Nor'Easter

Wheelbases in the 3 LT/LTL brochures I have total 16 variants from 167" to 245". Some day I'll put them brochures into pdf form.

Rogers still makes some nice looking fixed neck rear loading equipment trailers. Doesn't seem to be a very popular thing nowadays.

I was there a week ago. Watched a large firetruck hit the torch. And a really clean 90s Land Rover roll in to be sold as scrap.

The A20H I restored felt like 8-10,000 on my gooseneck. H is heavy spec though, had majority double frame and spoke wheels.

I have a PT pump here on an NH220, issue being the idle adjustment does nothing. Currently the throttle limit screws keep it going. Low idle cold and high idle warm. It is original to the truck and who knows the history, I'd like to have it gone through. Looking for someone who knows them well, I.E. not a guy with a how-to manual and gasket kits. Located in Maine, will travel to NH, VT, MA to shake hands if possible. Or can ship. Thank you.

Just love the older Kubotas, I'd like to own some of the early ones and keep them inside. I have a 1993 my grandfather bought new, works perfectly.

Thanks all, what a warm welcome. I do not recall the serial number unfortunately. I can ask the owner. I made the interior from scratch using upholstery cardboard and marine vinyl, same way any upholsterer would. If the fenders weren't black, I would've pushed for a dark brown leather. The factory Fuller trans is an SAE3 pattern, pop on ebay and you'll fine industry standard flywheel housings to mate an SAE3 to the 6BT. Just as your 855s have an SAE1 or 2. Everything is made to adapt thanks to the engineers back in the day. The clutch again is just an SAE unit but with a custom disk center to match the input. It was built by South Bend Clutch. The starter is a 12V automotive type (non-industrial) with a machined adapter to correct the gear mesh to the flywheel ring gear. The gauges are original. Elbow grease on the chrome. Everything works except the ammeter (using an alternator) and the speedometer reduction unit is stripped. If anyone knows of a good rebuilder please let me know, it's the only thing on this truck that isn't "done". An adapter was machined to fit the original water temp tip into the Cummins block. Same for oil pressure. A 12V universal sender is in the gas tank (whole truck is 12V).

Good Evening, I am pretty new on here but thought everyone would like to see a condensed view of my most recent restoration. This was done for a family I used to work for and I couldn't have asked for a better "client". I do not do this full time nor do I think I'd want to, but it sure is fun. This truck has spent it's entire life in Maine, being used as a marine supply truck, farm truck, fire department rig of some sort and now back to a "farm truck". While most of it is nice and shiny we decided to keep all the original chrome and touch up the stainless and aluminum. At owners request it received a mechanical B mated to the original Fuller 5 speed w/PTO. In addition to shows the truck is now used to haul hay one a salt water farm and tend to lighter tasks at the family's timber frame company. Besides glass cutting, the entire truck was completed as a single man crew in a three car garage, a testament to being stubborn and working with what space you've got left.

It has been a while but we ended up finding a source. Bub Warren in Amarillo owns Diamond T Rubber Co. and mainly supplies remfg rubber products for (you guessed it) Diamond T's. He has dies for A model windshield gasket and set us enough for 3 trucks. If was a difficult install but once done the fit was perfect.

I pulled the outer bearings and filled the hubs, and put another 1-1/2 in the center through the vent. Should be 8-1/2 qts now.

Note that the picture of the square plug on passenger side is upside down. It is currently filled to that level, and is atleast 2-3" below axle centerline. It took 7 quarts +/-.

Have not found a reasonably located plug. One is well below the axle centerline on passenger side, which took 7qts. The next is on top of pinion bearing housing (near U joint flange) which would fill well above axle centerline. ID tag states Timken Detroit Axle Co, and only gives fluid spec, not capacity. I am not against just using grease, but there are proper opening to allow center section to overflow into tubes and then into hubs, but it would take a lot of fluid. Each tube itself could hold 2qts. Sorry about photos, you can thank Steve Jobs for his upside down photo algorithms.

Yes it's a two speed. 7qts might reach the lower 1/4 of the ring gear. I can fill it through the breather port, just hate to pour more in without knowing what the actual fill is.

Replacing oil in Timken 5800 rear end. Around 7 qts. through breather got me to the 1" fill plug on the forward housing, passenger side. This level is no where near the axle centerline, and I'm concerned about getting oil up and out to the hubs during operation. Is it standard to also fill the hubs from the outside before setting the outer bearing?

Hi all, thanks for allowing me to join the board. I am at the very tail end of a two year restoration on a '51 A20H and alas, have lost the windshield gasket. I still have the J channel that sits on the aluminum frame, but it has sections missing and is rock hard. I would prefer to use the original glass, and am on the hunt for appropriate weatherstripping. Has anyone had any luck with this task? Thank you, Michael