JoeH

I owe this after hijacking the thread!

At 1200-2600 depending on merchant I think I'll fabricate a deck to bolt to my trans jack!! It's got tilt and whatnot too! Sweet looking hand cart!

I picked up a set of liners and bolts for mine a few years ago, but never got around to putting them on. Truck drives around the yard with no shoes on one wheel, but it's just a yard truck. We got them from Associated Truck Parts in Warminster PA, I'm sure they weren't 250, otherwise we wouldn't have gotten them.

Snap a photo of it? We bought a trans jack from harbor freight, I think I used it once for a hub with decent results, but I need to make a deck for it specifically for spoke hubs, it's a bit wobbly for hubs. My dad and I have always used a car jack, one if us will work the jack while the other steadies the hub. I'm trying to become more self reliable so I can send him on vacation for a month or two here and there and still get things done.

I do like those aluminum rims for steer and lift. They look real sharp, recessed in just right with a wide tire I like that style granite, looks more like a work truck than the newer flashy ones. Take your pick, heavy wheels or heavy hubs. In theory I think I'd rather buds on the rear, because I'm a wimp too. Don't relish the idea of pulling spoke hubs off by myself for a brake job. Only time a bud hub needs to come off is when a wheel seal goes bad. But we only have spoke hubs trucks. Just the way it's always been. We back into a lot of driveways , so we think bud rims would crack more often than normal. Not sure what everyone else's experiences are.

That's why it say fill property with rats and leave. Rats will spread through town.

Build grain silos to attract rats. Lots and lots if rats. Maybe import a few New York rats. My dad always says if he won the lottery he would fill our property with stuff to attract rats, just to spite the Borough.

Interesting, because my flatback R cab doesn't have the seam body line at the back of the fender, and it's the oldest truck we have.

As long as it's an etech VMac III engine, code 1-7 is coolant level sensor. Check your coolant level, if it's good then check the connection to the sensor. If the connections good, change the sensor.

You can see the seam I'm talking about in these pictures. The truck is the 79, and the hood on the ground is the 81. The 81 went to the scrap yard years ago, except for hood, engine, trans and rears. Both trucks, 79 and the 81, were/are engine mounted intercoolers, endt676 engines. The 81 was a Canada truck, not sure where it was made.

Etech engine? My code book is for the vmac iii etech engine. I'll check tomorrow to see what for 1-7 is.

I believe the 88 doesn't have any "bump" where the 79 and 81 do.

Enlighten me on the variations of R model hoods. I have a 79 r686st that the back of the fender is a seperate part bonded to the rest of the fender, and a 1981 hood that is all one piece but has a fake seam where the 79 has that bonding. Bought an 88 that probably has an aftermarket hood, and have a 95 with the new style hood. Why the variations on the 79 and 81?

I put in radiant floor heat in my cottage. 2nd winter, it's amazing. But my cottage sits on a concrete slab. I had to jackhammer it out, dig down enough so I could put 2" foam board from Lowe's and 4 inches of concrete, then tile. 18'x25' cottage. My system is an "open" radiant floor system using a propane tankless water heater and a circulator for the 4 loops in the floor. "Open" means floor water is tied with the domestic water. Took 5 months for me to install it and renovate the first floor, but it's great.

Anyone recognize the driver? 😎

The only thing working to push that cab back is the engine. Frame looks like it cracked between the battery box and fuel tank, so rear cab mounts are lifting up while front pivots.

Most stressed point is halfway between lift axle and steering axle. I've been told having your lift axle set with too much pressure will stress the frame. Need to support the load evenly. That's an impressive failure. I wonder if his lift axle was up or down. It's both now, lol ... Wonder how much off road site work this truck has seen. Overloaded and no lift axle on rough terrain.

I got to a job with my 79 R686ST that was bouncing kinda funny on the drive. Got there, walked around the truck and found the right frame rail was split through bottom flange and the whole sidewall where it flare's around the trans. Was only holding on by the top flange! We cut it behind the cab and spliced a good front half on that side, been running it that way 5 or 6 years now!

I guess the frame cracked... Lol. shame.

Make one on wheels. My book says an e7 weighs about 2300-2500 depending on dry or wet. So 4 600# casters should hold it nicely.

http://www.truckpaper.com/ListingsDetail/Detail.aspx?lp=TRK&OHID=18757595 Here's a 2000 rd688s with a 427 and a 13 speed maxitorque for 18,500 in New Jersey. If it doesn't fix the vibration you can always put the tractor back together and resell. If it works, you have spare cab parts for your triaxle. Or someone here might be interested in buying some cab parts off it.

Dropping a replacement motor and transmission in is the only reliable fix I can think of for your situation, unless you find something wrong inside the trans. Maybe find a high mileage running tractor on the cheap to be donor.

Does it vibrate in neutral, revved up, not moving? Is the vibration speed dependant or engine rpm dependant? What trans does it have? Has the trans been opened up to look for a broken snap ring? Engine might be fine, guts of the trans may have been compromised.

Could always pick up an e9 for the repower, maintain the cool factor. I assume itd fit.

Legs are just angle iron, nothing special. Our legs are short though, we built it for storage not working on.