220cummins

do you have the rears? do they need any rebuilt or parts ie drums shoes or seals etc? I understand the truck is a r688st(tandem) but trucks can change significately throughout thier life but is the truck a single or tandem axle ie frame rail lengthen and driveshaft lenght? What condition is the frame rails and cross members in? Thats just the major items. Then you have to get into the neway airide system what condtion is that in? does it need new bags, plates, torque arms ..etc. after check all that and everything is good you just gotta take some measurements tear out your old rear drill,layout where the air ride is going drill some holes, get some new hardware, install new air lines, Put your wheel back on. Im not trying to be rude but somemore backround always helps out when asking a question to get the best answer to it. Im starting to do this to my cruiseliner in the fall/winter of this year. I got all my parts for with a lot from good guys on here.

It's usually the second sunday in september. Its a nice little sho plus the admission get you access to the trolley museum and trolley rides

I'm west of pittsburgh by about 5 miles. About 15mins north of Houston called Carnegie right on 79. You should venture out to the PA Trolley Museum in Washington,Pa. Every September local ATCA pgh chapter holds a truck show. Its nothing like Macungie but its a nice time.

see you all saturday at noon! My dad and I will be there minus the bmodel although we made it to watts last saturday to pick up some parts and shoot the breeze some with the truck. It was a nice ride through the tunnels aka nice and loud with brake lights in the mirrors ...If anyone is from around pittsburgh you'll know what i mean. lol

Name: Mack Cruiseliner (1982) Date Added: 27 May 2011 - 08:45 AM Owner: 220cummins Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle

ONLY IN OHIO! LOL

I guess its really a chaging of the times. I can remember going with my dad to get parts at Pittsburgh Mack when it was Pittsburgh Mack in the evenings when I was a little kid. Those guys always new exactly what you needed, why you needed it, and had it there on hand or could get it for you next day air. They knew the numbers off the top of there heads. They knew by everyone by name and always would let me climb up (with my dads help lol) in the newest MH or DM and give a few tugs on the air horn. I always looked forward when my dad would come home from work and say "Gotta go get some parts at Mack tonight" it was always a good time. Now if you call Trans *dge its like talking to Advance auto parts. "Whats the last 6 of your vin" with my reply-"my SERIAL number won't be in you system." I understand time change and a lot of the time some things change for the better but you shouldn't forget the past and understand why things work they way they do today because of yesterday...I mean they're were great relationships built from the simply getting good-fast parts and good-fast service from knowledgable and courteous parts men and service managers. Like Ive been told from many people in the industry about my dad "a great mechanic/truck driver from the last of a dying breed" same goes for the dealerships from yesterday. The "last of a dying breed" for parts and service but definitly on the cutting edge of technology is WATT'S MACK. Maybe it comes full circle and the "last of breed" for good-fast parts and service becomes cutting edge. I know Watts will be there. In the last five years in dealing with Barry, Tracy, and Tom at Watts ive always had great luck. The building of this relationship is a throwback to the past because they understand things and how and why they work. I want to be able not only to get all the good things that make a dealership good but also some day take my son (non yet lol)and climb up in the cab of a new MACK and tug on the air horn. Watt's really has a good thing going and I hope others will see the success and try to emulate that!

I have the fifth wheel almost off of the the rear of the truck and it barely gives me 72" now.... I'm not concerned about the work.. Im concerned if the above pictures are infact a mack air ride cutoff. I know theyre eatons rears i just want to know what suspension it is? Im only familiar with neway and a little familiar with older mack air rides. I'd like a full screw for a couple or reasons... Functionability, looks, and price are why I'm looking at this particular set.

if theres a switch under the seat its 24v. Its called the series paralell switch. A lot of guys eliminate them and covert to 12v. There are no headaches when you convert. If there is no switch under the seat then someone did you a favor and converted the truck to 12v.

Here some pictures. I don't think its a maxlite 40? Im not real familiar with what kind ie manufacture or model they are? any help would be appreciated.

I need the wheel base. I want to stretch it some for more clearance behind the cab. its really short. So ill stretch it and put a tandem under it's about the same amount of work... which i dont mind lol

I'm looking at a full screw air ride cutoff for my cruisliner from an '01 CX600. It looks like it has a Maxlite 40. Does anyone have any info on these? I don't know anything about them. How are they? Right now the cruiseliner has a neway single axle under it and I love it but I would like a full screw. Ive driven a buddies Rmodel with neway tandems and mack rears and liked them a little better than his Rmodels with mack airride. thanks.

You came to the right place if your looking for any parts especially oddball stuff this is the place for it. There is a wealth of knowledge and great people to help you out here. as far as the speedo goes watts mack or try to look search ebay for one, they are on the periodically. finding a hood you'll have to keep posting on here, ebay, or craigslist. Glove box cover would be the same as the speedo.

If its the original motor my bet would be a 673T is not a 237 because it has the perry water filter (sock type) not a spin on water filter. The 711 thermodyne i believe didnt come out until the early to mid 60's. mack didnt start putting turbos on until later in the productions because of the famous head gasket and cooling problem. The 711 also when to more head studs to help in holding it together. So my guess since its a 1959 same year as mine and I had the almost identical water filter, luberfiner oil filter setup, and turbo its a 673T Thermodyne. Now if it's not the oringinal motor everyone who replied to you could be correct with there suggestions. Bottom line its definitly a Mack engine with that great mack sound

I was doing some more research and came across this link. http://www.walkercoach.com/wheels.shtml The truck is a single axle w/ a 23k rockwell rear on new way air ride. I'll have to look closer but will prob end up changing out the hubs. Thanks for the info.

I got some new 22.5" aluminum hub pilot budds for my '82 Cruiseliner. The truck has 24.5" stud pilot rims on it. Just looking it over I'm guessing I'm gonna have to change studs and lugs to fully convert. Is there anything else im not seeing? I'll change the speedo gear too.

Name: Mack b-61T (1959) Date Added: 25 January 2009 - 02:23 PM Owner: 220cummins Short Description: Over the past few years the truck has been rebuilt/upgraded from ground up. View Vehicle

Thats what I always thought. Mack recommended adding this kit to help the valve problem and cooling overall. Not to mention the power increase.

Millermatic 175 Mig (220 Volt) and Miller Thunderbolt 250 stick machine, its and older model with copper windings great old machine! The 175 works good for lighter gauge stuff butyou gotta stick the heavier stuff like on these Macks.Ive always been a fan of Millers. We also have a Hobart handler 140 machine at work that works great. I've welded up to 1/4" plate with that machine with good penatration!

I have a 1982 Cruiseliner that I just had both cab lift cylinders and lock cylinders rebuilt. Does anyone know what oil I should be putting in the system to lift the cab. When I got the truck the seals were blown out and leaking oil everwhere. The oil that was in it was transmission fluid but I put jack oil in it thinking because it is a jack it would work better. Is this the right fluid or should I use transmission fluid or hydrualic fluid. I don't have the manual (It didnt come with the truck) to look at it.

He's still posting.

If you google "auto123 automotix" you'll see this person or computer program is on a bunch of forums related to the automotive or trucking industry. I think its trying to marry all the sites together and become some sort of goofy search engine? Anyways this member shouldnt be a member anymore here! The posts are off topic and non-helpful.. Basically just wasting everyones time!

Spin-on is the way to go. The luberfiners always leak like a sieve. Spin-ons are much easier. There are different number of head studs on the 711 model to model. The 711's were notorious for blowing headgaskets so Mack changed the number of head studs to have a better clamping area. Thats whats going to determine if it's possible if you put the turbo on the 711. You'll have to put the injection pump and injectors from the 237 on because theyre made to work together and you already know you need the heads for the injectors. If that would all work then you have to figure out what condition is the pistons in and if they'll take the extra air thats geting forced in there. If they got cracks or hot spots then theyll need replace. Parts for the 711 are hard to by. IMHO in the long run rebuild the 237. They're cheaper,more relible, and parts are way more readily available.

Try Cleveland Tank, they made me my stainless straps to custom length with the insulators for half the price of a powder coated steel ones from Mack. They sell the insulators seperate....heres the link http://www.clevelandtank.com/tank-accessories.html Pretty good people to deal with Barry from Watts actually told me about them.