mechohaulic

you DID NOT loosen the four bolts holding the gear to pump?? NO of course not. LOL . making double/ triple sure the keyway stays in place. a very clean socket ;3/4 drive just large enough to clear shaft threads works. light tapping continuing to watch shaft key stays in place not rotating out of key slot. slight tapping till enough threads show. tap/tighten will bring drive gear into place.

fortunately for you , the Family history is more motivation then most have. to just buy a truck close and stare at it at shows is great . having your goals of keeping history alive will conquer all. will take time . being your location shows FL while searching for a new england fleet / info makes as your finding out more challenging. being in the NY area going to local shows would possibly gain info just by conversation. I worked at a CT Mack dealer '69=75 ; can't recall that fleet name .also to duplicate the R model , any pictures of an actual truck would help. single axle/ tandem etc. drive train wouldn't be as important. your goal is appearance duplication

B-73 topic closing in on 2000 post . 73 defiantly a museum piece .👍

another day of learning. can't recall anyone "scoring" axles. makes a lot of sense . never had a fleet/owner do the scoring process. since the number of broken axles is relatively small, is scoring asking for situations?? same as cutting glass= score the glass it breaks on the line. Father was the best at glass cutting=back on topic .

the switch on the left which has the spade terminal unplugged and a possible wire hanging looks more to be a sender from a kysor AC/ shutter system. I'd plug it on terminal see if any thing happens. red line covering clear picture; but seems to be a wire was spliced into white sender .my first place of tracing why/ where they go.

I forgot all about those updated buzzers!! along with a lot more. older buzzers were mounted above clutch pedal on dash frame work. rectangular 1x2 black metal box with( 2 ) TWO wires attached. picture one Gunny65 posted of new valve would/should be brake light switch . picture two of gunny and Joe H should be the low air sender. which is what I tried to describe earlier as the single pole 3/4X 1 white sender. from what is described in terms of the hacked wiring on this unit ;it will be a long tedious project.

and now we all know where the inspiration came from for the B model logo on the Watt's /BMT forum site . LOL ;;; with high hopes should this AMT model come to be , lets hope it will duplicate the logo

with both axles removed take two long broom handles or what ever round wooden poles available. TAKES GOOD TEAM WORK !! slowly push the wooden handles in from both sides same time. hoping piece is large enough one pushes on broken piece while other holds just enough tension against it . basically sandwich the broken piece between two handles. if successful , put broken piece in place against axle determine just how much is missing. I know proper method is removing carrier for flush/ inspect. when on side of road ; not best place to remove carrier. and when owner doesn't want to pay for wrecker. I know been there done that. challenge is that space ring gear/ spiders to axle housing. clean drain pan , remove drain plug chunks fall out disregard every thing above ; your screwed.

sitting in the background reading AND learning on this one. am amazed at the sentence RE- USE IT. and also the follow up comments of separating the three pieces. in the day , after extended periods of use ,the three pieces were mated for life. one cracked (couldn't be re welded) then 3 pieces were purchased. do newer style have the expansion ring on 2 end internal pieces for a seal ??

you might consider hooking back up/ replacing the buzzer. 1= while you are diagnosing the system as wires are disconnected you will know when right sender is found when buzzer stops ; unless you have a helper watching light. 2- for a safety issue having a properly working buzzer could alert you while concentrating on driving. low air indicator should NOT be on brake valve- that would be stop lights. after finding faulty sender and waiting for new sender you can disconnect the buzzer.

NO == the switch on the parking brake valve is for when unit still running but parked. Pull parking brake knob ,rear lights are suppose to go on. one of those ideas from politicians for a safer world! the low air pressure light on without buzzer : taking in to consideration the buzzer does work would be wrong pressure switch . did you have truck running and drain air tanks down checking buzzer operation?? I would go with buzzer not functioning (disconnected due to constant noise) with a faulty low air sender. one sender should control both light and buzzer .

tried to see more pictures : didn't happen. not to be "Mr. negative ", study the picture closer.. 1- for an '86 it has a one piece hood meaning it should have the lower rear fender section seam= doesn't. 2= check the hood hinges which should be black looks to be white indicating a repaint. T/A thought would be a Tag Axle ; making this a single axle drive with pusher axle ?? not saying it isn't a good unit , just one to be careful of. a vin number might help

another challenge in todays world is the complexity of everything. went for motor oil recently ; need to be a scientist to figure right one. oven light bulb totally confusing. nothing simple anymore . things not only simpler back then BUT the parts people didn't rely on a computer to answer questions ; they knew the answer. take away things such as goggle (which is good ) and the world is lost. have noticed when going in to a major store ; doesn't matter name either, ask a worker for a certain item ; first thing they do is take out the phone and look it up to find which aisle and shelf it's on. no one cares about pride or interest in their job it seems. it's just a job. sad. back in the day when a part had a new superseded number it usually meant an improvement was made . today it means part was made cheaper.

next week you will find out the typewriter is rare and sought after worth $$$$. where does the DM progress fit in ? guess like most the "to do list "comes first ! no list done and the "bark " you hear will be louder then the DM exhaust LOL

poorly

I knew that ; just didn't want to upset the teacher !LMAO ,, not only can't access bottom row of cover bolt with pump in the way ; but gaskets broke major challenge to clean completely the gasket behind injection pump.

appreciate the "days ago " and NOT years ago. I feel younger already. LOL yes we did use clothes PINS to hold lifters when side covers were removed

off pressure switch mounted in line near parking brake valve is what I was referring to when I asked about the removable top dash panel. you can see it from top and it's a cramp to change. remove brake valve knob, loosen valve =still a pain to access even with plastic air lines.

thanks for replies , but "box badly scratched " : at this point adds to confusion. was box #1 scratched and replaced ?? is there a problem with PS pump; does it have a changeable filter ? if so did you change and inspect filter for contamination? gear /rotary PS pump failing contaminating system?? without visual hands on inspection ; let's hope someone having similar unit chimes in .

seems rarely do you find someone saying " it's been sitting here tooo long, get it out of here for $?????. ". as you say parts individual sold bring in more $$$ all the history/ unavailable else where parts gone to scrap yard for couple bucks. looook at the topic biggest Mack ever built. had not been for individual concerned for history; the 100 tonner would torched by now.

I've seen people complain of steering box problems only to learn it was the u-joint on the steering column bad. not trying to be a pain - in - a== ; like going to a dr saying "I don't feel good" a lot of questions follow attempting to narrow the problem .

what was it 's problem and why/ who disassembled it ?looking for what. can you use the vin and located /purchase the proper box ?

join the "crowd" . thinking of finding full time job so I can rest. only situation is knees don't cooperate much . now I'm volunteered to baby sit 3-4 days a week !! 10 am= 2:30/3 pm . what can I expect to get done with those mid day hrs ???LOL

one pictured is what was on truck after slight adaptation and didn't work in what way ? hard steer/ no steer ? did anyone put hyd lines on wrong? why was it disassembled ? do you have "original" or other steering box ? I know it's a lot of questions ; BUT not being with the parts/ unit makes it difficult to have correct answer just lots of questions.

sure hope a picture or more will follow this topic, old R model ???? vin off the door, any history ,parting out ??? that bad ;it can't be saved for resto by some of the members here. I see topic says '73 ;;that's a good yr to save . possibly one piece hood. transmission ==one stick or two ??