RobM626

I would like to have a fix more than anyone... in the meantime my mechanic hasn’t checked out any of the ideas you guys gave me BC they have been busy working on my 2012 mack... they told me “just drive the truck, it’s at 95%” its really sickening to me that that’s the reply I get. Especially since Everytime I keep driving the truck I have to end up replacing something else. I think he really doesn’t want to drop the tranny again to check the flywheel/ bell housing and flywheel balance. I’m gonna keep pushing though... he said he definitely will check the crank endplay and runout . Hopefully today... i wish I could find a better mechanic around here. The sad part is, when it comes to every other truck except this one they actually do a very good job. They’re one of the only shops in the area that do a shit ton of in-house work... I guess this all goes back to my luck, or lack of luck... if it was raining pussies I would get hit with the only cock.

Thank you. Do you think 400 hours is too much to run oil on an e7?

What’s up guys ? I just went to mack dealer and picked up an oil change kit . Inside the kit there’s the 2 full flow filters and a centrifugal filter/rotor kit. I never got the kit before and they never gave me the third filter anytime I picked up filters in the past. Does my truck use that filter? It’s a 2000 etech 350. I have the two full flow filters on the driver side and there’s another canister to the right of them with a 1” hose on the bottom of it and a 1/4” hose on the top going to the firewall

Out of curiosity how would the housing get out of round or flatness if it was never touched ?

I’ll ask the mechanic tomorrow

Etech. Does it while parked

I just brought my 2012 mack to the shop today and they’re saying I need a new dpf, NOx sensor and I’m sure a few more things... the dash looks like a Christmas tree .... calls for 3 regens a day. It’s ridiculous what the industry has come to ... between the choking regulations of the road and the horrible technology on these trucks, it makes it almost impossible for small businesses to survive

Inside half of the paddles I believe... I’m bringing truck in tomorrow and they are going to check the crank endplay and runout.... he assured me the flywheel was in spec but I’m going to make him put the dial on that too. Could the flywheel be bad even the there’s no run out? the mechanic seems to think my thrust bearings could be bad. I’m praying that’s not the case BC I had an inframe done like 3 years ago and I really really don’t want to keep throwing all this money into a 2000 truck

The truck has been in a shop for a total of 14 weeks the past year and a half.... Everytime they told me what they thought was wrong I said change it without hesitation .ive changed so many parts that weren’t the problem. I just wanted my truck fixed... I’m at the point where I don’t even know if it’s worth keep putting Mo eye in this old truck... the only reason I haven’t bought a new one yet is because this emissions crap is a whole another headache

Thanks for the replies guys ... gonna run this stuff by the mechanic... I don’t know how far it will get me ,we’ll see

Got ya...sorry for all the questions I’m not a mechanic... but how can you change driveline angles if it’s a spring suspension? Worn springs? Bad torque arms?

I haven’t been to the dealer since they put the first of the 3 clutches in... another shop put the last clutch. Transmission and pto and injectors... the reason I asked if I should replace the flywheel is BC you said it has to be sent out to check for balance... can you correct an unbalanced flywheel?

The driveshaft seems to be ok . And I have the vibration even with the truck not moving in neutral. I changed the yoke on the rear of tranny and a couple of u joints when the tranny was replaced .

I gave up with the dealer ... Everytime I went there I walked out with a bill that was insane and every symptom I gave them went unlooked... I wish I had some of those brilliant men in my area because my local dealer is terrible

I highly doubt they did.... I’ve been pulling my hair out with with this truck. Tranny has been dropped 4 times in last year ... everything that I have been telling them goes in one ear and out the other .... I just don’t see how 3 clutches could go bad in a year like this... all of them had uneven wear... the clutch that is currently in the truck is 2 weeks old and is starting to feel the same way the previous ones did. Another flywheel question . Do you think that would cause the engine to stuffer a little when Rpm’s going back down after releasing throttle? Everytime I press and release the throttle and rpm’s for below 800 there’s a slight studder 2-3 times until it returns to idle

Like you mentioned use a dumbie input shaft and pilot bearing on a vice?

That’s exactly what I told the mechanic yesterday... I asked about the flywheel and asked if they checked the run out with a dial indicator. He doesn’t seem to think so but I really do. He mentioned to me that maybe I have some endplay on my crankshaft but what I can’t figure out is why they wouldn’t check that when replacing the harmonic balancer... if my flywheel is the culprit do I have to replace the clutch again? And is there a way to check if the flywheel is out of balance?

Hello I’m new on this forum but have been reading it for a couple years. i have a 2000 mack rd dump with an e7-350. Over the past year and a half have been chasing a vibration that no one can get right. Vibration is coming from clutch area and gets really bad around 1100rpm.... I replaced the clutch 3 times . Every clutch was worn prematurely with uneven wear on the facing. I changed the transmission, pto, vibration damper, motor mounts. Also did a camshaft job, 6 injectors and an oil pump. Everytime I put the new clutch in, I leave the shop and it’s great for a couple days then slowly but surely it comes back... I hear the clutch chattering constantly. If I put it in gear and let it coast it feels like a slight grab and slip... while driving if you press and release the throttle you feeling like there’s slack in the driveline... I’m up to 35k $ in repair bills and the truck still isn’t running right... Any ideas?