mechohaulic

news this am ; and still taking place is an accident on I-84 which two tractor trailers collided went off the road and into a pond!! one is upside down .. how the h=lll can two units going same direction collide ?? short of a miracle if driver survived upside down submerged. years back saw what was left of a brockway which went over embankment into river. ended up straight up and down. trailer crushed the cab to less than 1 1/2 ft. driver never had a chance. think I'm off topic again, sorry.

from what I'm seeing in CT lately; it doesn't take snow or rain;;could be a bright sunny day and the idiots still don't know how to drive. 3 lane roads become 4 as idiots race up the shoulder to get in front of 2 or 3 cars.

don't know I would go the route of being worried of play in cam bushings; keep track of brake operation more important. not knowing particulars of unit such as how old brakes are / daily driver/ seasonal operation = unit can be side lined for complete brakes if needed/ just how much play bushing actually have/etc. now this will have people wondering=== depending on answers to previous questions AND brake cam set up:: I have on cam housings which are long enough and providing grease fitting operation NOT hampered have removed slack taken proper size pipe going over brake cam tapped old plastic bushing into cam housing. all the bushing will do is float around on cam then installed a new bushing /replace slack adjuster. basically a "temporary fix "till allowable time from complete .. won't be able to do this red neck technic IF the cam housing has a shoulder inside.

now there's a positive for my morale; I still remembered it was an 1 1/8th lock nut. ambitious person could take an old short screw driver attach (almost said braze it ) a piece of 1/16th ? flat stock long enough to reach across the exhaust adjuster to end of screw driver . some times it was challenging to use flat screw driver to hold only one side of adjuster while tightening 1 1/8 lock nut. as with many fancy/expensive tools today = not using them regular why spend the $$$$: make one.

most were happy with the innovation of tail gate spreaders, challenge was pay attention as you drove down the street while raising dump body. todays modern slide in the body self contained sand spreader took a while for small towns back then to afford.

bad as memory seems to be getting; I DO remember neighbor worked for town road dept:: with my Father as a helper during winter storms , one would drive the dump truck full of sand while other climbed in the dump AND SHOVELED the sand on the road as it was moving. there was a routine (not a watch ) to know how far on the route they went then stopping to switch ;; not that the truck had much for heat = still warmer then out in the dump . I know it's true - watched the truck go by our house a number of storms.

thanks for update;; I just paid a lot more for an E9-400 and another Mack conversion cab VS your catalog numbers. I'm backlogged on a number of builds at the moment , but am definitely interested . not a fan of 3-D printing ; resins castings look positive..

it's ONLY for exhaust rocker having enlarged dia. due to oil controlling engine brake operation. flip the "brake "switch on ; oil filled the rocker cyl to remove any free clearance ; thus holding exhaust valve open; results of which were very little holding back and a pathetic exhaust noise.

is this an engine with the dyna tard brake; having large (1 1/8 th ?) lock nut ??if so NO you don't need fancy tool, being around when these first came out (dam there's the age thing again) ;; engines came before the tools. open end wrench and screw driver to adjust. fancy tool just "made life easier" . and it was a pain - in - a==s to use.

BUT also === a bad slave cyl WOULD NOT make the clutch hard to push; would be a slower reacting clutch operation. air assist would have a treadle style pedal NOT a manual operated clutch pedal. PLEASE NOTE these responses are based on very old school methods. thank you.

come on !! sure you can . turn the vent windows ALL the way and drive faster. guess wimpy wasn't only on the popeye cartoons. the world has changed.

never had a good word to say of those slacks == so I won't say. go back to manual slacks == but of course I would go back to dial telephones .

have to apologize for thread stepping ; senior citizen . along with memory failure of many thoughts; the S would imply tandem "straight truck / lighter duty "? an SX- heavy duty==ST- tractor . ??? R685 ST --- twin screw tractor ;;; R685 S -- twin screw ;;; straight /lighter chassis ==R685SX --- HD chassis (I know bad example ) r685SX would be RD.

think I told of one ole timer (since passed) telling me how to drive an old white conventional from CT to NY for deliveries he had lit candles on the dash for defrosting the windows

I am !!🤣. one of my early mentors told story of driving chain drive bulldog (yep AC Mack) from CT to maine for well drilling job;;; took three days to get there.

what did you end up with for exhaust system ?? can see why you want to eliminate muffler it had = blocks right side of mirror view. picture shows one fuel tank with step on passenger side;; is that what you are staying with or second tank going on right side ???

two are backing off ? does this imply these are on drive axle and there are two other wheels which work correctly ?? one of two axles? both slacks on same axle ? what brand of slacks are used? are slacks mounted working backwards?? size wrench used to adjust ??? 9/16 = 7/16 ?? auto or manual adjusters ??

if two pry bars don't work then for me , it would be gloves/ goggles and 5 in die grinder with cut-off wheel. slice and dice the outer cage then gingerly cut inner . less heat and flame . couple slices on inner sometimes is enough to pry it off. have lucked out with a bearing remover tool wedged behind bearing and tighten; then the BFH for persuasion.

that A I crap will NEVER match old school methods. . can only give you a 97 grade Jojo == you forgot to add "and I paint it when done "!! LMAO

then there are tec questions needing answers which may help ::: 1= have both PTO's been on there??2- has one been recently installed ?? 3- can you engage a PTO without it's application (pump/ hose etc) ?? 4- if so is there a difference in noise with either being engaged ?? 5- to shim requires specs and shims .

not always the easiest; I would get out the ole length of 3/4 heater hose while it's running (and no one will get in) ;; on the creeper and listen for a better location on the whine . case some youngster is wondering the heater hose is method from days gone by before all the fancy tech toools. one end to your best ear other follow along transmission (NOT follow the trans) I know how these sick minds think here, LOL it's difficult due to noise travels ; in some cases you can narrow down noise location. if the PTO is in whine mode at start up , it should be hot and louder after running. 100% agreement with the PTO idea.

is it possible to trace the lines going in /out of vale? not a treadle valve from ole man experience. possible to have tad more info on unit? leak constant? leak when other systems activated/ deactivated ? did you take it apart ; might be bad o-ring?

hoard was name of girlfriend of yrs past. if this is legit . it's the best Christmas present ever. why is it so difficult to match 6 numbers. come on powerball. not only the units ; possible spare parts inventory!

seems to me many variables need mentioning ; such as is this a part-time parade unit' are you the only driver ? why thoughts of change-over ? is a spare diesel engine available ? etc

system should have a filter, by chance did you change fluid and filter ?? going by all the torque specs given ; hopefully wheel might feel better just make sure adjustments aren't TOO tight. after driving and system heats up and expands ; wheel doesn't bind up while driving creating serious situation. tad amount of free play needed.