smalls111184

Ok thanks for the info, yeah I’m getting a complete carrier from Mack. This is my first experience having one of these fail. I definitely don’t want it to fail prematurely because of my ignorance.

I lost the gears in my back carrier in my superliner. I got it pulled out and the new ordered, I need to pull the yoke. I’ve heard I need to mark the bolt and count the turns when I take it off so I can put it back on the same. I’ve also read to torque the bolt to a certain amount to set the preload. Which way is right?

i finished painting my truck, went to put my new lights on and they were all working, I shut them off and when I turned them off i had lost my outside clearance lights. I have power to the breaker and the switch. If I jump across the switch there is no change. where does the wire go from the switch, does it go right up the winshield post and to the lights or is there another place I can check for power first?

I don’t know what you call the female part the cab marker light screws thread into, to hold the lights onto the cab. They are like a round insert or button that that have a female thread in them, two per light. I had trouble getting the lights off because they were spinning. Are they supposed to spin or should I tack them to the cab?

I reframed mine from the cab back last year. We got the rails from pg Adams, they however are not able to duplicate from the cab forward due to the complexity of the rail. I tried getting new ones from Mack, as I remember there was a good part number for them, but there was no response from Mack as to availability. So I eventually figured that meant no

My parts guy could find the part and part # but no price or availability info (available or nla) he was going to look into it more, but i haven't heard back so I'm not too hopeful

The one shop is Watson diesel in canton pa, yes they were only going to replace the rails from the cab back and the rails would be sourced from pg Adams in new england

So the current truck I have has basically no rust on the cab, the doors have some surface rust spots smaller than a dime, the cab does leak through a light I believe, I've been going to change them. I put a reman steering box on two years ago, all new rear drums, reman injectors, new clutch flywheel rear main seal and a used take out transmission last year. So the rest of the truck is pretty sound, other than miscellaneous things that go bad like wires that break and I have to run new ones, the hood needs some love, the window regulators aren't the best, the box floor needs some love etc. trucking is not my primary business, I do residential excavating. I do haul a lot of my own material but I do also just have someone else haul it in if I need a lot, so yes a tri axle would be more efficient but I make more money running equipment so if it's not a deal breaker to sub out trucking now and then. I do however use it as a site truck a lot. If I were to upgrade it'd only be to a late 90's-early 2000 rd. I can't justify a granite even though I'd love to have one. I guess where I'm getting hung up is putting 10k or so into a truck I paid 17k for 7 years ago

Hey guys, I need to pick your brain for a minute. My truck is a 88 rw 613 tandem dump and the frame is getting pretty thin so I'm at the point of either replacing the frame from the cab back or upgrading to a newer tri axle. I've gotten two rough quotes both in the ten thousand range to replace the rails. I love mack trucks and i feel a duty to preserve this one, but this is how i feed my family so I'm trying to think with my head and not my heart. so my question is what would you guys do? thanks darren

the problem with trucks around here and north is the frame rails, I currently have a superliner with shaky rails, i don't want to head right back down that road

lol, sorry, 16-17' long with lowerish sides (need to be able to load it with my skid steer) prefer a steel box but i would consider aluminum, on camel back, 300 or more motor, thats a sharp brockway, but it has the wrong dog on the hood for me, sorry

looking for a decent tri axle dump under 30k i'm in north east pa and would like to find one around here or within a few hours south of here

i just realized i posted this ad three times, sorry, lol my internet was being screwy and I really wanted someone on here to save me from buying that truck

no connection, says he wants 900 or he's scraping it on friday https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1566356636765804?surface=product_details

no connection, says he wants 900 or he's scraping it on friday https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1566356636765804?surface=product_details

no connection, says he wants 900 or he's scraping it on friday https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1566356636765804?surface=product_details

I had a guy replace the injectors in my e6 4valve two weeks ago with reman injectors from d&w. He couldn't get # 2, 3, and 4 to seal back up to the lines, so I put all new lines on the motor between the injection pump and the head. While i was at it i took the plugs out of the head that hold the injectors down and tightend the injector lines into the head first thinking maybe it would help the lines mate up with the cup in the injectors. I still have #2 and #3 leaking back through the head and out around the injector line. I really can't tighten down the lines into the heads any more than i already have. Is there a trick to getting the nozzle of the injector line to mate up with the cup in the injector? or did I just get some bad injectors? thanks for your help, you guys have bailed me out before I'm hoping you can again darren

no connection http://allentown.craigslist.org/hvo/5641564068.html

sorry for the slow response, I called mack today and got my part # and called TRW with it, maybe the guy i dealt with was having a bad monday because my # was obsolete and i don't think he could hang up the phone fast enough so I didn't get to ask about an updated part. I then called Camerota truck parts in scranton, they had one in Connecticut and it will be in scranton tomorrow morning for me to pick up. thanks for you help guys when i kept hearing it's obsolete i was starting to wonder if i was better off selling the truck

I haven't been able to make any phone calls the last two days because the job I'm on doesn't have cell service

thanks guys, i'll clean the steering box off tomorrow and see what numbers are on it. So I'm going to show my ignorance, what is a 20QC part number? I'm pretty sure it's a 12000 pound axle, i'll see if it says on the door, it only has the left side steering box.

I talked to Mack today about a new steering box for my 88 superliner and they can't get one. They want to send mine to Ohio to be rebuilt and say it will take a week. I'm not real thrilled to have the truck down that long and get nervous about parts being lost in shipping. I realize Mack is looking for the box for my trucks vin and have no way of knowing if a different box would work. Do you guys know of a part# that would substitute or an aftermarket vendor that might have one. It's an 88 rw 613 with a single steering box in the frame last six of the vin are 004349 thanks darren

it was rough to say the least. I looked at it a few weeks ago, all the metal work needed a lot of love, lots of rust, no cab protector on the body so the top of the back of the cab was pretty beat in. 673 non turbo, 10 speed duplex. Being as rare as they are I didn't know what i would have done to replace the body parts so I left it there.

no connection http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/hvo/5353785380.html

I have a friend who is trying to sell me a RW613 tri axle dump, it needs the outer frame rail replaced from the cab back due to rust but it has a fresh 350. It has 44's in the back but the front still looks original so 14000 at best? The frame is only doubled to the back of the cab. Do you guys think a 613 is heavy enough for dump use, i hate to buy something thats going to be a constant problem. thanks for your input darren