JoeH

We got our truck with 415k miles, so no idea how it was from factory, but this is how it was routed when we bought it. "Push" function first T's into the passenger cab mount latch, then splits to go to tilt ram and the driver cab mount latch. "Pull" function just goes to retract the tilt ram. When the cab comes over center and starts coming down on its own weight it creates enough pressure on the "push" circuit to force the latches back open. Once the cab is seated, the springs on the latches hook the cab to keep it locked down. I assume your truck is the same way, but yours is 24 years older than mine. Not sure how the "push" circuit creates the resistance during "pull" function to open the latches, there may be a small orifice the oil has to pass through in order to return to the pump. Not sure why you're having the problem you're having! Something must be acting as a check valve somewhere, or the cylinder is binding!

Mixer mounted up, need to tighten mounting bolts and hook electrical plugs, hydraulic pump, water tank rebuild the mixing auger for the back... (worn from use, not collision) I'm also chasing an ABS code that is bugging me. Right steer abs cable ripped so I put a new sensor in, but still have a code. Gotta get this truck ready for inspection!

I think I have at least 3 different style sending units on my fleet.

Just reading back through, title says you already know they're stud pilot; I assumed they were aluminum rims bc they look polished, but I guess that's just a wheel cover?

Note the above is for Budd rims, I'm not referring to spoke rims at all in the above comment.

There's Hub Pilot hubs and Stud Pilot hubs. In the picture of your truck it looks like you have Stud Pilots. The rim's stud holes need to be tapered, and the lug nuts have to be cone shaped. Our 1979 R686ST is this way. The lug nut cones center the rim on the hub. On Hub Pilots the rim will not have the cone taper, and the rim will center on the hub by sitting into a casting on the center of the hub. This style requires longer wheel studs. Also, aluminum rims are fatter than steel around the bolt pattern, so you need longer studs for aluminum than for steel wheels I believe. That could be your issue. Truck probably had steel rims originally.

Quick Google search pops up CX613/CXN613. Highway Tractor version of the same cab Granites use, with a different hood.

I think the Vision is the CH? Or the Volvo powered CHU maybe?

Wow, thank God that was at a low traffic time.

Better angle of the 1979.

My 1979 r686st. Hard to see what's going on but black from the truck harness grounds to screw, orange from pigtail mates to same screw. Other wire on pigtail butt connected to other wire from truck harness. My 1995 RD688S, has a type with 2 screw terminals.

One wire gets mounted to a screw on the sending unit, the other gets mounted to the terminal on the . middle of the sending unit.

If I read @mechohaulic right, it's not supposed to ground at all. One wire is 12v "hot" coming in, then it goes through the sending unit where the resistance changes based on fuel level, which drops voltage down. The other wire goes back to the gauge with "weakened" voltage, then the circuit grounds *after the gauge*.

38's are typically 11r22.5 tires on 5 spoke hubs. 44's and 58's are on 6 spoke hubs IIRC, which are holding 11r24.5 tires.

I'll snap a picture of my cylinder fittings if I remember today.

Is truck parked outside in the cold or inside in the heat? Are you trying to tilt cab in sub freezing temps? You could have water/ice acting as a check valve flowing back and forth. You could also have the lines hooked up backwards/in the wrong ports.

Scrap yards won't take tanks. Once they're cut open they aren't tanks. But they do need to drain so they can't hold rain water/other residual liquids. So a few holes in the underside should do the trick just fine.

Propane tanks you depressurize, pull the valves off, fill with water to displace any potential gas, drain, cut em up with your choice of tools. These tanks you have, depending how much residue they have, need to be cleaned out and torched. You just need to make it not a "tank" anymore. So cut a large section (like the whole top of the tank) out of the top and drop it inside the tank. Then the whole thing can get carried to the junk yard. They should have a belly valve that is either cable or air opened/spring close, good way to drain any liquids out. It could very well be water condensation that's accumulated in the tank from years of sitting. I have a 4000 gallon tanker on my property that took on water from sitting.

Wire it up black to ground, red to sending unit and see what happens.

Typically an rd690"S" would be 44k rear camelback. An "SX" would be 58k or higher. "ST" would be either 34k or usually 38k. If this was a concrete mixer then yes I expect it's just a solid beam version of the Mack Camelback.

It's set reasonably well. The muffler sustained a dent, and the chrome stack is sitting a little cocked on the muffler.

Torque arms done, doors done. I think we just have to do plastic fenders on the pass side and swap out bolts on the mixer body mounts, then the truck is ready for the mixer.

Glad it wasn't an ECU/software issue. "Sorry, bum software from 1st ECU got transferred to new ECU, now we have to order another ECU and try something else!" I'd have been off my rocker.

I'm in Joey Mack's territory, I just bought a sprinter van for the growing family. I'll be back in the shop on Friday, maybe I'll get some more pictures then...