youngstown.bulldog80

What is the suggested torque spec for the both 7/8" and 1" trunnion stand-to-frame bolts (square or trapezoidal)? In fact, is there a link to an online site that would show all the torque specs for everything on the bogie/suspension - mainly for SS 38 44 and 50?

Thanks so much for the help.. your input is much appreciated.

Thank you for the info! Again, I've only had to deal with 4" bands so the wider ones threw me off. I figured it would have something do with hubs/wedges. Would it be the same theory behind hubs on Rockwell axles? And, is there a "standard" width used on Macks with the 22" hubs on Mack axles?

On 20” and 22” Dayton hubs - What determines the width of the wheel spacer bands?? Most of what I have use 4” wide bands on 20” hubs, however I was organizing some stuff and came across 4.25” and 4.5” wide bands (some for 22” hubs). I just can’t recall how to know off hand when to use the 4.25” and 4.5” bands.

I believe the guy above is correct.. you may have to fab up a mount for the front. I could be misinformed but I had always thought the RD had the beefed up frame but for the era of your trucks maybe a cab swap is possible.. do some investigating and take some measurements etc. As for the hood ?? And double check the 5 spd trans in each.. if they’re both the same model 5 spd such as TRL107 or TRL1076. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum so I’m sure you will get all the information you need.

Will do thanks!

Attempting to identify a couple main/aux transmission setups. The ID tags are as follows: Main - Fuller 5H74T, Aux - 8031e....I'm guessing that the main is simply a 5 speed direct in 5th (looks like single countershaft), but is the 8031e an old spicer 3 speed aux transmission?

Sounds great I'd appreciate that! It would help out a lot. I just sent you a message with my email address. Thanks!

So the "64" would indicate a tandem axle truck, as in "six sets of wheels, four driven" (the four being the tandems)?

Thanks for the example...yea, they seem a bit difficult to decipher. Trying to learn that secret code!

Thanks that would be great! Keep me posted...

On the old Autocar's of the 60s and 70s, how is the chassis/model number deciphered? For example DC10364SOH, DC9764OH, DC75T.....etc. I've tried searching online but could not come up with anything to help decipher all the different numbers for the different truck models.

just an update...went to see Ed at Margala's and i found exactly what i needed, however he doesn't want to separate it from the truck. But, he said he's sure he's got a couple more similar he's just got to "find it". So he told me that he will get back to me in a day or two. Hopefully it works out so I can paint it and put up on the roof before the end of Oct for a show I'd like to go to. And WoW, it's difficult to see from the road but Margala's has a lot of trucks there. Never noticed until today. He had quite a few Ford Louisville's too.

no problem, i appreciate your assistance

just googled them to get a phone number to call in the AM, but it says permanently closed lol. i'll try the number anyway. but thank you for the message!

i forgot all about Margala...got on their website, i've just sent them an email. Thanks for reminding me about them. So far I contacted West Point Truck Center, Adelmans, and Aerodyne Industries. West Point had nothing, Adelmans had just one but it was too wide, and Aerodyne said they could make one but it would require new mounting brackets be installed on the cab roof for their style...i told them I had existing mounting brackets but according to the person I spoke with, they are not compatible. USF Holland in North Lima actually has the same style and size on their older road tractors...but they don't have any spares to part with. So I guess the search continues...

nice...yea i'd do the same, only put it up as needed.

ok great! will look into that as well. Thanks again!

i'm waiting to hear back from Adelmans...i sent them the pictures of what i needed, so maybe they'll have something. I also did the same with West Point Truck Center in Lisbon. If I could find a used on in decent condition I'd be ok with that, as I'd have to cut out a small section in the bottom-center of it for the rooftop A/C anyhow.

thanks for the phone number and for the spectrum website, i'll definitely check to see if they have anything that would work. it says they have them for roof brackets 34-37 " center to center, and my roof brackets are 37.5" center to center. if anything else comes to mind let me know...thanks for the info!

I’m looking for a fiberglass rooftop wind deflector as shown in the uploaded pics...is this universal style still available/produced?? If so, who makes it? I’ve not been able to locate one like it.

Since Huskidrive is the topic, maybe someone can give me a few pointers on an issue... Gotta ‘74 with the NHCT-270 and 5 spd Huskidrive, Eaton 2 speed air shifted rear diffs, 5.05/3.70 ratios. In 1-5 (low) the speedo is accurate, but when the rear is shifted to hi in 5th (Cruise) the speedo is always about 15 mph slower than actual speed. Would a ratio adapter solve this issue? I’m not sure how it is reading properly in low but incorrectly when I’m high. How does the speedo actually read the road speed in both low/high?

That's a good habit to get into, especially when looking at trucks that have been sitting a while. I will definitely keep that in mind from now on before starting anything that's been sitting a while.

Thanks for the info. ESI = extended service interval, correct? The oil pan does appear larger than normal so that makes sense. Is the governor problem common when they’ve been sitting a while?

Hi everybody. I have been looking at a 76 R686 that's for sale and there is a discrepancy in the type of engine it has. The seller told me it isn't the original engine, it's a Mack rebuild that was installed new about 20 years ago. On the tag behind the fuel pump it only says "T676" (not ENDT), and on the ridge on the housing in front of the fuel inj pump (where it would normally say the engine type), it looks like there are some numbers stamped on the ridge but I don't think they were stamped deep enough as they've nearly disappeared and are illegible. The 3 oil filters make it look like an EM6, but I'm thrown off by the "T676" on the ID tag. I'm attaching two pics to this posting... Also, it sat (inside) for over 5 years without being started/driven. The engine itself runs good but the owner tells me there's an intermittent problem. He says every so often, it will start up right away but will rev up significantly. He says it doesn't rev high enough to seem like it's running away, but if the engine stop is pulled out it doesn't shut down the engine...he dumps it in gear to get it to stall. He said that he took the little cover plate off the governor and soaked the insides down with WD40 and worked the control levers back and forth until the freed up (seemingly). Could it just be the governor was sticking from sitting for so long, or does it sound like something more serious - like maybe the plungers in the fuel inj pump? Just wanting to get some input on that. He told me that he started it/shut it down and restarted it about 20 times to see if the problem would come back, but it never did reoccur.