RobM626

I went to a different agent yesterday. One that works with multiple carriers and he ran numbers for me all over with a few places and then was able to make changes on my policy that got me down to 24,000 a year for 2 trucks with 1 million dollar coverage. So I got a $16,000 a year savings. I’m happy for that. A few other companies that he ran numbers with were actually higher so I’m hoping the longer we’re in business it will go down some. The agent told us that some insurance companies don’t like to underwrite policies for businesses younger than 1-3 years. So we will see what happens. Thanks for suggestions I will check those out as well

Thank you for the input... I don’t know why my partner chose progressive, with my experience the bigger auto insurers weren’t always the best option when it comes to truck/commercial. I have some phone calls to make

I’m gonna check them out. I’ve had a mess lately with these new trucks. They’re volumetric mixers and the carry the materials to mix concrete on site but they were classified as concrete mixer on registration so we’re paying over 40,000 a year for 2 trucks. It’s insane. I just changed registration to say “dump” because it’s only carrying material. Hopefully that will change my rate but I still want to shop around because I think progressive is still going to be higher than other companies more dedicated to trucking

Hey guys I’m shopping around for truck insurance and was wondering what companies you guys use? Or what reputable companies can I look at for quotes. Any providers that are good to do business with ? Any that I should stay away from? Started a new company and we’re getting raped right now. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

The last overweights I got were like 9-10000 dollars. In nyc the use bridge formula. Overweight on tandem, overweight on front axle, overweight on wheelbase, overweight on registration. And they don’t let you use dropaxle during scaling. Outside of nyc I can carry 71,000lbs. Once I’m in the 5 boros I can only carry 54,000. The truck empty weighs about 31,000. So only able to carry 23,000 legally. That’s like a half load. It’s insane. The tickets are enough to put someone out of business. We give the tickets to a lawyer and he gets them knocked down, so that helps a lot but then you still gottta pay the lawyer.

The chop starts around 900 when descending. And smoothed out once it returns to idle . The vibration I have is throughout the rpm range I feel it the most around 1000-1100. It’s like a pulse. You can hear/feel it traveling through the transmission too. It’s like Like a wobble . The dash does not shake as bad as it used to since I changed pto, but the mirrors are hard to see clearly out of because of the vibration. the truck does have 30,509 hours . Without a doubt that truck worked. But like I said before, the way it’s behaving isn’t normal. I know things get old and can’t be New forever. But having to replace the clutch so many times I’m such a short time and basically everything else connected in that area. Something just isn’t right down there. I’m determined to get to the bottom of it. After you guys asked me those questions if I was sure it wasn’t normal harmonics I got In a few other RD’s that are similar age and not nearly in the condition of mine and they don’t sound and feel like mine does. That truck used to be a pleasure to drive. Now I get out at the end of the day and I need a bottle of Advil from my head pulsating lol

I don’t understand why these files won’t play

8721BA9D-E918-4BB6-905C-3AB844CD0F81.mp4

5678CFF4-8D36-4731-9CB7-286E69248321.MOV in trying to convert to different file type but for some reason the converted file is bigger and won’t let me upload

Ok gonna download one of the converters thanks

Will do... I actually tried doing that the first week I made a post but the video must have been too long... I’m gonna try to cut down on the size and hopefully It will work... thanks im gonna try to get truck warm tomorrow and record... if not definitely Monday i tried viewing your your videos on that thread and they would not view. I’m gonna see how to make them fit... worst case I will message them to you guys... are there size limitations for sending videos?

I’m gonna see if I can find the bulletin. It sounds exactly like it’s wobbling but I can’t visually make out if it’s wobbling or if that’s just the way the pressure plate looks turning. I’m gonna take a peak under another truck tomorrow and try to compare

The codes that are coming up on computer are those egr and mass air flow codes. I still haven’t had a chance to leave truck at mack to hear what they have to say about possibly reflashing ecu. And as far as blink codes go I had a 2-3 (intake air temperature sensor) so I replaced that. And I have a 5-5 (electronic malfunction lamp) that comes on 5 times a day but I don’t know what that even means. I thought the lighting symbol was the electronic malfunction lamp. i feel like the engine studder is somehow related to the vibration that’s why I thought maybe if the flywheel wasn’t spinning smooth it was throw off the sensor. The weird thing is it only does it when engine warms up. When the engine is cold like the first 15-20 mins it’s running it doesn’t do it. I got a lot of “weird things” with this truck as you can tell by now

Haha. That would be something huh? I would be so happy if the fix was a 3 digit number. All of my bills were either 4 or 5 digit numbers

I I believe it was the inside... the last time I saw it was July but I’m pretty sure it was inside

I just replaced both sensors last week... the one near flywheel had a ton of metal shavings on it. Reason I’m asking is if the flywheel wasn’t running smooth would it throw off the reading of the sensor and make the motor stumble a little when returning to idle? When the rpm gets to like 900 it studders like 3 times before reaching idle.

Gotchya

On the etech Does the crank position sensor get its reading from the 2 notches on the flywheel?

I agree... I asked for it to be replaced twice . I guess they thought they knew better than me

Another note on the flywheel. When I had the second clutch put it they put like a spacer which looked like a second clutch brake. I personally never saw that before and wondered about it. Why would you need to put that spacer if the flywheel was in spec? That makes me think too much material was taken off the flywheel. Then the next mechanic took the spacer out and didn’t use one. He told me it was in spec... I don’t know who to believe anymore

Flywheel was resurfaced like 3-4 times in the past year and a half. We have had the truck since new ... I’m sure it was resurfaced a couple more times in the 16 years before that.. I told every mechanic maybe I should change the flywheel they kept saying I can just resurface it it’s fine... now to really check this out I’m gonna have to go to another shop and pay the $1500 or so to have them drop the tranny and who knows whatever else. Then Everytime I go to a different shop they always find something else wrong that the shop before did and I end up paying for those mistakes. It seems like Everytime I go to a new shop they’re so quick to point out other people’s mistakes but they can never live up to their own.

When I put the 2nd clutch in I replaced the input shaft and input shaft bearing. The shaft had no damage but I replaced it anyway. The bearing may have been on its way out that’s why I replaced it with the updated new type of bearing... then when I did the tranny a couple months ago that was a new input shaft and bearing again. Problem still there

I think I’m going to have to find a new shop because I really don’t think he’s going to even do all that for me anymore. IT really pisses me off that I paid all this money to three shops and the problem persists. Now I’m gonna have to pay for stuff all over again. And who knows if the problem will be solved.

I don’t have any pictures but when the clutch was showed to me, if you look at the friction pads you would see that only 40-50% of the pad had wear on it and the rest of the pad still looked new. Then the mechanic told me I should be able to slide a feeler gauge between the friction plates and intermediate plate and there was a zero gap. Now I don’t really know the real specifics of this because it has been a learning experience for me but I would think the way that the pads aren’t getting full surface contact would mean something is off balance or off alignment. I don’t know.

Hey guys sorry was out cleaning snow for past couple days. I’m gonna have the clutch unbolted and check again. I did that about 5 months ago and listened to the motor and me and the mechanic both agreed the vibration must be coming from the clutch/transmission . That’s why I installed the 3rd clutch and then after that the transmission. Is it possible that if the flywheel is the culprit you won’t really feel the vibration as bad if the clutch is not bolted to it? And then once the clutch is attached I start to hear/feel the vibration and chatter from the clutch which ends up messing up the clutch.