JoeH

Do something!

Just check every fuse and replace any that are blown.

Internal o ring seal in the slave cylinder? Pressure leaks through from pressure side to vented side, thus your leak?

I think I know the bolts you need, we bought a few from Mack a few years ago for our Jacobs brake on one of our ebdt676 motors. I think we got the last 3 available, rofl! They were $80 each!!! Ripoff. We bought em and took a few out of our spare motor, too.

A lot of guys use PAI for older stuff here, I'll bet they're probably good. Is PAI cheaper?

That is madness. How is it the prisons financial responsibility to finish what this idiot started?? If the person can use the bathroom then just lock em up! If they didn't want to get locked up with a bunch of other criminals then they shouldn't have done whatever they did!

You "think" fuel shutoff is in the right position, try it in the "other" position and see what happens. Looks like a weird setup with that chain hanging on the shutoff lever....

So I'm guessing it's your secondary filter that was loaded up? Check your fuel tank, see what is inside it. Might have to drain it to get a better idea. Looking at the flow chart if the secondary filter got loaded from something failing the supply pump is the only reasonable culprit, unless fuel lines go into the block after primary and before secondary filter, which would be kinda dumb. With new filters does the truck have it's power back? Maybe the metal came with the filter.... Hate to throw it out the as an idea but........ Anything's possible?

Some union boy got upset that you were working so he dumped metal shavings in your fuel. Kidding, but it wouldn't be the first time. My cousin got metal shavings in the engine oil of all his equipment on a job once. Courtesy of union pricks. And they wonder why the rest of us don't like them, and want nothing to do with them.

Mine works better if I use it a lot, especially when I first start out in the morning before the engine is up to temperature. It was intermittent from 1500 up, now I have both heads working up to 1850 rpms. All I've done is replace the thermostat, it had a piece of rubber gasket missing so it would not close all the way. If left to idle long enough the engine temp would drop to around 100-120. Now it stays steady at 180.

685 is the 237hp motor 686 is the 285 hp maxidyne 688 is a non maxidyne e7 690 is the em6/em7 maxidyne engine On older trucks R is single frame and RD is double frame. Newer truck, guessing around late '80s, RD is all R models, single and double. Suffixes of ST, S, SX will tell you what suspension is on the rear, which will tell you single or double frame. ST is 38k Camelback, and will be a single frame tandem tractor. S is 44k Camelback, and the truck will be a double frame. SX is 55-58k or even heavier Camelback, and will likely be an even heavier double frame than a truck with suffix S. Example. My 1980 dm686sx has the 285 maxidyne endt676 engine, two 3/8th inch frame rails, and 55k rear camelback suspension. 20k front axle too.

Unfamiliar with that setup too! Lol. Only worked on an R686st, a dm686sx, an rd688s and an rd690s. That's about the extent of my truck knowledge, we have a couple 70's Mack yard trucks with 237's.

Or turn the wheel to change orientation of that bolt. But it's gotta come out. Not familiar with the truck setup, but I'd have that wheel off for working room too.

Yeah bolts gotta come out. Torch the head off and get a new bolt or just take the shock off. Also, drive a chisel into the split to open it up while you put the puller on it. Heat is your friend here also. And penetrating oil. And a BF hammer.

My guess is the DM front hitch is for pushing. I think for some super heavy loads they run a puller and a pusher, especially for making it over some hills.

I'd start with putting a mechanical oil pressure gauge in to make sure your oil pressure is in fact ok despite faulty dash.

My 95 e7-350 mechanical has a Jacobs so yes. Just don't know what all you need.

Wonder what kinds mpg he gets...

What is the proper way to do it? 😀 My 95 rd688s steers like the Titanic, we have adjusted it to get about as much out of the 315s as we can reasonably get.

Our dm686sx used to top out at 47, dad ran it for 15 years that way then it dropped a bearing in one of the differentials so I made him buy a junk yard pair that'd do 60+. Was much better to drive after that, except for the 20k steer axle that felt like you were riding a brick down the road... There's only two highways around us that we drive on and they're both 55mph. We don't need more than 65.

We call them pumpkins.

Every municipal plow truck I've ever looked at has been destroyed by salt. By the time they let them go their frames are horrible. I don't imagine these are any better...

Or shock absorber.

My cousin had a Pete with a Cat motor, the piston cylinder walls were eaten through and air bubbles were getting into the coolant that way.