220cummins

The set up I have, I got off the same weight axle as the one currently in the truck. I set it up identical to the one it came off of so thus far I have had no problems. I kept the air system the same but picked up the air from the second tank (dry tank not wet tank). Ive moved around quite a bit where my garage is and it hasnt run out of air. Thats why i like it so much.

my air-o-matic on my b61 is great. works great and helps steer a lot better than without it. I'd recommend it.

Looks like the louvers were added on. Im pretty sure these stock "grilles" are actually the condenser tubes on the Radiator for the a/c.

REMINDS ME THE BUS FROM THE GAUNTLET.

When you started up did you let it warm up before you rev'd it high? Or did you rev it high out of the gate? On start up on these, the 237, 285, 300, you gotta let the engine warm up some before revving it or they will drop a valve or bend push rods.

did you get the superliner on the road?

sell it back to joe hardy(owner 84 lumber) lol

I repaired a Gardner-Denver pull behind air compressor a few months ago that had a Waukesha VRD-155 4 cyl diesel. One thing it needed was a fuel tranfer pump. I was able to call up Waukesha-Pearce for parts. They told me if I wanted to rebuild the engine at this point they could provide about 90% of parts to me but GE just bought out Waukesha-Dresser and was getting away from the older parts and support. They also told me that parts were limited for the gas jobs of the various Waukesha engine. One thing about all this drilling going on my neck of the woods is the support that Waukesha-Pearce provides. They overnited the pump from outside Houston,Tx free of charge. They told me a lot of the compressors on the drill sites are run on Natural Gas Waukesha engines so the support is top priority.

It's a lot easier to purchase a remanned one and leave the old one for the core. My old man used to rebuild everything and he even says just replace it. And by everything I even mean rebuilding maxi-brake cans to quick releases.. Even made up special holders and compressors for them. I rebuild a lot of things. Engines, compressors, transmissions, valves...etc. When a remanned one is available and time is dedicated to other rebuilds... but anyways heres a bendix tru flow manual- http://www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay.asp?documentID=2390

I really like the rusted flap ant-sail weight used instead of the oringinal Mack brass name plate

The old timers around here called this a pregnant rollerskate Good look with the resto and keep us up to date with how it's coming.

I found this on a link for Sperry Rail Cars. I didn't know where to list it but so thats why it's in odds and ends. You can see body lines of a Mack City bus. Below is a link to Mack Built railcar for Sperry Rail Car http://www.danbury.org/drm/fcd-info.htm

Did you see the part that said less than 10 are known to exist?

my single axle cruiseliner rides real nice on the neway. I purchased a full screw 38k on neway from a very good member of this site but have yet to make the switch

If there is no carrier bearing you could have too long of a driveshaft with worn or binding u-joints. Measure your driveshaft and check with a driveshaft shop on recommended max length. I buddy of mine had a 84 KW tandem with air ride that had a bounce and Henry Farmer, good friend of my dads who was a rep for rockwell looked at it and recommended putting in a carrier bearing. He did and noticed a difference. Also if you wedges(wheel lugs) aren't set right and a set of wheels wobble like the passanger side intermediate axle has in the video it will bounce and shimmy. One set on my b61 (passanger drive) were out a about 3/8" and it shook and bounced to hell and back unloaded. Check you front fan shroud for tightness. The adjustment rods the crisscross can loosen up over time. Like miro said check you crossmember distances and add one if necessary. You seem to have a lot of little things that need attention and to be fixed the right. Do one thing at a time and by process of elimination you'll figure it out.

No one should ever ask for money on here unless they sell you something and at that I should be a fair price! somerset is near Pittsburgh, it was listed in the Altoona listing which is also near Pittsburgh

welcome! WATTS MACK,Ebay,or this forum for the best prices,best parts, and more importantly the best people. Chrome Fan shroud may be a little hard to get. stainless fuel tank straps-Cleveland Tank.

exactly. I think mack still sells a three piece one that you don't have remove the the boogies just measure it out use existing or drill new holes.

is that the hoist tank?

Every hole in the frames should be nut and bolted together with fine thread grade 8 fasteners. Especially where the splice was made. There is the flex in the frame rails as rob mentioned.

Any old truck is capable of doing today's job just at a much slower pace and a little less safe sometimes. Its all in partts,time,and how much you want to spend on the truck to get it specific to your application. As anything the rarer the truck the more money everything is going to be. If youre looking for something that will suite your needs with using a classic truck look for a Nice B or LJ. Ive seen 6x6 B's not many but a couple. Ive havent seen an LJ 6X6. Look around and talk to guys on here. Just try to be a little better concise.

Are the rear tires new or checked for bulges? Ive seen a freightliner single axle exhibit the same shake...The virgin inner tire on the drive side (passanger) side had a slight bulge in the center of the tread about 3"x1/2" high this was tread seperation. This tire was only a year old with low miles. Replaced the tire and the shake went away.

Check your tires for any bulges or bumps you could have some tread seperation. Check the diameter of the tires to compare if any differences between. Ive seen tread seperation start doing the same thing and it only gets worse. Also check you steer tires the same way. Add some balance beads to see if helps. You slack adjuster should be moving some even pulling out.

did you try Grand Rock? they are available locally in pittsburgh. Heres the website-http://www.grpipes.com/