mechohaulic

yes Sir You have found it. can't figure this computer stuff too well for posting things as web sites, does look to have many items of interest. THANK YOU for showing correct site.

not associated with me. found this on auction zip. winter associates auctioneers has auction this saturday having many vintage auto related material. special interest is lot # 270 having Mack Bouchers, other lots = other trucks. sure hope this is helpful and didn't mess up someone here bidding. items are in Plainville, CT.

also keep in mind; since that service manual was written :: mid 60's ==oil technology has changed drastically. hopefully others on here having vintage trucks/ engines will provide insight as to modern day recommendations for oil.

wear ring has to go on far enough for flywheel to sit on crankshaft. after the lead seal ; (yea I know = how far back that is)! was replaced by updated rubber seal/ ring combo; install tools came later. bet not many on here used the flywheel to "set" wear ring ! do what you have to . ring installer was basically a wheel seal installer modified. have also seen a rear seal leak not due to poor seal/ ring but due to someone previously using a sharp chisel to cut/ remove ring. now no matter how many rings/seals installed the oil leaks slightly due to channel groove on crank between seal/ crank. as the BMT pro 😇 has earlier stated:: small amount of RTV between ring and crank seals many imperfections.

these latest pictures favor more the B C R idea. 1- those radiator front side panels look to be VERY EARLY change over or homemade. solid metal work not factory metal with imitation grooves pressed in. 2- other then someone installed an alternator, engine goes to the "B" model family. early intake manifold/ much older oil filter.3- radiator smaller B style having framework around it going to fire wall. 4- older style shutter stat. 5- oil fill on front valve cover; not side of block,6- non turbo? . 7- radiator fill =older version. 7- starter might be on passenger side; can't see in picture. still a real nice unit.

small piece left side of vent hole is the challenge. could be the work of an impeller; but hole is to clear cut. BMT " doctors "require more specific info please. is it leaking / does it wobble, and thanks for picture does help a lot. the brazing part ?????🙄

the "adjustable " grease fitting should be on top making the hole on lower driver side, which would make sense it's location. however it does appear to be a rough cut slot or just ruff housing casting. 100 % agreement with Geoff = purpose of the hole. what we are NOT told is whether it is leaking or just noticed the hole, by picture it could be clean from leaking or washed for photo session. if it had bad bearings on pump shaft to carve that channel; there should have been some serious noise at pump. take belts off and check wobble of pump shaft for quick diagnostic

first started reading the post; was hit with "wall of confusion", the ENDTF 673 part. F was explained in following sentences. I agree 100% on your idea of faulty gauge and tapping another in system to verify first . did the high pressure just start? how long have you had this unit ? did your change over to different oil ? ever do oil sample analyze? side note :: what model truck ?

thanks for the video. as was mentioned, not cost effective to acquire the trailer since it's not original to the Mack . still a shame to see it go to torches and scrap.

my metal building (30x50) with insulation had basically same air set=up with the compressor in a 45ft trailer parked tight to building;; less noise . piping (3/4 pipe) coming down both sides of shop went to a tee fitting at bottom with 12 in +- extensions having drain valves. air tool fittings were at the tee . any moisture coming down side wall pipes went lower then air tool fittings. also directly off compressor was a manifold consisting of water separator/ oiler/ regulators. painting things such as a B -80 worked well . everything in the building rusted but the air was dry.

may have been told "it only needs one to start" BUT it sure would start alot better with two(or more) goood batteries. gas engine relies on spark to fire. a diesel needs combustion. good grade of fuel and spinning fast enough to combust. AND I KNOW there are those diesels that turn slow and fire right up. based on experience older= less combust== takes a lot of spark to get the "cylinder " hot🤣😱

this country said good bye to one of the outstanding Heros that gave us the freedoms we (had) have . the last surviving service man from the U SS Arizona pearl harbor attack 12/07/41 has passed away. forever grateful are the AMERICAN people for his and those who gave it their all then and to this day.

mine are ordered. thanks

don't think they have too much cell phone time in front of a paver= if any it's limited and calling in for load schedule. luck out if your dumping into a single dump paver== I never had the honor. before the days of chrome/ polished alum wheels ; it was back up to spreader, hyd pump brought the rollers of spreader into rear truck wheels to pull it as you raised body slowly . there were the few that would not pull a paver cause it made marks on rear painted rims.

in the day ,I would "sweat bullets" on the up hill grade paving projects. pulling a manual spreader then having the side extensions out!! watch the speed/ body height under trees. has to be a lot less stress having a self-powered paving machine. takes some of the pressure off truck driver. can spend more time concentrating on dump body.

thanks for the update pictures AND 5/5 info . show is up street from candle shop ;not in their yard if I recall. drop wife off (if we are still together) at candle shop then to show I go. how did the toolbox idea end up ??

would not go with definitely a BCR;; your DM also has radiator side panels if I recall correctly. also number one R model ==R607T- 1001 has the side panels since that is one very early R having many B model parts. HAPPY EASTER to You also Sir.

study the pictures show a lot of B model; or confusing could be a very early R. front axle hub caps/ early style R heavy one piece hood and the Mack name front and sides. can't judge by the interior== a BCR comes completely groomed (if ordered as such).

another possibility in conversation it may be a '64 not '54. was involved in two B C R conversions ; this could be a BCR. which for info stands for B model converted to R model. does have the B model radiator -looking at the two front side spacers used in very early R's still having B model components. much like a '66 DM being restored. on BMT.😇

nice unit. question I have is location of two speed button on shift lever? it's on left side closer to driver. sitting here splitting the make believe button and trying to recall; buttons were mounted on right side of lever making it easy for 3rd and 4th fingers to pull lever up/ down. guess using thumb works .

am I seeing a wood floor in your shop?? that must keep much dampness out ;; nice . excellent work on the B also.

similar to a 20-speed quad becomes an 18 speed , ratios close or conflict making unnecessary or impractical to use . doesn't say they can't be used. out come ????

ok !! now what the heck is a potetchiometer??? don't be using these big words on us old people. LOL

as stated by one of the BMT master Techs :: the sender must be clocked right . have seen gauges which stopped mid way due to sender installed at wrong position, larger barrel tanks were good for this. float will go to empty spot= float up to just above 1/2, higher then 1/2the float gets stuck internally on inside barrel . adjustable senders were made too long to reach bottom then install with float angle side to side not front to back.

long term disruption of economics due to the "accident" will be felt for a long time. airplane accidents don't take out enough lives for the idiots behind these events. with election on the horizon , I'd expect a few more disruptions will take place. according to news ;;investigators didn't board ship for over 24 hrs. number one red flag!!