JoeH

I do believe the ami-370 is a great base to build the delete off of! Can you check his software update level? Step 12b I think is the critical update for the vecu if I recall... Start with a boost gauge that is most important to see if you're even hitting fuel boost. Post pictures of your exhaust manifold on the truck. Should be able to see pretty quick if it has the restrictive manifold. A top view I think is most helpful. The whole EGR delete can be done by swapping the exhaust manifold, turbo, and exhaust pipe.

I think there was some political animosity that led to a series of people getting sent down the road. Sad, he was an absolute wealth of knowledge iirc.

12:00 noon on Monday can't come soon enough...

I've been playing with Grok, Elon Musk's ai on X. Anyone else doing similar? Here's my latest query: (good to know Grok is not a doctor...) Why does my 2003 Mack ai350 with an Allison hd4560 trigger blink code 4-1 when the the truck is in gear and not moving while the engine is running the PTO at 900 rpms? Grok is not a doctor; please consult a medical professional. Don't share your Personally Identifiable Information. Blink code 4-1 on a Mack AI350 with an Allison HD4560 transmission generally indicates an issue with the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - specifically, that the data from this sensor is erratic, intermittent, or incorrect. Here are some reasons why you might be seeing this code under the conditions you describe: VSS Signal Mismatch: When the truck is in gear but not moving, the VSS should ideally report zero speed. If the PTO (Power Take-Off) is engaged and the engine is running at 900 RPMs, there might be some mechanical or electrical interference causing the VSS to send a signal that the vehicle is moving or fluctuating in speed when it's actually stationary. This could be due to: Sensor failure or wear: Over time, VSS can degrade, leading to incorrect readings. Vibration or mechanical movement: The PTO operation might cause slight movements or vibrations in the transmission or driveshaft which could be misinterpreted by the VSS. Electrical Noise or Interference: The operation of the PTO might generate electrical noise or interference which could affect the VSS signal. Electrical components near the VSS, like wiring harnesses or other sensors, might be causing this interference, especially when the PTO is operational at high RPMs. Wiring Issues: Check for any loose connections, corroded terminals, or damaged wiring between the VSS and the ECM (Engine Control Module) or the transmission control module. The vibration from the PTO could exacerbate any existing wiring issues. Incorrect Sensor Type or Calibration: If the VSS or any component of the speed sensor system was replaced with an incorrect type or not calibrated properly, this could lead to erratic readings. Transmission or Driveline Issues: Although less common, there could be issues within the transmission or driveline that are mechanically causing the sensor to read movement when there is none. This would be more complex and might involve internal transmission components or bearings. Troubleshooting Steps: Inspect the VSS: Check for physical damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Ensure it's the correct part for your truck and transmission combination. Check Wiring: Look for any signs of wear or damage, especially near areas where movement or vibration could cause issues. Use a multimeter to check for continuity and proper signal when the truck is in the described condition. Software or Calibration: If possible, check if the ECM or transmission control module software is up to date. Sometimes, recalibrating or resetting the sensor through diagnostic tools can resolve erratic readings. Run Diagnostics: Use a Mack diagnostic tool or consult the service manual for specific diagnostic procedures related to code 4-1. This might involve checking sensor outputs under controlled conditions or logging data to see exactly when and how the sensor is giving erroneous readings. Mechanical Inspection: If the above steps don't resolve the issue, consider a mechanical check of the transmission and driveline components, especially if the truck has high mileage or has undergone previous repairs. Remember, for accurate diagnosis, referring to the exact service manual for your truck's year, make, and model is crucial, as diagnostics can vary based on specific vehicle configurations. VSS sensor types Allison transmission codes more troubleshooting steps

What engine codes do you have? As Joey said, cruise off, press the accel/decel rocker down and then count the 2 digit code. Repeat this until you have pulled all codes out. (All codes are pulled when it starts repeating itself). You could have some legitimate issues. Cracked charge air cooler, busted springs on EUP fuel injection pumps, etc. Also what is the engine model? AI-300? AI-350? AMI-300? You don't have the worst engine, the AC-series is the worst. The Granite has an AI-series engine. You can delete the EGR on the AI engines. AC you're F'd. The thread I posted discusses the modifications to delete the AI's EGR. The AMI engines are Maxidyne fuel mapped AI engines. Wide powerband. If yours is gutless below 1300 rpms then chances are you don't have an AMI. If this were my truck the first thing I would do is put a pyrometer and a boost gauge on. Biggest indicators of performance health on your truck. If EGR is too hot and boost is low then you have air intake system issues.

Read this thread in its entirety. It explains what you are driving.

Not sure what the date was on this quote, but if it was in the last week or so then he's right! The Congress elected in November was sworn in on January 3rd! So Biden is effectively hamstrung, all he can do now is executive orders, which Trump can undo on day 1 with an executive order.

Some consideration should be given for circuit breaker protection since whatever circuit you're back feeding into would now be protected by the breaker on the generator, and I'd imagine the rest of the back feed into the house has to go through the panel breaker. I've never had to use my dad's setup, so idk if you need to shut off the Main Breaker so you aren't bleeding power out to your neighbors, lol...

My dad made an extension cord with 2 male ends. Portable gas powered generator you can plug it into your house and back feed power in to run your heat and your fridge and other minimal draw items.

MR's have a massive radiator, he won't have cooling issues. Also he's going to be hogging through fields at low speed high rpm. I think there's a 370A hp rating for the automatics. Not sure the auto can hold 400hp. Sounds like you have an early ETECH, I know on the AI Tech's there's an AMI-370, that's probably the best. It's a 370 hp maxidyne fuel map instead of a 400. Maxidynes have a nice wide powerband.

I bet it's leaking on the water manifold hose (left side). There's a hose that bridges the manifold from one head to the manifold on the other head. It can be hard to keep this tight. Likely in the colder temps the metal is shrinking. One of our trucks has done this. No leaks in the summer, then minor weeping in the winter.

At some point you gotta just get out the sawzall and just make it a convertible...

My siblings and I grew up taking turns riding in the truck every fall with my dad to go get coal from South Tamaqua Coal Pockets (I think that was the business name) on Rte 309. Now I own the house I grew up in and my kids get to rotate through every fall to the same plant, but now it's "Keystone Anthracite". It's a lot more work to burn coal, but it's a lot cheaper than oil and you can't ignore the memories and hard work the kids will grow up knowing.

South Tamaqua is where I buy my coal every fall.

Would be strange, the granite cab is much wider than the R cab.