Underdog

Go ahead and line me up in front of the firing squad, but IMHO the MH was THE finest truck that Mack ever put together. Very well engineered, comfortable, easy to drive and service. Styling ahead of its time- even today it looks like a modern truck.

My '85 had E9500, 9 speed, 208" wheelbase on "soft ride" camelback springs. With my spread axle air-ride trailer loaded right, this truck rode as good or better than my current CX.

Go ahead and shoot me again 'cause I traded my MH for the CX.

Gregg

Some on the forum may agree or disagree with me, but I have been working on trucks for over 20 years and this has always been an issue with most Macks I have seen. I remember working on R models with no dryers the dashboard drips oil through the air valves if the driver was not draining the tanks. My 2000 CX with dryer still gets oil out of the tank drains. I am on compressor #3 and I change the dryer cartridge every 200,000 miles. Maybe the way the compressor is lubricated, but a lot of oil ends up in the air system. An air dryer helps(compared to a truck without a dryer) but draining tanks at least weekly and changing dryer cartridges regularly is the best way to minimize the oil.

With the lever in the "normal" position, air is supplied to the trailer, which also releases the trailer parking brakes if so equipped.(spring brakes were not required on trailers until 1977). During "normal" driving, trailer service brakes work as an extension of the tractor's brakes with the foot pedal. The hand control, AKA spike or trolley valve, will apply only trailer brakes, useful for jacknife situations or backing under an older trailer.

In the "emergency" position, air to the trailer is shut off, and the spring maxi-brakes will apply. (air pressure in normal driving keeps the springs back). The "emergency" position also allows you to unhook the trailer without losing air thru the trailer supply line.

Gregg

Has anyone seen any 2009-2011 mack plow trucks? The County I work for is talking about a new single axel.They are talking about a 4x4.Just looking for input and pics?

The township where I live just got a new Granite tandem. I just noticed it the other day and will post photos ASAP. Nice to see Mack is back in town. They have an older RD then got 2 Peterbilts in between.

Gregg

This trailer sees a lot of use and the owner is quite pleased with it. It is a 2004 model that was purchased used for $2000. I am also pleased with it, as we made it home damage free.

My first thought was a NUT SPLITTER but they don't cost $630.00. Besides, a well placed sharp chisel and strong blow with a 3 pound sledge will achieve the same result. That way, there is no evidence of a pre-meditated purchase and Momma could beat the first degree rap.

Well sooner or later it happens to the best of us... I lost my turbocharger 12/13/10 in Middletown, NY and needed a ride about 70 miles home. This was the first time we have ever had to be towed. At least I made arrangements for the proper unit to pick me up.

Gregg

This truck parts store does not by chance also sell fireams I hope for your sake, Rob.

Just trying to explore all the angles...

Gregg

Thanks. I would have linked to their site myself if I knew how! Definitely money well spent on this product. The steer axle balancers are easy, you install them once and they take care of the wheel and drum. I also bought the sleeve tool for drive and trailers, but I have run across some tire shops that don't want to fuss with them because it takes an extra 3 MINUTES to install wheels. Usually those same establishments don't own a torque wrench either!!! This is why I do most of my own tire work so not much of an issue for me.

Gregg

P.S. Make sure when replacing brake drums that the stud hole I.D. on the new drum is the same as your old. I found out not all "universal" drums are the same. I had to shop around a bit to find one that fit with my TRU-BALANCE sleeves.

The snow looks great in pictures... I have been fortunate to have missed most of it so far this year. I have not worked much of December been home dealing with some mechanical issues, and now I am engaged in a full-on pissing contest with my dispatchers...

Gregg

A word of caution if you wrap tanks with stainless... If you run in a lot of salt & crap you want to remove the covering at least once a year to clean underneath. That stainless looks sharp on the outside while corrosion works its evil magic underneath. Same goes for tank straps- once a year remove & clean you will be amazed at what you find.

Gregg

Check that the brake drums and wheels are centered on the hubs. I had this issue a while back after I replaced steer axle brake drums. On a truck this old, the tabs for the hub pilots may be worn to where they don't hold the drum & wheel centered oon the hub. There are two options if this be the case. New hubs, or do what I did... install TRU-BALANCE centering sleeves. This product does what the seller claims! Look online or in the trade magazines; I would recommend TRU-BALANCE to anyone with hub pilot wheels.

Gregg

Do the two volume Mack highway service manuals cover the B-models?

Thanks

When I sent my serial number (along with a generous donation) to the Mack Trucks museum, included in the documentation package I received was a Highway Service manual specific to the model year of my truck. I have a 1963 F model, and the manual covers all the models for that year B, F, C and MB.

Gregg

I love the look of a steel nose

Growing up in NJ back in the day steel hoods were all the rage. All the dumps were DM800 tandems, mostly on 12.00-24 rubber. A real treat in my childhood of the '70's and 80's was to see the diehards still running B-81's. TOO COOL!!!

Gregg

Gregg,

I have heard that Mack did recommend some low pressure turbocharger retro-fits for the early 711's. They didn't actually produce any 711's with turbos from the factory. The kits were to correct a problem with a specific run of 711 serial numbers, as I understand it. And Rob is correct in pointing out that these were really "turbo-normalized" applications with pretty low boost pressures, as they were intended for head & valve cooling purposes primarily.

Regardless, it still doesn't make the 673P a likely candidate for turbocharging. However, if you look around, you can find a 673C-ENDT factory turbocharged 205 hp engine that was, in fact, an original Mack option in your truck. That makes the most sense to me.

If originality isn't a real concern, a good 237 is a way better idea. In either case, the engines are available pretty reasonably, and are almost bolt-in retro-fits.

Paul Van Scott

My truck and engine are original and in good condition. That is a factor in my decision. I have my eye on another complete truck, a 1970 F with a 237 to do my work and keep my '63 for shows and such. The seller though is asking about double what I think it is worth, so we will see how that goes.

Gregg

Did not explain fully I guess. I want to pull myself with a 2 ton engine hoist. The place locally said the inner differential weighs 400lbs. but my mechanic friend seems to think it should weigh more than that.

400 lbs. does seem a bit light, but you will be OK with a 2 ton hoist. Done it myself 12 years ago I don't think they have gotten any heavier.

Gregg

My 1964 711 has been turbocharged since April, 1966. It was a retrofit from Mack to keep the valves from burning in the heads by pushing more air into them. The byproduct of this was more power. My grandpa had purchased three B61's with 711 engines and not one ran 100,000 miles before needing the valves done because of burning. These trucks were also retrofitted with turbocharging and supposedly they were good trucks afterward. This is as I remember grandpa telling it many years ago.

I don't have a boost gauge in either this B61, or my B67, but I'd bet pressure build was slight.

Rob

Rob, do you know if any other modifications were done along with adding the turbo? If the desired result was to add more air, was the fuel pump changed as well or left alone?

I would say a pyrometer is more telling than a boost guage for these old engines.

Gregg

The tanker division at Schneider National, Schneider National Bulk Carriers, is increasing owner-operator compensation by 5 cents per mile. The new rate increases owner-operator compensation to $1.05 per mile, plus fuel surcharge, for loaded and unloaded miles.

View the full article

OH WOW......yawn. When you offer $2.05 per mile, give me a call.

Hi, I live in Australia and we need to import alot of rarer trucks here as we had limited models available from new. For me I find it very interesting to see what else was available, always think that the person that paid the money is going to save the vehicle so it will be around for future generations, one day it may go back to USA shores as I know some rare 60's muscle cars have been exported back to the USA. When somebody imports a vehicle it costs alot in freight, import duties, taxs etc, they should be able to do justice to the vehicle and look after it nicely as the plan will be good generally. I feel it is a good thing

Agreed. I think the Aussie iron are some of the coolest trucks! You guys should ship some up here stateside!

Actually , the local body shop has a Euro spec Mercedes sedan out for sale I have had my eye on, so I guess it works both ways. We have enthusiasts all over the world, no reason we can't all share.

Gregg

Talk about sissy! It is 60 degrees and monsoon rain & wind here in PA and I don't even want to go out in it! I got all my parts for the CX but have no ambition to go out and get soaked putting it back together. Quite content taking my second cup o' coffee in the INDOORS.

Gregg

I sure hate to see our history being exported outside the U.S. But the bright side is the trucks will continue to provide years of reliable service. So, keep them here not running due to weight laws and DOT headaches or send them overseas to live and run once again on the open road. Its a tough call, but in my opinion I'd rather see the truck running then being cut up for scrap. Any opinions on this one? I myself have sent a few over and regret it now...

I sold an old car and a truck overseas, and I had some regret about it at first. But in both cases, an overseas buyer was the only REASONABLE offer I got. It seems there are a lot of buyers in this country that want to give half $$$ what a vehicle is worth. It makes me proud to be an American to know that our vehicles and our lifestyle is in such demand all around the world.

Gregg

Thanks everyone for all the info. These engines were before my time and I am still trying to learn as much as I can.

Paul you are right to say that is a nice F model, and thank you! It is a clean, good running 673P, so I hesitate to modify it in any way. Stay tuned, the turbo & fuel pump, etc. I have may soon show up for sale.

It was a lot of fun getting that picture, too. It was taken as I went a few laps on Mack Truck's test track at the old Engineering Center in Allentown 10/30/10. If you look close, my friend Bill is trying to keep up with his IH Emeryville!

Gregg

Does anyone know of a good turbo and manifolds for a 711? I know it's probably not worth it, but I've got a B-61 10 wheel dump truck with an awesome running 711 in it. I know they're prone to blowing head gaskets, but I still want to try. The motor i've got is the later model with more head bolts so maybe it will last a little while...

I recently aquired a turbo set-up for a 673 thermodyne, including all manifolds and fuel pump. I am not sure if these parts will work on a 711. Perhaps others on the forum can elaborate.

I have been debating whether to put the turbo on my own 673P, as I have been told that none of the thermodynes had piston cooling jets. The jets first appeared on Maxidyne engines. If this is incorrect, I am sure I will hear about it as well

Gregg

Started the truck last night...piddling around letting it get warm, noticed the shutters were open? Got up in the cab and noticed the air pressure was about 30 and not climbing...I shut the engine off, looked under the hood and heard the govenor leaking air. As it was dark and late I will look at it this evening...my question is, are these things normally rebuildable, I would think it is just a spring, valve, and some ports.

I would think that when the pressure overcomes the spring pressure, it opens a port, bleeds off the air in the the valve line, thereby unloading the compressor, so maye the valve is stuck open and not letting the compressor build pressure?!? Correct?

Thanks

Air governors are cheap (between $15- $35 depending on where you buy) and no core charge., so they are not worth rebuilding. Don't forget to troubleshoot though. Stuck unloader valve in the compressor or a pinhole leak in the air lines could give the same symptoms.

Gregg

My wife "discovered" the cool TELESTEPS ladder I carry in my side box. She thought it was the best for hanging the Christmas lights. Folds down to 24" to fit in the box, and extends out to 14' or anywhere in between. Great for truckers.

I have been putting my tool set to good use this week. I am home doing some front end work on the CX. Front brakes, kingpins, tie rod ends, shocks, new steer tires. Today's project is front cab mounts.