glenbjackson

Do please show us pics when you remove bad clutch cover!!! id like to learn!

the input shaft is not shown but goes through "release sleeve", rides on the two bronze bushings .......

im not dumb and do want to help so i have to ask am i the only one seeing in the video the release bearing and the clutch cover NOT connected?????? i see the input shaft but you should NOT be able to see that. the input shaft should be inside the release tube, which connects the release bearing to the clutch......... seems the clutch wont work you have a video with motor running and throwout bearing moving?

i do agree......to mount the rims and remove the runout of the rim on the spoked hub, I'd jack up each wheelend. although once mounted and aligning from side to side(toe in/out or axle/tandem alignment) you might want to measure as the truck is driven. with weight on bearings/linkage/springs and without brakes influencing the bearings. PS while test driving please dont forget you WILL/should drift to the right, albeit very slowly even on a straight and level stretch!! that is the road design(drainage/safety), not your truck.

setup is important tooo...... roll forward straight one-two truck lengths and roll to a stop without using brakes. and proper tire pressure!!

could you or a machine shop make them? a small lathe?? i was wondering samething when i goto fix my old pumps and getting parts.

there is supposed to be a tube(release sleeve[with bushings inside]) connecting to release bearing to the pressure springs! so looks like simple replace clutch cover/release bearing

i do not see a center tube that is connected to the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers? i just see the naked input shaft.........or im missing something???? i dont see this release bearing pulling the clutch open

i have to say a "Winona intheblok crankshaft grinder" is akin to buying a home made gasket....it could work if planned, executed correctly and tested for application. both CAN be effective for a permanent fix, both can fail the setup/application. so would i buy this if given a chance. YESSS could turn out better then OEM and they exist. i cannot afford a obsolete/discontinued/nonexistent part. id buy a few and test on a spare motor. but thats alot of time, work= money. but i also see the learning and research aspect of it......priceless just never know until you know(measure/tested) P.S. anybody have the flywheel turning gear/cable attachment for the winona crankshaft grinder. PM me please looking to buy.

also what kind of wheels? cast spoke or disc wheels (lug piloted or hub piloted)?? mounting wrong could cause this.

wow!! that's a slick setup!!! thank you!!! know any model of truck it came in? i gonna find one or two of these!

owwww ok ok thanks!!!! any other info, model designation of truck they were in or literature? sounds like weird setup but Mack does stuff right so id like to see one..... own one!!

awesome articale!!! thanks!!! but that model used a Fabco 16.000lbs front driving axle so no gold bulldog there. but thanks for article pretty cool tractor AND COE smh love it!!!!

is that possible did Mack ever manufacture a front drive steer axle? or did they just always use fabco, rockwell and the such others manufactures??

i like air adapter idea as well, think ill make one. on truck plumbing i suggest installing hand primer on lift pumps as well as a hand pump near the tank. i have this setup on my CM soon all my trucks. Story on how i came to that setup....A sneaky leaky hand priming pump left me stranded once. very very old plastic hand primer pump allowing air into system. Plastic pump was replaced and new one trying to pull fuel on a dryish??\open system through filters didnt work out. Learning from that i just make my fuel systems able to get prime whereever im at. Any patching to get going on side of road may need fuel system priming. the one near tank is just same hand primer pump at lift pump, with two check valves(one on either side of tee-in hand pump), with a ball valve in parallel(cut off only for priming)

i have not tried this but if you cover any vents/holes ..... possibly yes. try it!! fueling is more easily diagnosed with a hand pump at pickup pump AND one down near tank. i have added little hand primers to all my trucks at pickup pump(on injection pump) and next adding another down near tank. any patching to get going on side of road may need system priming. i have this setup on my CM currently and a leaky hand priming pump left me stranded once. very very old plastic hand primer pump was replaced and after trying to pull on a dryish??\open system through filters didnt work out. which i thought that was the purpose of a hand priming pump but hey ive learned. although could have been other leaks in the systems or even quality of replacement hand pump. whatever the case i say just install two hand pumps, call it a day. Or maybe moving tank to same side as injection pump, closer may help idk.

what model transmission?

have you tried cleaning it then adjusting and tightening the cap to take up the wear and lastly greasing it???

data plate is customizable. stamp it with reverse stamps from the back.??maybe???? but if your law saying it acceptable one way then they have to accept it. unless there was a change. Most workers dont know all the rules and you knowing a piece of info they dont have nor want to verify you'll need to go over their head. i have had this issue but only had to go one through one DMV worker. advise to check if there is a weighted scale for registration ie heavier cost more, to figure where you want to register at, you might want to go less then truck is made for. but that is one reason no dry weight. sometimes truck dont have body and all accessories so finishing company weights it after everything is installed. some placards dont even have a line for empty weight, i dont recall any of mines having empty or curb weight. what are those other 4 methods to get wieght per WAC 308.96A.101? maybe mack museum has some records of your build contact them. mobile wheel scales

i was born in Norwich, Conn!!!!!! i HAVE TO drive one my DMs or CM to these locations and of course Mack Museum. thanks for pics

Page 4! Showing off the in door washer fluid reservoir has mirror attached to door..odd! Goodness that blue u looks good

i never owned a U and always wondered if cabs were identical with DM and R models. i do know one difference you can spot them, if the cabs off chassis and cant tell if its offset. DM or/and U( i think) .....they have passenger mirror attached to cab and not door. which is odd the brochure listed earlier shows a U cab with mirrors on the door. which would hit the air cleaner. looks like preventing you from opening door for easy ingress/egress...... mmmm odd. maybe a change after first year idk??

the front beam is shared around, it has a large flat spring pad thats wider than my frames/spring spacing. i just noticed it replacing my tie rod and leaky hand primer pump(left me stranded). replaced injection pump hand-primer and added one after the tank to get fuel pass the primary filter. as im checking out my axles i have a eaton 24000lbs rear axle and i gather from fourm, a mack axle up front. i dont know original GVWR, currently under the radar AT 26000lbs. my truck has been a road-tractor then a dump truck, now a flatbed truck and in future a darak runner. 🤤 yes whatever, you or the truck builder makes and registers it as. i have double frame, i was surpised. just gonna add dual drag arms and shocks to both axles. with macks t-case hoping its not too baby to fit shafts long enough for full axle travel my cab is fastened to frame by four rubber cylinders(just solid isolators) and four shocks. Pedigreed Bulldog great job on restoration. i like the colors. and thanks for info. What rear axle do you have? and any tips on replacing wheel seal?? i changed twice!!! and still leaks. oddly enough i can see the seal through inspection holes in the spider, the seal is completely dry!!!!

the ratio of the front axle would be faster or smaller numerical ratio for mack transfer cases. they are to be installed with that setup of axles, to have "fast forward" axle ratio to be able to unlock the differential in case the drive line has wound-up torque. very very nice truck.

id tell him to keep pushing through, you learn a huge amount of how you motor works and interchangeability by doing and touching it yourself. also he's keeping usable parts out the landfill if he shares his knowledge on these forums we all dually benefit from his effort. im also tearing down a ford motor i never knew existed. 6.22l inline 6 diesel, mechanical pump...... elegantly simple. came in farm trators, road trators, dollies and trucks overseas. alot of commonlly available parts that no literature mentions that would be compatible. would not know unless i held part in my hand and seen this might fit such-n-such. this is how you become one of the guys with a wealth of knowledge..... by doing.