mechohaulic
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Everything posted by mechohaulic
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the suggesting of seal puller doesn't pertain just to this particular project. every job is different . having ability to clean before disassembly helps. also i'm relating to the days when there were gaskets not o-rings. pullimg covers and scraping gaskets had chance of gasket paper falling in the bearing. installing a new seal in the input housing is not easy with shaft sticking out either. time savings with a puller . a truck dead lined due to as-ole D O T inspector " that's a bad oil leak " fix it or tow it. seal puller saved me alot of time
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ideas are based on the R/ R trans. have seen the plunger nut back off not allowing a complete syncro shift. post was 3hrs ago; Dave G still around, could answer some questions such as + does the shift grind== is there an air leak in either range etc
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not familiar with an '06, as a thought; if it were a bad synchro would there not be a grinding rough shift. air cyl having a crack on plunger ? which side gets more air- low or high to make a shift?
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Is this why the (cash) registers have pictures on them . for the counter typist = EXCELLENT title also. have a better chance of knowing what item is being discussed. i 've noticed when a fruit or veg is bought without a bar code many of the typist have difficulty matching the product to the little pictures.
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projects such as yours is why i invested in a few different size seal pullers. with a seal puller no need to remove entire cover with chance of dirt/grit going into bearing. in todays world not many have an opportunity to use a steam/pressure washer .side cover looks rusted out alot possible pin holes
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783F5395-B9F1-487A-A93A-B7A5363FCDFE.jpeg
mechohaulic commented on Jaws612's gallery image in BMT Member's Gallery - Click here to view our member's albums!
what a beautiful majestic piece of equiptment NO plastic -
valve lash !!!!! my last employer ; a major soda company Co-a Co-a had a fleet supervisor that questioned why the starter was so high up on the engine;; might have something to do with he was looking at the AC compressor. and he was serious think he was in his 30's. in charge of transportation. other side of coin;;; WAY back my foreman at Mack knew Macks and the mechanical world better then anyone; a little known secret was he couldn't read . I learned more and had the most respect till this day for him. had to read to him one day the instructions on a paint can. what a changing world.
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i'm back!! longer road call then should have been . wrong cover. the four bolt cover was for the interaxle divider lock out on the front end.
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hate to leave mid-steam just got phone call ; retired i'm still doing road calls. hopefully back in couple hrs. didn't want you to think i just left.
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i feel like i'm part of a TV awards show 😀. honored my name was included. THANK YOU.
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take a clean pail ; pull gear oil sample from front rear. both axle shafts ?? both from rear rear or all 4 from both rear ends. no big pieces in banjo i would check the front rear axles. as earlier stated jack up one side at a time on front = spin the wheels. have seen axles break clean like machine shop did it. broken axle shows up, you know the "broom handle technic' for axle removal ? saves dropping the broken pieces in housing hopefully eliminating pulling chuck.
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clean around the small side cover plate (4bolts) remove cover . activate the switch== fork should slide . might have to jack up one wheel AFTER you block tires ;;spin the drive shaft. the rear rear drives the truck . auto divider ( has the wedges inside) takes hold when the rear rear spins . have seen the cog slider in the auto dividers split ;; 1 -you don't have an auto divider;;;2- noise would definately be heard.
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air operated power divider. did you take the line off to see if air is coming through?? did you flip dash switch to send air through??? yes on both questions ; possible set screw backed off on slide fork.
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the yoke dirt seals are in the same category as brake drum dust covers. one app they keep out stones; another they hold too much heat in. as mentioned yoke seals have pos/neg depending on app. yoke is being removed for seal replacement, take the dirt seal off if needed don't cut .
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there were many good things being involved in trucks and HD equiptment then. i 'm reading the post of E7 shutting down ; goes back to what i said about the simpler mechanical operation back then.
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you sure know how to make a guy feel old LOL . i was wrench pushing on the day of your birth. 😁😁 each generation guess sees changes . unfortunately the coming changes don't seem positive. remember trucks were way simpler then. there's more wires in one new "junk" then 5-6 B models had. i truly enjoy reading these forums ; just find it difficult to see how the trucks have become like cars with all the electronics. most accessories were able to be in house rebuilds. injection pumps could be tinkered with on limited scale. when factory stated a MB fire truck couldn't have a jake brake, little tinkering had one ,, NO vin number or computer needed.
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way back in the day, most customers didn't need to even put the part on a counter. walk in tell the counter guy what you want for what truck he walked back and returned with the RIGHT part. ask for brake blocks ( use to reline your own), counter guy might ask what grit you want. beyond different today.
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no more likes allowed , do next best thing😄😃😀
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now this topic is waking some dormant brain cells. air clutches use to have basically two treddle pedals on the floor. older UPS F models didn't have a clutch pedal ; treddle pedal for clutch. think i have to confer with another source ;;; hey jack jack daniels .. LOL
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auto slacks first came out , it was critical to have all matching. is it not necessary now? the slacks had a color coded tye wrap . miss match might have one adjusting faster than another. replaced one last week on trailer suspension = couldn't find a color code. correct spline and ctr distance.
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I all too well remember the days of the extended pipe on a breaker bar; every morning i wake up as a matter of fact. my thoughts of the video :1 -no never seize on the bolts on install;2- not even an impact socket on torque multiplier 3- no gloves or back brace; without a doubt a job for pros
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if i'm seeing correctly, the picture is of the rear/rear. not seeing a dif lock housing, shouldn't have air in the rear/rear.
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after clean up, drop the drive shaft , remove hold down bolt , take off the thick "flat washer" replace the hold down bolt leaving very small gap between yoke and bolt. no puller available I kept the excess threaded shaft from brake cans and made pullers or this case a pusher . using fine thread nut or two welded together. heavy flat plate with 4 holes bolt plate to yoke, 5/8 hole in center of plate with threaded rod through. threaded rod pushes against the hold down bolt. i always had the yoke pullers ;;just case ones not there. seal removers saved alot of time also. no need to pull the cover, unless worn parts show.
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i would recommend checking up/down end play (slop) before taking things apart.you can have better idea if it's just bad seal or worn internal parts. second thing ;; cleanliness is Godlyness . clean completely around yoke before attempted removal.won't do any good having the dirt in the bearings. never know i've seen yokes slide off with slight "tapping".
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stated he greased it before =no problem, maybe last grease job was in warm summer weather with a different tube of grease. just sayin, air assist set up doesn't have the return pressure as manual . can't be totally messed up if he moved linkage by hand;; afterwards felt the pushing pressure .
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