? Also, as far as having that quad box behind that motor, I can tell you from personal experience there won't be a problem , as long as no one does anything reckless with the driveline. We once put a ENDT 676 285hp into a DM600 with a quadruplex & never had a bit of trans trouble. Its just like anything else, if driven respectably it'll last forever,if someone really tries to break it, there's always a way!!!!!!!!!

It should be restored to its original condition & turned into a historical site. Sure would be a shame to see it knocked down & lost forever.

Do it whatever way you want, who cares! I'll believe the truth , & I'll keep doing it the way its supposed to be done, & not on paper either!!!!!!!!!!! The question was asked, I knew the answer, then I did some research to support the answer, but evidently it was a waste of my valuable time.

Now we can put this issue to rest once and for all. The official definition of whhelbase on a tandem axle truck is from the center of the front hub to a point midway between the 2 drive axles . This is according to the National Truck Equipment Association. Here is the link for this info http://www.ntea.com/tr/glossary_detail.asp?term_id=266 The real universal & proper way to measure wheelbase. Period!

1.00 to 1.00 (direct ) is the ratio in high gear on the TRXL 107, TRXL1071, TRL 107, TRL 1076, & TRL1078

Hey Rob, give me a call 920 730 0477 Thanks. Herb

I believe it is as Rob said, from the center of the front hub to the center of the trunnion shaft. Thats how they figure it at the truck dealer if you spec a certain wheelbase. On a single axle it would of course be from the center of the front hub to the center of the rear axle.

Rob, the original was a Schwitzer, the replacement was Borg Warner Turbo Systems. Got it from Diesel Specialists of Green Bay

Last summer the turbo on my CL with 350 mech. self destructed, the local Mack dealer couldn't find one & didn't know how long it would take to get one so I went to an aftermarket supplier. They got me one the next day, cost 1150.00 Pretty expensive but at least I got the truck back to work quickly.

The Mack paint code for Mack truck green is 40496PP. The PPG # is also 40496. Thats the "classic" Mack green , like whats on the truck in my avatar. I always use the PPG acrylic enamel with the hardener, very easy to work with & shines like crazy. Just be sure to use an approved respirator, any paint like that with isocyanates is very bad for your health. I do not have a code for the B model interior color, perhaps someone else will chime in here if they have it. Good luck, Herb

You say the temp. was 12 deg., possibly the fuel was gelling up? Have you tried it since the weather warmed up? Did you put any anti gel in the fuel tank(s)? A combination of fuel thats on the verge of gelling plus old deteriorated fuel lines on the suction side (ie from tank to pump) could cause it to suck air when under normal conditions there would be no problem. If you took out the primer pump & put a plug in its place be sure the spring & stuff is stillthere before putting the plug in or the supply pump wont work. I'd say put the primer back in & try to pump up fuel manually til there is pressure felt against the plunger when pumping it then loosen off the injector lines & crank the engine til fuel squirts out, tighten the lines & see if it will start. Hope you get er going! Herb

Just found some more #s, these are Mack #s for spray cans: Lt beige 312sx106p1, med. beige 312sx107p1, dark beige 312sx108p1

Find a local auto body &paint store that sells PPG paint. Back in that era PPG was the OEM paint supplier for Mack. I have an old Mack catalog here that shows the same #s as what dclerici had in the previous post. Have the paint store look up the # & hopefully they should be able to custom mix it for you. I have always used PPG products when re painting my trucks and they have always performed well. Also, I just noticed that the # in this book for the Mack green is the same as the PPG # for that color, so hopefully that # for the beige is also a PPG # as well. BTW, when you go to the paint store, take a piece of the interior with you(ash tray, upper dash panel etc.) just to be sure the color they come up with is correct. Hope this helps.

Yup, with the result being you can shift it like a car, dont have to get the RPM's right

To my knowledge Mack has never produced a synchromesh transmission for use in a class 8 truck. Some of the Midliners (Renault) were synchromesh but thats a whole different thing. The 9, 13, & 18 spds have a range shift synchronizer that prevents clashing when making a range shift, but all of the shifts made with the shift lever are unsynchronized. Pretty much the same with the Eaton Fuller 9, 13, & 18's also. Some Volvo made trans. are synchro, & I've also been told that in Europe the big trucks are all synchro.