mechohaulic

B C R short term stands for (B)model (C)onverted to (R)model. with changing times then as earlier written ; many contractors /truck owners had older B models which cab wise were showing some age yet the lower end:: rails drive line had many miles left. much like farmers of the day , equipment was repaired ;not replaced. Mack ingeniously came up with the conversion idea. also I'm sure it had to do with promoting the R model . the two I became involved in building were B model dumps which mysteriously caught fire in a garage and only to the cab section. alum fuel pedals were a blob of melted alum on the transmission. remember the cabs being unpainted outside but fully groomed inside. memory loss on the cab/hood mounting change over. was a couple of years ago== 1972.1974 ?????

that's a short wheelbase for sure. back in the day of weight laws changing , more for 10 wheel dumps ;shortys like that came in with 3rd axle where battery box is. small size tires just enough to pass the laws.

can't recommend parts; but sure hope the BMT crew gets to see a picture!! RD886 SX . any model with the 8 in it (B-81 / DM 800/ RD800 ) has my interest and vote.

congratulations to Ray Noel ; the person in the video for having the interest to pass on history . I know him well ; real good guy. THANKS Ray.

as spoken on here numerous times : back then things were simpler with way more common sense . cab conversions didn't require computers and miles of electrical wiring. that hood is very heavy to tilt, radiator being smaller then opening has the two side extension panels. that front Mack emblem should have an armed guard; LOL don't know if another exists. always wondered if serial # 1002 still around ? many yrs back a truck newspaper had an ad for the first U model U607T 1001 for sale .must be scrap by now.

Thanks for the pictures. I plotted the course on the map this am. 1- it was late in am.2- wasn't totally sure of the show to warrant the 2 plus hr drive. 3- never figured the turn out as the pictures showed. maybe next year. that DM is great looking. certainly don't want to be put on the spot with some one asking :: " which do I like better the DM or B73. !!!! they are both number one (in their own class).

B C R's weren't "invented "yet. that unit was only suppose to be a demonstrator, not for sale truck. the R's were still in the trial stage . while at Mack waterbury. I assisted on two B C R conversions early '70's. with the R's gaining popularity and the days when things were repaired not junked and new bought many B models starting to rust out from age and new England salt. you didn't scrap a good drivetrain/chassis ; just updated. someone at Mack had some smarts to think of the BCR. instead of manufacture/stock B cabs ; make use of this new style cab called an R.

have been sent a text from a friend making me aware of a short 5 minute video on youtube of good ole #1 Mack ::R607T=1001. as stated in the past my knowledge of posting pictures on here is limited. I did find the video simply going to Youtube video first R model Mack produced. I believe this is from this year at the show before Macungie. few facts are off by the narrator. felt good looking at the open hood and knowing I once rebuilt that engine, has since been done again years later by John (Rocky) Rockwell. the replacement to #1 was a "69 R611T -ENDT673 with jake and 13 speed RR. notice the B model shell supporting the radiator. basically a B-model with R cab.truck originally had a white top half with lower gold color cab. hood original/ doors have been replaced. does have an electrical issue ; reason for cover on floor between seats

dead center work steering back/forth making sure not tooo tight and binding

the superliner / Talbert combo a first gear ? I see you use tamiya paint also; great product, have had issues using another brand spray. do you use the airless compressor/ gun much. bought one while back for a couple of important projects haven't got that far yet. work bench looks amazingly organized; how does the tamiya super thin glue with brush seem to work ? have seen it in hobby shops just Leary of the brush VS squirt bottles with needle point.

don't recall too many steel nose having the hood intake. your picture shows an air cleaner having dual sections and two discharge pipes. one for engine other for tip turbine cooler way most were set up.

Have A safe and positive time off.✈️😁

had this truck been running daily in the mud/dirt etc top vent being clogged ;pressure slim chance. the 73 in better then new factory clean = no clogged vent . strange things do happen in the world of mechanics. slight drip : maybe. massive amount which stops with transmission still holding oil ?? just puts that slight fear going down the road :will it happen again, miles from house". foreign matter finds it's way between seal THEN leaves ?? side note: received a picture showing one of Mahan's Macks heading up rte61;; trip to Matt 's in Bethlehem ??

much bigger.. a husband / father paid the price. never heard any conversation in terms of what type/caliber bullet was taken from the deceased father?? a "assassins bullet or a snipers ? people in high places are hushed over that in fear of their own lives.

tri-plex having a push clutch;; throw out fork has the finger on bottom which pushes against lower counter shaft equipped with clutch brake assembly ??? old 3 piece clutch brake (2 fiber 1 steel intermediate plate ) or updated 1 piece brake ?? input shaft have the hole with short pin acting as seal ? have seen clogged vents , none of which where bad enough to pressurize transmission to point of pumping that much oil then stop. but clogged vent will be #1 thought

another case of so much history gone for ever just to make a couple bucks for scrap steel. very few gave thoughts of taking pictures to preserve what is now the past. the picture of the goose neck loaded with the u blade had to be a sight in it's self. LOL

sure would be great to see a picture of the old Mack with a1693 in it ;bet I'm not the only BMT member thinking that way . especially if it's "nothing to look at ". makes it more interesting. another bit of info which would make a great book. A car over loaded and needing a push. the way things were done many years back ;none of which required a computer. the good ole fun days!!!

nope figured wrong (again). not same . wondered about the mentioning of gear box. worn marks on shift rails definitely indicates source of oil leakage. F model shift lever stayed on the tower also . was a simpler design. brain cells now attempting to remember which cab over had the shift lever attached to cab which connected lever to linkage when cab lowered by a ball and socket arrangement ??? think it was the small MB??

great positive topic ; after 16 yrs , we had to say good bye to our shelter found puppy husky shepherd. being tooo old for another puppy and not wanting another senior dog to say goo d bye to; I have 4 fish in a tank; 18-?? (sometimes 50} ducks that fly in for swim in back yard pond; 5- 14 wild turkeys that just started coming back = one having 8 little babies following and a self made brook pond holding 50-70 ?? minnows which now are used to being fed . 40 lbs of food weekly. if I knew for sure our living status location : might be moving due to landlords divorcing , a gray cat or two is my hopes. knees can't walk a dog anymore . two small cats are fun to watch. picture posting still a challenge ;working on it .

have seen some with so much slop in linkage ; after centering the lever going to flip hyd down lever, shift lever moved and away goes the range selector button on the shift knob. oooops

I'm relaying those instructions based on the F or G models, CruiseLiner cab /tower should be simaliar. ?

am I correct to understand it IS an outboard seal as earlier units?? if so I have used the old seal cleaned up as a go between for installing new seals. old seal face to face with new; tapping on old seal , some what a buffer sone . have an easier time with install since you can basically hold the two seals together VS one hand holding a hammer another hand holding the new seal another hand -- wait that's 3 . any how seal to seal works

my bet is on worn shirt linkage u-joints as above mentioned. 1 &2 are over towards seat ; worn u-joints would have the lever hitting seat preventing shift fork from proper alignment in transmission tower. 3 & 4 are easier since shift lever is in middle . cab up AND SECURED hold shift linkage going to transmission while moving shift lever. should be able to check for worn u-joints /bushings.. check shift lever side ways movement with cab down then do same check with cab up . wager side movement up cab is greater .

you can watch everyone else do a task/skill ;; the do it yourself is the only way to learn how . welding is a skill having many positives. to build/repair on your own is the best. for real fun start with a stick rod then advance to a wire-feed. other way around is like high school before grammar school. first time welding for me was putting a sliding 5th wheel on a R-685st which was going to haul a chemical tanker!! talk about sweating . LOL.. 7lbs of stick rod.

OH NO ;;; another sick puppy on the loose. LOL LOL LMAO. after a hot muggy day around here with roads/bridges washed out everywhere .. that reply set the laughter for me THANKS !!!