JoeH
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Everything posted by JoeH
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Dont know if these are what you're looking for. I was planning on cutting the fuel neck out of one to fabricate a filler neck for my flatbed pickup.
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I've got a couple from a U model.
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The AI motors are also vmac III so I don't really see any reason you can't. Sounds like you more or less know the major differences between them. Years make a mild difference, early etechs had the EECU under the turbo. 2001 they moved it to the other side.
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2000 & 2003 mr688 cab/chassis bulkhead wire connectors. Look like theres a big nut to unscrew before unplugging. Are there lock pins that need to be pressed in before undoing the nuts? There's 3 of these round plugs, one with probably 15 or so wires for the ABS on the pass side of radiator, and 2 with similar or more wire counts on the driver side if radiator. Doing a cab swap so I need to unplug these things.
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You probably have all LED lights and the one incandescent bulb you have on the turn signals failed. Probably the dash indicator bulbs. There's a special turn signal flasher for LEDs that has a grounding wire coming out that you're supposed to attach to a good ground. LEDs don't draw enough power to trip the old style turn signal flashers, so they've made that special electronic one with the grounding wire to overcome this issue.
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I think the best description of Biden is that he's a Post Turtle, which is a turtle sitting on top of a fence post! You know he didn't put himself up there, and he doesn't know what he's doing up there!
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We had to add Prince pressure compensating valves to the auger and conveyor to balance the flow properly.
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Volumetric concrete mixer. Has to run hydraulic water pump, conveyor, mixing auger all at certain speeds to maintain the right material ratios. We had a hydraulic company design the system for us, it's garbage. Section pumps are the way these trucks need to be set up.
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We have a pump like that on one of our trucks, it's a piece of sh*t in our application, but the swash plate adjusts very fast on ours. Our system requires multiple hydraulic valves to need to be synchronized, and the type of control valves don't allow for it well.
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Getting ready to do a cab swap myself. Dealer says they gut the donor cab, and transfer all harnesses over from old cab into donor cab. Too many truck specific options to just plug and play.
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Sounds like the o-ring in the shifter tower was missing. Our Eaton 8LL would do that. Bought it used, and after the second time fixing it on the road we drove it back to the yard, pulled the tower out, disassembled, and found bits of what was left of an o-ring on the top side of the shifter ball/socket. New o-ring, hasn't happened in the past 10 years now.
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That's plenty of power for me! I've only heard one in person once, and I loooove R models, so I'd be happy as a pig in ____ to have one of those to drive every day.
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Not sure how big your pump is but I'll take a wager that 1,000-2,000 psi pressure relief will probably get the job done on shifting. If you go this route I'd start on the low side pressure relief setting and build up to the sweet spot.
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Hydraulic oil doesn't compress, so the response time could be better than you're thinking. Don't think you'd build all that much heat if you just used it as a shift assist, you're talking about 1-2 seconds of braking time per shift. It will mean more wear and perhaps shock load on your hydraulic system, mostly I'm thinking about the pump drive shaft.
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You don't need 150hp of braking power to slow the engine down. You may be stalling that thing out doing that. Typical Jake's have an electric switch on the clutch pedal, another on the throttle lever on the pump. Then there's a manual system hi/lo/off switch on the dash. Hi/lo is two heads/one head. If you were going to run your pump as a brake I'd build it into your pedals so it's instantly on or off.
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If you put a butterfly valve on, you'd need to use it constantly for shifting and probably clean it every so often. Lack of use the soot will jam up the butterfly valve and it can jam when it engages and not release. As far as using it as a brake for the truck, I'm not sure the exhaust valves can handle the back pressure. Fine when shifting, but on actual braking it may generate too much pressure any closed valve springs.
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One more spitball idea, throw a butterfly engine brake in the exhaust pipe for upshifting. It'll make the truck a whole different animal. It'll cut your engine speed down much faster so you'll be getting into gear closer to 1100 or 1200 rpms. We had a jake brake on one of our Maxidynes for decades, and it made the truck faaast.
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I would expect block and internals to be the same, only differences I would think are injectors, turbo, and fuel pump. I'd expect valve springs to be the same, only reason to put heavier springs in would be to avoid valve float while running higher rpms.
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Several "active" fault codes, mostly related to it missing it's whole back half...
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Got the engine running today on a bucket of diesel and a couple spare batteries. Neutral safety switch on the trans had gotten unplugged some time in the past 10 years, other than that it fire right up! And it's official, it has 14,090.741 miles on it. 3,887.550 engine hours, 3,105.5 of which are idle hours. A lot less than my 2003 that has 28,000 hours on the tachometer.
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Took me a minute to figure out what that things in! That's a cabover, not sure what model truck. Your exhaust is a different layout than mine. There should be a tag between the two halves of the turbo. May need to crawl deep in there and clean it off.
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I'm not sure there is an em6-350, I think the Maxidynes tapped out at 300. If it's a 350 then I'd expect it to be an e6-350. I drive an E7-350 triaxle with an 8LL most days, 8 gears will get it to 70+ mph. If the 350 runs, you might be happier dropping that and the 9 speed transmission into the truck. That will give you much better gearing for what you're trying to do.
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Garrett rebuilt turbo.
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Mind you my #1 answer was a superliner with an E9! That's what I would buy! But parts are hens teeth for those motors I hear. Other than that, a true Mack motor (non Volvo mp series) only gets you 12 liters, which probably doesn't meet his needs. I'm unwilling to go near an MP engine any time soon.
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You did mention you have a spare motor. What is it exactly? And is your current motor an E6-275L or an EM6-275L? Knowing if they have the M in there is important. I'm thinking your best spring change would be like you said, swap either just springs from your spare motor or swap the whole fuel pump. For a pump swap it'll need to be an EM6 pump not an E6 pump because it sounds like you have very tall gearing. The EM6 motors make 90%+ of peak torque from 900-1100 rpms all the way to the governor, whereas a standard E6 has a much smaller power band.
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