mechohaulic

don't see need for intentional destruction of fine pieces of equipment; other side of the why is ;; i'd rather see someone of such talent destroy engines than the videos showing how to shoot up innocent people

watched it and not much to say except WHY. maybe they were bored. destroy it then take it apart check for damage ?? LOL

starting at Mack truck at 17 yrs old now 71 ; kinda glad the memory is failing and don't remember all the changes since then. no computers/ abs/ DEF fuel and don't forget the amount of wiring in just one truck today vs the few wires in a b model. one little tail light etc .. i like the old black rotary phone IN the HOUSE. a burger king whopper that was so big you could only eat one .. LOL and the list goes on

so much easier and safer with proper equipment . AND a shop clean and in order .

I bought the '49 EE dump the paint was a little faded and couldn't trailer home a rusty junk. wipe the entire unit down with some thinner; started at the left front ; sprayed the entire truck in primer. by the time i got back to the front primer was "dry". changed the gun to mack red i found at the shop and repeated the process. wouldn't say it looked like a million bucks= maybe 750 K (from a distance of course) LOL. quick brush and silver paint and all the chrome window trim was "brand new".. the fun days ..

if it's almost all the way out and stopping i would look on top side for a line hanging it up.

never saw a removal requiring clutch assy removal, have had times pressure plate needed loosening -- very rare. had one occasion removal trans would go 1/2 way and dead stop. check all over, (so i thought)no lines attached , fork rotated enough . after a long time= embarrassed to say actual ;LOL .. a small pebble/ rock was on the ground jamming trans jack wheel. rolled back and forth till the rock stopped it. EVERY removal after that the floor was swept, cleaned with air hose.LOL, top crossmembers or compressor line on top had a habit of catching trans , stopping removal also. have seen a pilot bearing frozen to input shaft , would jam the trans from coming out.how far is the unit separating from eng before stopping?

units looking real good. i miss the old walk-behinds i had. suppose to go look at some 60 + yr old " inventory " in a barn this coming friday/saturday. trying not to get my hopes up. might even be an ole mack in there ; doubt it. would have been this week-end. holiday changed things. it's an "addiction" LOL; catch the fever you can't stop. some have iron poor blood and those such as myself have old iron in my blood.

how were we suppose to know back then to save everything to make $$$$ yrs later. the list is endless. cars.trucks. toys. .10 cent hotwheel toys are worth a fortune today. all the mack brochures thrown away when dealership was sold are$15.00 -25.oo a piece ; and the list goes on. beautiful H model; large number of B-75's at the time were large money ($1000.oo ) what would i do with it thought back then.

(1) = i would definitely acquire the right and proper copper washers ;sanding ?? . (2) - confused as to blowing air through return line. a pound or two of air to the fuel tank sends fuel to the engine -air in return line would send fuel to tank,,

let's all hope for the best. greatly appreciated if you keep the forum updated. alot of good people here try to help solve others mechanical issues .

check valve on the pump having the return line to tank malfunction. added info of no immediate restart vs proper start after sitting over night changes diagnostic approach, ?? try shut down and put the fuel pedal down right after shut down . not good to raise rpms ON shut down .

i would still go with the bleed back theory . when were the fuel filters changed ? even if the primary filter was screwed up ( gasket/ hair crack etc ) there would be some dampness . anything after the transfer pump would show fuel leak from pressure. another situation which could be a simple fix by so many on this site if we/ they were there to see it.

mechanical cable shut off- with cable all the way in for run mode, is there still at least 1/4 in to spare by handle. meaning cable has "slack" enough for fuel to obtain full open? or at pump end ;; where cable goes through lever fitting . outer cable housing broke any where . did you try when it won't start to physically move pump lever by hand to confirm full travel

a big THANK YOU to your son for the interest in WWII . the world lost another Hero . the last surviving Medal of Honor recipient recently passed away. 98 yrs old.

according to the small print news flashes on tv this am. this government just spent 3 BILLION dollars of yours and mine to preorder vaccine doses for the winter. bet there's no back order on that crap. magine the pockets being filled . drug company CEO's are getting bonus checks in the millions. workin man/women can't get parts or shoes. so sorry grandkids.

'79 =electrical shut off ?not cable if i remember ;;; weak switch ? ether start enough to pressure switch to open , clean gallon jug with diesel fuel and short hose to suction side if transfer pump. run unit for a minute or two . runs /idles shut it down and try restart. if it starts i'd be looking at the lines and hoses to tank.

guess it's another reason people rent don't buy in todays world. i had a can of R-12 yrs back after 12 was called " environmentally not good", the price sky rocketed - no where near the prices you mentioned for 134. such a sad world .

assuming the new plastic check valves and springs were installed correctly. and brass washers under plugs ( or possible hand pump) were new or in good shape had been installed;; i go with bleeding fuel back due to air leak in fuel system. can't be after hand pump; that's pressure. before pump is suction. did you road test after it's running ? idle over an hr might not be enough on system check for rough running? all broken plastic parts of check valve accounted for ? possible pieces in pump??

so glad i'm out of it . many years back i opened a sealed box of pistons ::mack parts from mack ==one piston head was missing . no signs of it ever being put in box from factory. point is back then such a screw up was considered very very rare. reading your situation and others -- so glad i retired . 675 for 12 studs ; could have done a rebuild complete for that back then

MAKE SURE THERE ARE WHEEL CHOCKS BEHIND AND IN FRONT OF ALL WHEELS BEFORE REMOVING CANS. take off 4 cans nothing is holding truck in place i DON'T trust in gear.

i sure had some foul words for those screwin freeze out plugs ; quite a few had to be drilled out . no doubt they worked better then push ins. lot of block heaters were installed in the day . magnet close by and many holes drill in center slot to split plug.

confirms the theory , we live in a modern day world of parts changers and dealers cleaning house of the working man.

you mean like the old B models had !! LOL couldn't help 🤣myself

'75 with L cab has my vote ; not saying rest aren't trophy worthy just favor the '75