mechohaulic

as an old man i used clean motor oil. todays technical world must have new and improved lubes

also I was never that critical of the 1/2turn. there was always a plus-minus. another plus of the GOOD DAYS :: didn't have a sensor telling a computer == hey theres a stud on head # one that has a head stud 1/2 pound off on torque. did a slant 6 cummins having corner studs at 325 lbs . didn't have concern if the studs moved ;;LOL

don't recall a stud turning that much in torquing process. when "book"says back off 1/2 turn , a lubed nut shouldn't tighten stud the full half turn back. for conversation sake, next engine you build , mark top of stud = check movement - let me(us) know. I ALWAYS took an air hose to each stud location before installing a slightly lubed stud. in most cases (when possible) engine always came back for retorque

Backing the studs out 1/2 turn was to allow for expansion under heat/ pressure. "in the day"it was common to lube the head studs. when the studs were installed and bottomed out ; thinking put them in tight was better:: turned out to be incorrect.. oil was in the bottom of the stud hole making a stud seem tight , in some cases (enough to bring notice) damage was done ; mostly head studs loosening up and gasket failure. have heard stories of head damage .

ALOT DIFFERENT😁

i sure hope my wife doesn't read that one . if she knows its ok to use the vibrations and still pry🤣🤣. I'lll never have any privacy. those batteries only last so long LOL

number one rule is SUPER CLEAN before taking top half of injector off. the screw slot you see is the adjusting screw for the injector setting/pressure. if the two are difficult (breaking b--ls). i would take off the valve covers before the water/ intake manifolds. alot of rags/towels what ever to keep rocker area VERY CLEAN from all the crud in the picture. a heel bar has more room from valve side. number two make sure every injector removed STILL HAS the brass/bronze washer attached . i always took a cardboard box upside down ; cut 6 slots and labeled each one ;;1-6 . as an injector is pulled; place it in the slot corresponding to the cyl it came from. makes life easier when you find an injector missing a bronze washer to locate the hole it came from. another try which im leary of stating is to double nut the injector studs; if they loosen will give less restriction to the rotating of the injector. there is ONLY 1/4'+- of thread . can't use to pressure inj out; it will screw up the stud or worse the head threads. it does work ;;I've done it .

guess that kills the idea of spinning it over to free an injector.

the shutters operated based on engine temp. never noticed but the fire trucks MAY HAVE eliminated the shutters to maintain cooler eng temps. for the most a fire truck spends engine time stationary ;goes up down the road but at a fire it's sits. there are a number of VERY knowledgeable fire truck personal on this site. many of which will prove my thoughts incorrect.

based on the picture, you have ALL the hold down inj nuts off. if you pull any inj that is free then put two nuts back on loose of the stuck one, the engine will spin over easier to possibly push the stuck ones lose. that's if the heel trick doesn't do it of course

if heel bar doesn't work ( most times it should ;; for me anyhow ) the actual injector puller screws on the top of the injector AFTER unscrewing the top where the return line fastens to. with a spare junk injector take the top outer housing off you can weld an adapter to it (style your preference ) use it as a puller by threading it on to the struck injector. or if your brave ;; loosen the two hold down nuts ;; leaving a full thread on the nuts of the stuck cyl;; spin the engine over. have lucked out and had injector push up enough to use a heel bar.

old post ; wondering what fire dept you were getting parts for

10 yrs later and the B81 still runs the highway. I was behind him on rte 63 last week.

this forum of Connecticut construction trucks is how I found this site. are there any pictures of companies such as :: allan Beard ::/ watertown construction{ they had a beautiful R-700 tractor). / Schiavi construction( red with superman style S graphics on door). E G Pugano. glad this post shows up after all the yrs ago it started.

looks similar to the R model Schiavi Construction used to haul their lowboy .

I haven't seen the underside of that style valve cover in years. still have the adjusting tools for lifters and injectors. the fun days for sure. to get all injectors to flip the same ; 4 the same not bad to match both sides :challenging

stealing the fenders off an LTL ;; that's worse then painting a mustache on the mona lisa ;;

well if sitting in the salt shed seems bad;; take a trip through CT . bring water and maybe food with you. it's a long slow ride as you pass one ; no two;no three and four maybe five trucks parked along the road (for construction). each truck having a "driver" either on a phone or sleeping. at least in the salt shed the road is open. this isn't middle of the nite ; during the prime time day traffic. traffic backed up for miles . pick a highway any one you will see it.

only remember seeing a very few on the east coast back in the day. the C O E had my vote; NOT if comparing to an F-700; it was not bad looking . had the pete 352 style box cab

now Your under pressure to get the green machine up and running ; the little guy will grow up faster than imagined and be looking for the keys to take a date on.LOL belated birthday best to your Lovely Lady.

don't want to cut out "mid-stream" on this topic ; not much choice any more . 10pm on east coast. take care of my lite work ok JOJO 😁

trying to cross reference the two topics he wrote earlier dealing with same truck . earlier stated with trailer emer button out , air comes out the red hose when stepping on tractor brake pedal. now the suspension issue seems A OK , working on the air / emerg line

what you are saying is now when pulling out the red trailer button, the tractor air bags deflate automatically/

normal ;; correct JOJO at 90 the secondary air will be filling ??

not understanding how a noticeable difference can be seen in the bags . they raise/lower. valve must be working