JoeH

You need to open your fuse box and check the EECU fuse for looseness. That's why my '03 wouldn't start for a few days.

The extra gears of an 18 are a waste on that motor anyway. Those ENDT676 maxidynes make 90%+ peak torque from about 1000-1200 all the way to 2100 rpms. Unless you're doing a lot of highway speeds all you really need is the 2 stick 5 speed they typically started life with.

I know the cable/tube you're talking about, but I would have assumed the system has a pressure relief valve for that... My single axle dump truck has a piston with a built in bypass that when it fully extends it just diverts oil internally out a secondary hose.

I believe that line literally just pushes onto the fitting. If it's the same as the one in the picture you sent. You may be able to pull it off, cut a bit off, and put it back on if there's enough slack. Maybe wrong though. I'm used to these lines failing on the older endt676 motors. Maybe the e7 doesn't use leakoff lines from the injectors.

Looks like leakoff lines, easy fix. The plastic tubing gets old and starts splitting, which introduces air into the fuel injector lines.

EN=Engine D=Diesel T=Turbo 675=237hp variant 676=283-287hp variant. A gasser example would've been an EN707 or something along those lines whereas you probably have an ENDT675. A turbo charge diesel, 237hp. A naturally aspirated diesel (no turbo) would be END6xx (probably 672, but not positive.) I believe they're all 672 cubic inch engines, but to differentiate the newer variants they just changed the last numerical digit.

I'd suspect valve adjustment and also injection pump timing...

Note the position of throwout bearing and clutch release fork before you disassemble, their setup may be different than you're used to?

Maybe it's for my 7 ft tall father in law who is thin?

I've never had picture problems... But I haven't posted any in a couple months?

Looooong bolts with smooth shoulder and maybe heads cut off so you can slide the differential forward and off onto a transmission jack or a ratchet sling assembly.

It has 2 rusty elbows on the top of the engine. I really hope one is intake and the other is for a turbo. Looks like a solid 12 inch diameter pipe.

I'd ditch that supplier and get a 275g (or bigger depending on how remote you are) tank with a pneumatic pump & nozzle. With 20 trucks in your fleet you are going through enough oil to warrant buying oil in bulk. If you have trucks on different oils then you could get a tank for each grade of oil. We have 3 trucks and use a "half" tank for 15w40 and another half tank for hydraulic. REIT lubricants fills a small jar for us every time we get oil from them. That way if there's a problem with the oil then we have a sample to send out for testing, to rule out if it's an oil problem or a truck problem.

That's a PitA. Are you buying this oil in 55g barrels or is a company coming and pumping it into your tanks from a lube truck?

Losing prime is usually the injector leakoff lines along the tops of.the heads. Or at least on the 2v heads that's the case. Not sure how the 4v heads are set up.

I put 70,000 mile all season Michelin tires on my 97 dodge Cummins snow plow truck. I've got 22,000 miles on them and they're worn down to the limits. I work the truck hard, but I don't abuse it. The transmission has never been rebuilt and I've got the truck up to 228,000 miles. Usually people only get 70,000 miles out of the 47re dodge transmission. Fact is, hard work eats rubber.

Dial this back to the problem. Recaps have burned through 80% of their tread in 8,000 miles. Cheap rubber compound? What kind of driving do you do? That's probably about the mileage that we get out of our tires, but we have a 15 mile radius and lots of backing into driveways. Scrubs the tread off pretty quick. How's your air pressure in the tires? I always find tires come back from tire shops way under pressure. This will lead to weird scalloping along the shoulders of the tread, and certainly more "scrubbing" of tire tread as the tandem twists through turns. Driving habits also affect tire life. Hard starts and hard braking will mean more wear on tires. Ideal driving habits should include anticipating red lights and coasting in easy in the hopes of hitting a green light that you can ease back into travel speed safely. Far too often in today's 500hp automatic trans world I'm seeing dump truck drivers slamming in to stops hard, taking off hard, and whipping in and out of traffic as if they were Porsches. HP is like a concealed carry gun. Just because you have it doesn't mean you have to use it...

Torque arms new?

How much you want for that roof panel, where are you located? We have a 1979 R686ST that we want to retire and give a little TLC.

Glad you found the problem. Is this truck a recent acquisition? Or something you've owned a long time that tends to sit? If it's a recent acquisition then it sounds like previous owner was a bit careless with his fuel. Wouldn't be a bad idea to change all the fluids just to be safe.

http://www.berrycammn.com/ Someone mentioned on here a few years ago that these guys can weld a new lobe on an grind it to shape. If your machine shop can't save your cam then maybe these guys can.

Front of engine, driver side. Basically the housing that the upper radiator hose comes out of. Check your turbo boost, a cracked charge air cooler will cause elevated pyrometer temps, leading to elevated head temps, and thus elevated coolant temps. Not sure if/how that EECU reacts to reduced boost.

I'm assuming 1125, same as endt676

Modern biodiesel grows algae, so your tank suction line could be clogged with that. Or you're outa fuel? Sucking air in somewhere?

That it was running fine until you stuck it in gear tells me engine should be fine, unless you broke a crankshaft getting it in gear with a stuck clutch.