JoeH

Also those injector lines run at 26,000psi. Yes, 26,000. DO NOT crack them loose while running, it will blow diesel fuel right into your skin and kill you.

Your battery voltage sucks. If the voltage drops to 9.5 volts while cranking then the engine computer shuts off momentarily until voltage comes back up. You need good fresh batteries.

Sounds like you need to do a Cummins swap! 🤠

I'd pull the EUP's and also their respective can followers. I just had some major work done on my 2003 ai-350 with 28,000 hours. Had stumble/miss/low power. 3 bad EUPs, 2 had broken springs (1 spring was broken in 5 pieces....) truck also had 2 bad EUP Cam Followers and 1 bad injector nozzle. Cam followers, roller axle shifted on one, cocking the roller so it didn't ride smooth on camshaft. Other bad follower had a chip out of the top of the cup from broken EUP spring. I think the Cam Followers from Bosch through Metro Fuel Injection/M&D were around $150 each, and the reman EUP's were in the $500+ range after good cores returned. In hindsight I should have replaced all 6 followers and at least tried to replace the springs on the 3 EUPs I didn't replace, but we were very tight on money.

He was 20 at time of death, he would have been a juvenile for the Antifa BLM "Summer of Love". Juvenile records would be sealed.

Here's a Gindy "Mack" trailer. Nose of the trailer says Mack Transportation Co, Phila. I don't think this is the trailer you're looking for.

We put a "reman" compressor in our 1979 endt676, pukes just as much oil as the old compressor did. Run it or rebuild it yourself. Don't put a "reman" compressor in. Not worth the money. Also, modern engines pull their compressor intake air from the boosted intake manifold. Builds air faster. On engine pistons there's a science behind combustion pressures wedging the piston rings against cylinder walls harder, creating better seal. Similar could apply to compressor rings as well, might get better seal/less oil puke if your compressor is getting boosted air.

Im in the "do a visual inspection of the heads and reuse them" camp. You clearly had head gasket problems, plus a damaged pushrod. I'd roll with fixing those.

This is 100% the truth. Stall until the threat is arrested. Now we have a dead father, a widowed mom, and a dead 20 year old. And am irrate Right.

In the video I saw recently I don't think it's a double. Everyone is claiming he's suddenly much taller than Jill, but if you look at their feet Jill is standing several feet back. The camera angle has that effect. It's one of the tricks they used when they filmed The Lord of the Rings to make the hobbits look so much smaller.

Supposedly he says Trump may have been hit by shrapnel, not a bullet. I'd like to know what they suspect the shrapnel might be from. Horseshit.

Soon the news cycle is going to start saying that Kamala has been running the country behind the scenes bc of how far gone Biden is. All to bolster her supposed competence.

Blown head gasket or EGR valve assembly issues? Could be pressurizing the tank and pushing coolant out the overflow tube.

Duct tape? Would help to know what model/year you're working on...

I'm going to miss this thread when Biden is out of office. 😭😭😭

There's your problem. My e7-350 hits 30, and in the right circumstances I've hit 34 psi. Wheres your pyrometer peaking? 700 I thought you said? Sounds like you're under fueling. Get your filters changed, check/replace your fuel supply lines. Fuel suction lines can come apart internally, closing off the line internally under suction pressure. You should also check your fuel supply pump. If your pyro is running hot, 1000°+, then I'd suspect air problems, i.e. boost leak.

460XT is the file you want.

+1 on fuel filters. You need boost gauge also. Should at least be hitting 30 psi.

CCRS EUPs are a different part number. CCRS means Current Controlled Rate Shaping. Instead of a binary On/Off injection, the injection is done in 2 phases, an initial modest phase that gets the burn started, then it goes into second phase where it goes all in. This is likely controlled by the EECU, but like Joey I'm weak on programming knowledge. Use whatever EUPs you're supposed to have. Heads and injector nozzles are different on ETECH/CCRS motors in believe. ETECH has fuel return galleries drilled into the head, CCRS I don't think does. At least the AI/AC motors that are CCRS don't have them.

Do you still have the 88 IDI? We have a '91 IDI. Fuel pump is a PoS. You have to dump a cup of water on the back of the fuel pump to get it to start when hot. We had a shop put a rebuilt pump on it less than 10,000 miles ago, and allegedly it's a thing that the housings wear out and you can't do anything about it. Cold water shrinks the housing to help it start....

The manual trans will hold up much better than an automatic. My '97 dodge 2500 12v just hit 231,000 miles on the original trans. I bought it from a CAT mechanic who was religious about changed trans fluid and adjusting bands every 20k miles. I've plowed snow with it every winter since I've bought it at 185k miles, and it just keeps on chugging along. Motor is fantastic, hasn't needed anything other than a water pump.

I also expect straight pipes will help with Exhaust Temps. Diesels you want to get rid of exhaust as quick as you can. Backpressure is undesirable. Gas engines, especially dirt bikes are where the real science on back pressure starts to play a role.

Heat, head gasket and trans issues.

The 7.3 PS is a fantastic motor, I'd argue 2nd in durability only to the 12v 5.9 Cummins. I think this boy is going to be having heat induced issues more than anything else. Remember, many old Mack's run without functional puff limiters and blow decent coal when pulling. If the trucks an automatic he'll be cooking that if he runs too much HP, then he's going to swap in some bulletproofed trans, feel that cost sting a bit, and he'll up the HP even more. Annoying, but you sleep in the bed you make. Let him live with the consequences. Not sure what his employment status is, but if his name is on the side of the truck if he's self employed then it's his own name/reputation he's tarnishing if he's smoking out everyone else driving around town.

https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6488&GroupId=404 Free download from Mack on the E9 manual. Or you can go to your local dealer and have them order shop manual #5-102 Look through the Mack eMedia website, everything you need should available. There is no "book for R Models". The books are component specific. Engine, Trans, Rears, etc. There'll be a book on frames too I expect. There's books for the more modern engines and their computer systems too.