mechohaulic

once again this proves the old statement == never tooo old to learn something new. wasn't aware of a Mack non-air 6 speed pattern transmission

6 speeds on a SINGLE STICK ???

Moparmike don't give up on BMT . diagnostic solutions are challenging when not physically there for hands on checking.

have seen "mechanics" do a brake adjustment having released 1 1/4 distance , set parking brake shows 1 1/2 throw. conclusion " brakes ok only throw 1/4 in. apply service brake throw 2in. bad brake chamber not applying full pressure with parking brake . chalk on floor to write measurement or on unit tooo many numbers for me to remember back then

want to get really technical=checking brake system should be a three check process; Ready 1-distance from can base to clevis pin center when brakes released== 2- same place of measure can to pin center BUT with brake pedal/trolly down (service brake applied) 3- same place of measure WITH parking brake applied. reason for three times ; can tell brake throw vs released ALSO measure with parking brake applied will indicate a bad or weak brake can which having a broken internal spring usually punctures a diaphragm . newer chamber have a red throw rod which indicates it's traveling tooo far. the zip ties are the best way to go. manual adjusters got my vote. any checking of brake pedal yet ??

almost looks like there is still rail road mechanism under front combined with the dump turn table rig ; clearance might be less then minimum to put a drop light under to see the transmission never mind remove it. just sayin

started the unit NOT stared the unit.

when someone doesn't know the pedal has to be depressed to adjust and think it's frozen then takes an air hammer to move ring (NOT ME) the tabs will/do break off. have delt with stuck/ gummed up adjuster not moving. have taken out the Y lock sprayed the sh-t out of pressure plate/ ring THEN stared the unit. some times it worked. didn't work do a quick dump clutch peddle rapidly. shock at times got things moving.

fly wheel stays stationary the large screw driver/ bar or proper clutch tool (as Joey mentioned) is used to turn the adjusting ring which the Y lock held securely. modern day pressure plates have a spring loaded 5/8 hex which takes the place of Y lock. it a challenge when the Y lock which at times needs a little persuasion to be remove falls in to the bell housing . had road call where the Y lock fell out /lost. took a lot of road side adjusting to get unit back running.

ALL bets going to the treadle (brake) valve is stuck/ sticking. hammered pressure during quick stop !! manually move the brake peddle by hand up/down ===back forth how ever you call it == how much slack/ free play does it have??? floor mount :: does the roller free spin or drag across the plunger causing it to jam. the dry plunger not traveling completely . rubber boot still there intact or have the usual rip allowing crud oxidation.

You can do it Bob, you have the technology . soon it will be ready for paint and truck show next spring ..

bad diaphram was a thought but earlier post states brake chamber replaced on LFR; not saying another can isn't leaking .possibly the (R) valve for that axle gummed up hard brake application fouled it up; but that would screw up both wheels.

now this adds a new road to travel with the statement "pedal goes to floor and not stopping". if the plunger was oxidized and stuck the brakes should be partially applied; which apparently they are not. or plunger NOT going all the way down to activate brake valve, combine that with only the left rear front wheel acting up! three other wheels ( plus steer axle )should stop unit. I would look at the pedal; possibly remove it , hope alum bracket doesn't break ;clean all parts. hold the phone;;; old school thinking again== is this pedal floor mounted as in olden days or hang from under dash ??

don't know Jojo seems to be in NC ;; you up for a road call ???🤣😂😱.past my bed time , I can't go LMAO

reread original;; new chamber installed, if the push rod on chamber had to be cut ;;;; where measurements take with BOTH CANS in same mode==fully extended or compressed. have seen chambers cut when one is measured released (still on truck) new one measured (no air) extended. could be the new noise. and explain no movement on new can. shaft tooo long . i still go with jumped cam.

does a 2000 still have removable backing plates OR any at all?? block the unit by tires NOT only in gear; jack up the problem wheel . brakes off /backing plate removed , check wheel operation manually spin wheel; set brakes /check wheel then release, you got the idea ... remove clevis pin in slack work slack manual while someone else spins the wheel ; what happens .

"driver side rear front " stated would indicate tandem axle , might have a service valve per axle based on being a 2000?? can't recall excessive brake pressure blowing out a service valve. have seen excessive pressure locking up/slowing down brake application when a cam stands up or jumps the shoe rollers and jams.

did you check brake lining??? heavy slam on brakes with worn lining there is a possibility the cam jumped over . or no movement due to cam standing straight up on shoes won't return . back the slack adjuster off far as possible ; might take a little effort. hit or miss parts changing gets expensive

ordered mine.

now there's a thought ; with all the fine works of mechanical engineering and rebuilds shown on BMT; what a heck of a calendar could be produced.

a masterpiece such as the B-73 should be on not only phone but Christmas cards or at LEAST a truck calendar . and the royalty rights might help the expenses of the build. a truck calendar with the B-73 and B42 side by side as was posted here would be the best December photo of a truck calendar.

I still have the Brockway pictures taken in Cortland NY this summer . working on posting.

could this be the "start" to the space age vehicle design of the future. ?? what would ole Henry Ford think !

forgot to question :: do the '06's have the one gauge with dual needles =red/green ?????? I'm thinking old school two gauges not the modern "crap" gauges . have seen many dual needle gauges screw up. if you are the main driver knowing primary needle is off 15-20 on a positive side and relief valve isn't blowing off== I'd run it ; not a hazard.

drained system with primary gauge showing 15-20 psi ;; did you tap gauge ; it should drop to 0. it does then build air back both systems should register same . primary jumps back to 15-20 off replace it. could be technical and put a good working gauge on primary tank it self to verify before buying parts . JUST REMEMBER TO DRAIN PRIMARY COMPLETELY BEFORE REMOVING ANY PLUGS