mechohaulic

the splice the water line add on heaters are defiantly better than nothing. they take a lot longer to heat an engine ; still work. another DO NOT;; don't ever start an engine with a block heater plugged in. it ruins the element . cascades air bubbles to form on the element and shortens the life span of the element

OH the good ole days. watching the exhaust warm and change colors. amazing thing for me is ; back in the good days with all the exhaust smoke i never noticed the inside windows of my vehicle get as cloudy as they do today with all the emission BS. and i don't smoke .

my thoughts and only mine . if the new tanks are on the ground ready for install , I would put top vents in. 1- hot weather and fuel expands hope it doesn't run down tank. from vented caps. . 2 with top vent you can add tad more fuel . 3- old tanks have vents on top that can be transferred? 4 have seen tanks seeping from vented caps possibly they were over full

should have the screw in plug. later yrs came out with the "car style" ;pry out . I had a drag link 3/4 drive screw driver socket for the removal of the plug. round off the edges so it fits the plug. then there have been the plugs which would NOT come out. magnet near the plug and small drill making a lot of holes to split the plug. DO NOT bend the element to install. plug above starter isn't alot of room. we won't discuss another option to heat a cold engine ::: fire pail under the oil pan: yes have done it . mostly on excavators etc outside. and one S O B Cummins that hated the cold.

so 33yrs of motorcycle.cars.boats etc is called grammer school. NOW with diesel especially a Mack you have entered high school . the goal is to graduate with top honors. never put a time slot on a project when its for yourself. take note of some of the projects being done on this site. many /most take 20 plus yrs. if you time slot it the fun is gone. after internal work (engine, trans ) outsiders won't see what you did the inner feeling of having built it makes it worthwhile.

that "title" got me many hrs(years) becoming professional at running a steam cleaner and grease gun. all the while asking thousands of questions to the knowledgeable ones. seems different in todays world- after 60=90 days a person "qualifies (by union standards i guess) to be called a mechanic.

you own a diesel AND are working on it ;;;YOU ARE A DIESEL MECHANIC : the extent of your knowledge depends solely on how much you want to learn. as a senior in high school 50 plus yrs ago , I started at Mack trucks as a ::: assistant apprentice , mechanics helper! try and figure that one. LOL

have to put a little humor in every situation now and then. I have john deere farm tractor apart right now which like your B was a"simple fix" having a stuck clutch. WRONG thanks to a very hard working rodent ; I removed two full pails of nest from bell housing area , all brought in through a tiny 1 in hole . the nest and the piss seized and rusted everything.

I would go with the idea of a donor truck ; if numbers are reasonable. total rebuild of this engine is proper way but can end up "snowballing" to an expensive deal. have seen quite a few engines apart never one with that extensive amount of damage from rodents. call the mouse back and tell him to clean up his own mess.

there's no doubt it's a beautiful truck. reality for me as a B-model it has too much bling. now if it were a LTL; RL700.that's different. a B61 series is the working force that built America. clean and polish great. that's a alot of alum to clean. I would be afraid of stepping on the tank to get in. just sayin. not meaning to offend anyone.

as an old man i used clean motor oil. todays technical world must have new and improved lubes

also I was never that critical of the 1/2turn. there was always a plus-minus. another plus of the GOOD DAYS :: didn't have a sensor telling a computer == hey theres a stud on head # one that has a head stud 1/2 pound off on torque. did a slant 6 cummins having corner studs at 325 lbs . didn't have concern if the studs moved ;;LOL

don't recall a stud turning that much in torquing process. when "book"says back off 1/2 turn , a lubed nut shouldn't tighten stud the full half turn back. for conversation sake, next engine you build , mark top of stud = check movement - let me(us) know. I ALWAYS took an air hose to each stud location before installing a slightly lubed stud. in most cases (when possible) engine always came back for retorque

Backing the studs out 1/2 turn was to allow for expansion under heat/ pressure. "in the day"it was common to lube the head studs. when the studs were installed and bottomed out ; thinking put them in tight was better:: turned out to be incorrect.. oil was in the bottom of the stud hole making a stud seem tight , in some cases (enough to bring notice) damage was done ; mostly head studs loosening up and gasket failure. have heard stories of head damage .

ALOT DIFFERENT😁

i sure hope my wife doesn't read that one . if she knows its ok to use the vibrations and still pry🤣🤣. I'lll never have any privacy. those batteries only last so long LOL

number one rule is SUPER CLEAN before taking top half of injector off. the screw slot you see is the adjusting screw for the injector setting/pressure. if the two are difficult (breaking b--ls). i would take off the valve covers before the water/ intake manifolds. alot of rags/towels what ever to keep rocker area VERY CLEAN from all the crud in the picture. a heel bar has more room from valve side. number two make sure every injector removed STILL HAS the brass/bronze washer attached . i always took a cardboard box upside down ; cut 6 slots and labeled each one ;;1-6 . as an injector is pulled; place it in the slot corresponding to the cyl it came from. makes life easier when you find an injector missing a bronze washer to locate the hole it came from. another try which im leary of stating is to double nut the injector studs; if they loosen will give less restriction to the rotating of the injector. there is ONLY 1/4'+- of thread . can't use to pressure inj out; it will screw up the stud or worse the head threads. it does work ;;I've done it .

guess that kills the idea of spinning it over to free an injector.

the shutters operated based on engine temp. never noticed but the fire trucks MAY HAVE eliminated the shutters to maintain cooler eng temps. for the most a fire truck spends engine time stationary ;goes up down the road but at a fire it's sits. there are a number of VERY knowledgeable fire truck personal on this site. many of which will prove my thoughts incorrect.

based on the picture, you have ALL the hold down inj nuts off. if you pull any inj that is free then put two nuts back on loose of the stuck one, the engine will spin over easier to possibly push the stuck ones lose. that's if the heel trick doesn't do it of course

if heel bar doesn't work ( most times it should ;; for me anyhow ) the actual injector puller screws on the top of the injector AFTER unscrewing the top where the return line fastens to. with a spare junk injector take the top outer housing off you can weld an adapter to it (style your preference ) use it as a puller by threading it on to the struck injector. or if your brave ;; loosen the two hold down nuts ;; leaving a full thread on the nuts of the stuck cyl;; spin the engine over. have lucked out and had injector push up enough to use a heel bar.

old post ; wondering what fire dept you were getting parts for

10 yrs later and the B81 still runs the highway. I was behind him on rte 63 last week.

this forum of Connecticut construction trucks is how I found this site. are there any pictures of companies such as :: allan Beard ::/ watertown construction{ they had a beautiful R-700 tractor). / Schiavi construction( red with superman style S graphics on door). E G Pugano. glad this post shows up after all the yrs ago it started.

looks similar to the R model Schiavi Construction used to haul their lowboy .