JoeH

I've got a home made one our spare parts endt676 is sitting in. It's got legs bolted to the flywheel housing and I forget what up front. I think that engine has threaded bosses on the side/front of the engine, because we had the timing cover off it a year ago to steal the camshaft. Legs are welded to C channel bases that are web section up so our forklift can come in and grab it from the side.

So what is a Jerk system? Is the endt676 a PLN system then? Is PLN basically to differentiate between a common rail system and a traditional fuel injection system?

What does pln stand for?

If it were closer I'd lend my John Deere 450B...

Not sure how far the Jake's open the exhaust valve, but they can't have it opened enough to interfere at TDC. Idle injection advance is ballpark 18°, so injection and combustion have already happened by the time the Jake starts opening. That last 18° the combustion works to slow the engine, then near TDC the exhaust valve starts to open, venting the remaining pressure generated by the combustion. Not sure if diesels change injection advance based on rpm. Hobert may be on to something with the butterfly brake not working in tandem with a traditional. The Jake doesn't dump the "compressed air" it dumps the cylinders "reward" combustion. It works to make the combustion but the combustion is vented before it can be turned into mechanical power. Thus, it's a force of resistance. An international oil delivery truck i drive in the winter has a butterfly style, and that brake will throw you through the windshield! But that's a single axle truck, not a 107000# truck. At that weight you simply need to drive smart and maintain a safe rig. (That goes for all weights)

1970something Case W18 wheel loader today. No check engine light, no computer, none of the gauges work, brakes are iffy, we've been running it as is for 25+ years. Except for the half-ass (literally, only the ass-half) paint job last year. Like most projects, we needed it running before we finished. This one the cab sits on the front half, wheel loaders nowadays have the cab on the rear so the operator has a better idea of where the back of the machine is pointing.

That's sad. Pete's are nice highway trucks but they don't have the ground clearance Mack's have. He's gonna need to watch his steer axle fenders, the mudflaps tend to get pinched backing up, ripping the fenders off. Gotta watch the fuel tanks too. If I were running highway paving I'd probably buy a Pete, but for site work off in the dirt I'd take a Mack all day long.

That's gotta be a pain to dump. Gotta unhook 2nd trailer every load, then hook back up?....

Get your family member to watch out for an early year granite cv713. Just watch out for rust jacked frames.

You don't need to pull the plug to check oil level, just to add oil. Clean the window, it has add and full lines on it. If you have to add oil you might be able to do so through that drain plug on the bottom left of the cap in the picture.

Pulling codes is always key on engine off.

Watch for engine codes. When the key is first turned on you should see the lightning bolt turn on for a bit then go off. That's the check engine light. If it stays on, with the cruise control switch off hold down the set/decel button a few secobdst until the check engine light starts doing stuff. It'll blink out a 2 digit fault code. Write it down. Hit the set/decel again, it'll blink another fault code if there is one. Keep doing it til it doesn't give any new codes any more. Some of us here have invested in the books on these trucks and can tell you what the codes mean. The tiniest dent in the side of that computer is all it takes to destroy it, or so I'm told, so be careful with it if you buy the truck. Clean looking engine!

I had a slight miss on my 95 e7-350 last year, 2nd set of fuel filters cleared it up. Almost sounded like the Jake brake was engaging at higher (15-1600) RPMs. Pulling the Jake wires off the heads eliminated that possibility. First set of fuel filters made it good for a day or two, second set made it go away, hasn't happened since. 18,600+ hours, 250,000 miles, original engine, never rebuilt that we know of. Only ever get 26 psi boost out of it, would love to know how you guys get 30+ psi! This dog is no maxidyne, we thought there was something wrong with the engine because it just didn't pull like we thought a Mack 350 should. But we had only ever driven endt676 maxidyne 2 sticks prior, and this truck makes the same boost they made. We just had to get used to a totally different power band.

55k rear tandem, etech motor probably right side VMac III computer next to frame rail. Need to be sure your engine mounts are in good shape so the engine doesn't rock and crush the computer.

Clean up that hub cap, it's a window to look in and see the oil level. The center rubber plug can be pried out to add more gear oil if it's low.

One of our yard trucks is hard to start in cold weather. We just hit it with a little ether to get her going. But we only use the truck once every few years just to shuffle it around. Our other yard truck (crane) has a blown head gasket but fires up from a gentle bump of the key. Doesn't really care on the outside temp. Both are Mack 237 horse motors.

Welcome to the club!

What are you planning to do with the old pump? Might be interested in it if you're local. It sounds like a Section Pump to me. One input shaft, multiple pump sections in one unit, each with their own output hose. Used for multiple functions to be used simultaneously but need different amounts of oil flow per minute. We are rebuilding one volumetric concrete mixer right now that we have a pump for, but could use another section pump to convert our other truck from a piston pump. (POS pump for the application...)

I believe they need to be paired with a maxidyne engine, which were engineered during 55 mph national speed limit. So they're great up to their peak speed of 62 mph. I'm assuming I'm talking about the right transmissions. Would help to know more about the truck....

Thought I had remembered reading that this truck was in an accident at one point, maybe not though...

Did you ever just swap the motor out with a replacement? Maybe the flywheel housing or bell housing got tweaked, throwing the engine/trans alignment off. Or the crank got tweaked. Ever check the flywheel run-out with the trans off?

It says diesel on the hood, but I don't know anything about B's

Complain on the Volvo customer satisfaction hotline about the dealer and the work. Not that Volvo cares I suppose...

And a chipping hammer, underside of the truck tends to get caked in concrete. Truck runs just fine for me, I like it's gearing. It'll do 70+ IIRC, though I never take it on roads with speed limits above 55. Biggest problem I have with the truck is it's about a foot longer than any other triaxle in the area. 228" wheelbase, steers a bit like the Titanic.

That is priceless. I'd love to be a fly on that wall.