JoeH

Claimed by @PMC, if anyone wants 2nd in line in case he falls through just let me know.

I believe I have the risers for the valve covers as well as the offset piece for the tip turbine.

I have a set of Jake brakes for a 1980 endt676 2 valve head engine. Any interest? Located in southeastern PA.

Keep your eye out for an RD688ST. This will be a thing from a 350 to a 460 HP truck, will have lots of gears to match the engine, it'll be pre emissions because they ended production in 2002 or so. An RD690ST will have that 300hp Maxidyne setup, with 5 to 7 gears. Maxidynes are fantastic. They're truly impressive engines for what they are. The mechanical E7 engine is probably the best engine you can have durability-wise. E-techs are good too, but the EUP fuel system can do a fair amount of damage when they fail. I caught mine last year just in time to save my camshaft.

Mack E7 engine is a 12 liter engine so it's small relative to the bigger CAT and Cummins engines. If you have lots of hills this will be worth consideration.

On camelback, wheelbase and whether the rear cab mounts are rigid or air bags makes a difference in ride quality. Bobtailing with no trailer is always sketchy, regardless of suspension. Rear end can bounce off the road and shift sideways a few inches or so. Weight rating of the camelback makes a big difference. If your MH is a tractor then it likely has 38k springs which shouldn't be too bad. 44k or 55k springs get much more brick-like. Camelback suspension is fantastic off-road, almost nothing better. Massive articulation over uneven surfaces while keeping full weight distribution on each wheel. Air ride can't compete there. Usually a 5 speed transmission is bolted to an EM7 which is a Maxidyne fuel map. Massive power and, 90%+ torque from 1000rpms up to the governor. This is normally a 300hp engine, if you have a 350hp that transmission is going to suck without more gears if you change the rear ratios.

All the Mack's I've owned from 1974 to 2003 all want 15w40. PS pumps on all my trucks are mounted on the back of the air compressor or on the timing cover. If seals blow out on the PS pump you get PS fluid in your engine, so you should be running 15w40.

Being tied into the backside of the compressor, if you blow the seals on your power steering pump and now have power steering fluid pumping into your engine, I think you'd prefer it to be 15w40 instead of ATF. Your car's power steering system is entirely disconnected from your engine apart from brackets and belts, so they'll use what they want. Imagine the warranty claim if you blew your engine and Mack found it contaminated with power steering or fluid ATF that you had in there instead of 15w40.

I think a shotgun is in order...

Text me unobstructed pictures of both sides of the engine and I'll post them for you. Is there no tag on the top of one of the valve covers? If it's been painted you might be able to peel the paint off? Where did you get the motor from? Is there a listing you can post that would have info on it? Even knowing what chassis model it came from would tell us what model engine it is.

Saw this parody yesterday, it was pretty good. I always wondered who that cocaine belonged to...

Text them to the cell number I PMed you the other day, I'll post them for you. Sometimes I have to crop the picture a little to make it work.

I'm guessing the water pump variant is for a particular chassis like an LE or MR, something where engine position to radiator shroud is different from typical.

AI is CCRS. AI started in 2003, so this truck started life with an AI.

Reread most of your OP. It sounds like the mechanics near you don't know Mack engines at all. You can swap the water pump region setup from your old motor to the new one if they're different. I'll have to look at my ASET AI and ETECH engines to see what kind of water pump setup they use. I'm hoping you can find the new engine model on the tag on the valve cover.