JoeH

+1 if it were Hilary they wouldn't have missed...

Did you try just tightening the nut?

Valve cover gaskets go on bone dry, only torque to spec, no more. Over torquing squishes the valve cover out of shape, and any sort of glue/adhesive makes the gasket slippery, it'll bulge out of position and leak oil.

I found the screwdriver/injection pulse test in Mack literature. Sounds "batty" til you try it.

Any time an EUP is removed, remove it's lifter as well. Costs nothing to lift it out and check the roller and do a visual on the cam lobe. The axle shifted on one of mine, resulting in the axle only being held by one side.

While idling & missing, press a flathead screwdriver firmly against each injector line, roughly an inch above the EUP connection. You should feel injection pulses. If one of them isn't pulsing then that's your problem cylinder. Second test is a cylinder cut out test: individually pull a wire off each EUP, one at a time, reinstall each wire as you go. Don't back wire screws out all the way, they're not designed to come all the way out. The wire end is egg shaped to slide off a loosened screw. You'll get a spark as you take the wire off. You're listening for which EUP cutout affects the idle the least. Another thing to check: valves have Rotators. Pull your valve covers and look for missing rotators in the valve caps. Joey will know better than me what these look for. If all this checks out then you need to inspect your camshaft for a bad lifter that maybe ate a lobe on your camshaft. I just had $18,000 of work done on my 2003 AI350, which had some combination of all of these failures including injector nozzle. Only part of the above I dodged was camshaft, but I did have 2 failing lifters and 3 bad EUPs. 2 broken EUP springs and 1 failing solenoid in an EUP.

Truckpaper is your best resource for VIN hunting.

It's a 4 stroke. It takes 2 full rotations, 720 degrees, to work through all 6 cylinders' combustion strokes. Each cylinder is adjusted on its combustion stroke TDC. Glad you didn't have any interference damage.

Happy 4th of July. Enjoy!

I died laughing when Trump called Joe "Brandon". Anyone else catch that?

It's entirely doable, but it's a big task.

2001 onward the EECU has been moved up on to the intake manifold area on the left side of the engine, a much safer location for it.

Stay away from highway trucks with the AC ASET motor. An ASET AI motor is ok, you can delete the internal EGR components and the computer is none the wiser. Cam has extra bumps on exhaust lobes to suck a little exhaust back in during intake stroke, and exhaust manifold/turbo are a bit restricted to create back pressure. There's a thread on here that goes through this motor very well with part numbers to replace. 1998-2000 the EECU is on the right side of the engine under the heat shields below the turbo. Fuel is pumped through it to keep it cool. If engine mounts are worn or you aren't careful when handling transmission removal/install the EECU can tap the frame and the EECU is junk from a minor dent. Personally I'd hunt for an E7 mechanical engine from the mid '90's. Fuel, air and you're good to go. No computers, no wiring. No computer gremlins and glitches to bother you.

Best thing is to have the donor truck on hand with all necessary parts, wiring, computers, etc. What year E7-460 are you planning to swap in? Worth mentioning, if it's vmaciii, 1998-2006 or so, the VECU and ABS module gets mounted by the passenger's feet, and the windshield gasket can fail and leak water and destroy VECU. It's not waterproof. If you're going to do all this headache then replace your windshields/gaskets, and make sure the sheet metal is good. Hope you have the trans to match the 460, that's a big jump from 300, need to make sure whatever trans you have has the torque rating to handle that engine. Also driveshaft. I've noticed on our Mack's, 300hp motors get a skinnier driveshaft that 350's and up. So you may want to check that too. Other than that, as long as you have a donor truck to supply engine mounts and miscellaneous brackets you should be good to go. But it's going to take a good bit of work.

On the old VIN system, RD is double frame I believe. A single frame would just be an R. We have a single frame R686ST under this VIN system. On the new VIN system, there is only an RD, and it's used for both single and double frames. I had a 2001 RD688ST, which was a single frame 400hp tractor with 38k air ride. We also have 2 other RD's on the new VIN system, an '88 RD690S and a '95 RD688S. Both are double frame triaxle with 44k rears. The 690 is an EM6-300L maxidynes, the 688 is an E7-350.

https://www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-J-44004-King-Pin-Cap-Tool-Kit-p/kmtj-44004.htm Joey got me straightened out! I was thinking 22002, but it was 44004. This is the kit my local dealer lent me, it was fantastic. Might buy this set next time I have to do king pins. The + fits nicely into the caps, you can put an air wrench on it, then run the thread chaser in to clean up threads after you get the cap out.

That's exactly it. Their argument in 2020 was "anyone but trump" but now they have to admit how horrible Biden is. Doesn't mean they have to like trump, but they have to admit Biden's mind is gone.

I borrowed one from local Mack dealer a few years ago, I think it was at least 3/4" drive. Brand name started with Ken, came with 2 sockets and the matching thread chasers. Worked fantastic.

FYI if the truck was originally operated in Canada then it may have a "Canadian spread" axle spacing, so longer camelback springs, longer driveshaft between the intermediate axle and rear axle.

RD in 1981 will be a double framed R model 685 will be a 237hp Mack ENDT675 engine (The "6" above is the standard frame profile) The S after 685 indicates 6 wheel truck, typically using 44k lb rear tandem. I expect it's a Mack camelback. ST is Six Wheel Tractor, usually 34-38k rear tandem. SX is Six wheel Extreme duty rear tandem, typically 55k springs, potential to go up to 65k supposedly, or even 100k I think if i remember reading something about it once, but that would be on an RD800.

Someone else can chime in, I thought the kingpin socket was a Kenmore tool #22002, but I can't find it anywhere online. What brand is it??

The grease cap on the top of the king pin hole usually gets spot welded on, otherwise greasing them pushes the caps off.

Spend your money on the king pin nut tool from Kenmore, it comes with both size sockets for all Mack steering axles as well as thread chasers to clean up the threads. We do same as Joey. Crib up the axle beam, disassemble hub, balance an old king pin on from the previous king pin job, and beat the hell out of it patiently. Doesn't usually take us too much beating, these pins are tapered. Once they pop they come right out, unlike a straight king pin that can be gummed up the whole way out. Sidenote, I'm a scrawny 5'11" 150 pounder. I can swing a 6 pound sledge a lot harder than I can swing an 8 pound sledge. Use the tools you can control.

At 40k you won't even know you're loaded. We have a 1979 with an endt676 (283hp 2valve heads) that still runs strong at 50k+.

I'll take mean tweets over pooping on stage in front of the world... Absolutely outrageous the image we project with this guy...