Straydog954
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Everything posted by Straydog954
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Looked at a 2013 granite with an mp8. Seemed to start and run good but showed the following fault codes, engine (128) ABS (136) cluster (140) VECU (144). Anybody know what these stand for and is it a costly fix?
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1996 Mack Rd688 300hp loosing prime
Straydog954 replied to Jcamaraza's topic in Engine and Transmission
I had the same problem. The fuel return jumper between the heads was loose on mine Tightened it down and problem solved. I was told to also replace the rubber o rings in it also -
Besides kilometers instead of mph on speedometer, are there any differences in a Mack RD model that was built in the US for export to Canada ? It has camelback suspension which I assume all have the same axle spread. Any other differences?
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Hello can anyone comment good or bad about this engine in terms of reliability, performance or common issues? Was this one of the engines that had bad cams ?
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I would be keeping my housings and using my axle shafts and they are both 17 spline so everything should work out
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Both rears are crd 92 and 93 so they are the same regardless of being 38 or 44s I was told by Weller. These are 96 and 98 yr vintage. The axles are different length I assume because one rear has daytons and the other is hub pilot.
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Hi I was wondering if you can swap 38k rears into 44k housings as long as the axle shaft spline count is the same? Are they the same or are the 44’s built heavier?
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Would you say these are better than an AMI 370 that has had the modifications done to it such as injectors, turbo, exhaust manifold etc ?
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I am looking at an 07 Mack with 75000 mi and 8800 hrs. Because the odometer reads 75k miles would that be correct or is there any way that it could be more than what it’s showing? Also what problem does an illuminated orange lightening bolt on the dash stand for? It’s an MP7 engine.
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Ok. I’ve never heard of a maxidyne / econodyne engine until I saw the brochure. I thought it was either one or the other. Still learning about these engines.
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So they made a regular em6-300 with the 1425 torque and later an em6-300 “econodyne” model must be. The econodyne em6 has 300 ft. Lbs less torque output. My question is how do you get the 1425 torque out of the “econodyne” em6-300?
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I found a torque chart that shows an em6-300 having the same torque output of an em7-300 which is 1425 ft. Lbs. I then found a Mack brochure on the em6-300 “econodyne” which shows it to only have 1125 ft. Lbs. My question is what needs to be done to the econodyne model to get it to the 1425 torque? It does not have Robert Bosch pump, looks like Ambac. Does the pump just need to be reworked or what?
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Would it run this good at high rpm with a bent push rod? Truck has been sitting for a while that’s all I know about it
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This is most likely a pump issue you think?
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Truck has been sitting for a couple yrs. Oil filter was last changed in 2018 I see so I can only imagine fuel filters are old. Has really not been used much in last few yrs. I took a video clip on my cell phone maybe my kid can figure out how to down load it Engine studders or whatever you call it and shakes and then smooths out at higher rpms
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Can anybody explain what the difference is between a CRD931A and a CRD93 rear rear diff. Is one better than the other?
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Was looking at a low mileage e7 full mechanical. Started very easily and idled nice. Oil pressure was about 32 at idle cold and it went up to 80 at full throttle after warmed up. I noticed when the oil pressure hit appx 60 that the engine started to studder and shake a bit then smoothed back out when it hit 70 lbs and was smooth all the way to 80. Any ideas what would cause this ? An injector maybe? Engine has a dynatard on it and it was not working not sure why. Engine had very little blow by out of the top of valve cover and nothing out of draft tube Any ideas on the miss ?
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Looks like the low gear in the 12 speed is 14.44 and the T2070 is 14.16. The big difference is the .78 OD in the 12 compared to .60 in the 7 speed. I think the 5.02 will still give me decent startability in soft ground with an ok top speed.
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Running 22.5 rubber on dump truck with a 300 maxidyne. Taking out the 5.73 rears due to swapping in a 12 speed with different final gear ratio. Trying to figure out if 5.02 would give me the same deep reduction off road that I have with my T2070. I am more interested in off-road performance than highway speed. I’m thinking either 4.42, 4.64 or 5.02 Any opinions are much appreciated
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You don’t think it can be driven out after removing the other side ?
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It broke at the diff end so I def need to pull the rear out ?
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Broke the rear rear axle shaft in my RD. What is the procedure just remove the old one and try to fish out any pieces of metal and slide new one in? Does the diff have to come out to be inspected? Is it ok to source a new axle from a salvage yard or should I buy OEM or aftermarket or what? Any advice is much appreciated thank you
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