JoeH

You'd need an overflow tank I believe.

Does that radiator pass a pressure test?

If you swap EUPs around do the faults stay with the EUPs or the cylinder locations?

Cracked nozzles not atomizing fuel? Blink codes I can understand, these MID codes are jargon to me. Sounds like 2 EUPs are not getting proper signal, so either bad wiring or bad EUPs?

That's the Heinz I was looking for

@heinz57 if Heinz knows how to look up the old VIN's he may be able to help you out. I don't think cam is available from Mack anymore. Also, you should be able to send your camshaft to Berry Cams, they should be able to repair your damaged lobe. http://www.berrycammn.com/ 320-395-2377 I have never used them, but it's worth a call.

I have one of those legacy seats in my 95 RD688. Great seat, way better than the bostroms in the other trucks. Have to take the left armrest off as it interferes with seatbelt, and after leaning on the right armrest for 6 years we had to take that one off as it finally deformed enough that it started catching the "lo lo" switch on our 8LL gear shifter when going from 1st to 2nd. Other than that it is a great seat!

That sounds like a bit more of a miss than my truck's flutter. Almost sounds like a knock? But I will admit to not having hardly any experience with engine knocks/misses, and my phone has crappy speaker audio.

I believe it's a Pressure Regulator on the fuel return. Maintains fuel supply pressure in the block gallery to keep fuel pressure adequately supplied to the EUPs. Probably a few different air compressor brands that are interchangeable. If it's operating well and the truck's air system maintains air pressure safely then run it.

Was it a stutter or a flutter? Governor springs can cause the engine to flutter at midrange RPMs. My front end loader has been doing it a lot lately, revved up coasting at minimal load the RPMs flutter. My 95 e7-350 (fully mechanical) will do a similar flutter in that 1300 + or - range coasting minimal load every so often. Truck runs great otherwise. Maybe the truck you looked at is doing the same thing mine does or maybe it could use a fuel filter.

Minor point to make on this: as the power steering pump on these is mounted directly to the engine, either bolted to the timing cover or bolted onto the back of the air compressor, the reason for the 15w40 is incase the power steering pump seal fails it doesn't blow ATF into your engine. As a dealer employee I bet you could imagine the warranty headache this would cause if the engine seals failed because ATF got in there from a bum vendor add-on.

Need more people like this in Congress. Trouble with making her VP, some lefty tart is going to fill her role in Congress.

Scoring it you more or less guarantee it's going to break, unless your driver is smooth. But if you have a problematic driver like my brothers seemed to be you gotta do what you have to do...

Emergency knob is probably the right spot for the switch. It should kick the lights on in an emergency braking event. Your truck was set up for a trailer so you have 2 or 3 knobs, whereas mine had always been a straight truck til we slapped a 5th wheel on it as a yard truck for retirement. We ripped the lift axle out from under the truck and repurposed the "down" switch through a tractor protection valve to run the trailer airlines.

1980 dm686sx Low air buzzer is one of these 2^^ I think this one is Service brake lights^^^ T'd into the parking brake knob there's the parking brake light switch.^^^

Don't think so, buzzer is gonna be an aqua green thing in the glove box.

You just score a ring around the axle shaft near the hub, and now if it breaks it's guaranteed to break where you scored it. If it breaks deep inside, you have to pull both axles if it's gonna get towed so you don't spin the differential around and pick chunks up and eat a rear. Just a lot cheaper and faster repair to have the break at the hub.

It creates a weak spot out by the hub, so they break there instead of breaking all the way in. A lot easier to replace an axle broken at the hub than deep inside.

I'm sorry to hear about your dad's diagnosis. Sometimes life hits hard and all at once.

Haven't heard from you in a bit, how are you making out?

I'd expect there's enough room between the differential and the axle tubes that the bits of axle would fall into the oil, but it's been a very long time since I've had a differential out of one of these.

My one brother managed to break an axle on our dm686SX!!! Those shafts are thick!! He was starting out on a hill, and decided he would use the parking brake to hold the truck while he got the clutch ready. Only he misjudged, the parking brake takes about 5 seconds to release on ths truck. He went all in on trying to go and.... Roadside repair.

Not sure how you're gonna get the splined piece out of the differential without pulling it... That's a pain.

Depends where it broke. Out at the hub or in at the differential? If it broke by the hub you should be fine to pull the pieces and shove a new axle in. Note the differential sits off to the right on Camelback suspension so the axle shafts are different lengths left vs right. Also the spline count and axle thickness can vary depending on your specs, so I'd just go to the dealer for one most likely. My dad used to score the axleshafts a little out by the hub. Then my older brothers moved on to other careers and now we don't have to score our axles anymore.

2002 has the Left Side Redesign, (started in 2001) the EECU is on the intake manifold on driver side of engine. VECU is on the passenger seat kick panel, it's common for the windshield seal to fail on R models and let water in to cause VECU issues. How are your batteries? What does the voltage do when you crank? EECU shuts off at 9.5 volts, so weak/failing batteries will result in a crank/no start situation. What blink codes do you have? Key on, cruise control off, press the set/decel cruise rocker down. Hold til lightning bolt blinks, then count the 2 digit code it blinks to you. Repeat set/decel request until codes start repeating themselves. Example code: 9-5. Share the codes here and we can point you in the right direction.