67RModel

Does anyone know where Volvo trucks sold in North America are assembled? I have no clue but I would assume someplace here since the ones in Europe and elsewhere globally are so different than the ones sold here. I wonder if any of Volvo's manufacturing here is unionized. I know they make some construction equipment here in the states.....

I thought the all Mack 12 speeds were air shifted for the 10 road gears. The difference being with the compound low could be air shifted with a switch on the dash or a second stick on the floor. Someone else might know better....

To bulk haulers it is. I hauled frac sand for a while. I figured if I could have shaved off 2000 pounds from my tare weight I could have grossed an extra $20,00 - $30,000 per year at the rates then. Some guys got crazy with it. Got lightweight Freightliner FLD120s with series 60 Detroits and flat top sleepers. They would switch the drives out for super singles and run low pro 22.5 steers and then gut every unnecessary piece of anything out of the interior. Some of them even had custom two hopper aluminum pneumatic trailers made instead of the typical 3 hoppers you see. There was a company I ran into that ran a fleet of newer daycab Volvos and slip seated drivers for the nightshift. They had 10 or 11 liter engines, no passenger seats or any interior appointments whatsoever, single drive axle with a pusher and super singles, and ultra lightweight trailers. Their tare weight was a good 6,000 pounds less than the typical owner operator running a sleeper truck with big power. It that game 3 tons more every trip was huge.

Do you still have the Marmon? Is that an aftermarket sleeper on it or a Marmon integral cab? Interesting corner windows on it. I have never seen a such an animal. Did you buy it new? This thread got hijacked. 🤷‍♂️

Geoff do you have any pictures of your fleet from back in the day? Would be interesting to see the old iron.

I agree totally. Spokes for life. It really is kind of sad they have completely disappeared from the market. I personally I think they are safer for on/off road vocational dump truck work since as you said they don't crack. Mack still calls for 240-260 ft*lb on the clamp lug nuts if the stud thread is 3/4"-10 UNC, which is what Mack 44k rears generally have. You can achieve this pretty easily with a 3/4" breaker bar and a small cheater pipe. I have no clue what modern hub pilot lug nuts call for but I imagine its considerable higher than 250 ft*lb? And yes the Budd system is complete diabolical garbage. No question about the advantages of spoke wheels over budd wheels. I can see why the industry moved to hub pilot though. I think no matter how good you get the run out on a spoke wheel balanced my guess is it will never be as good as a hub pilot. Its just the nature of the beast. Some bean counter at the mega carriers figured out there is probably less accelerated tire wear with the hub pilot system as well as considerable weight savings. Not to mention you need to have a certain amount of skill and pride in your work to get Dayton wheels running true....something nobody probably wants to take the time to do anymore. I wonder if you can actually go into a Mack dealer right now and order a highway tractor with spoke hubs? Better yet I would like to see the salesman's face if you did. 😂

Ill have to look at my book later on but the internals are generally different part numbers between the two types of E7s. I'm thinking cam for sure, probably pistons and injectors too. I know even within the Maxidyne family there are differences between different HP ratings. For instance I have a fully mechanical EM7-250 that I want to make into an EM7-300. The cam, pistons, and turbo are the same but the injectors have a different Mack part number and the timing advance is slightly different between the two. You really have to dig into the part numbers and differences. Its not as simple as adding more fuel......

I don't know there is lots of missing information here. Is the speedo accurate? Check it against a GPS phone app. A T2050 has a 0.6:1 overdrive. You would have to have 8.88 gears or something crazy low like that in your rear end(s) to only be doing 43 in 5th gear. Are you getting it into top gear? 5th is all the way over to the right and back against the seat. Is it a tandem or single axle? What is the engine governed at? What are your RPMs when you are maxed out at 43 mph? Yes grinding is most likely operator error. The Mack extended range transmission takes some getting used too and a "reprogramming of your brain" to get the hang of. They are not like other heavy duty transmissions. The steps between gears are comparatively huge.

Like others have said its a 600 series DM of probably 70s or 80s vintage. Can't really tell too much from the single picture provided. You can look on the outside of the passenger side frame rail just behind the front steer tire. Take a wire brush to that area and you will find the model/serial number. Or if the drivers side door tag is still intact it will be there too. My guess is its a DM685S or DM685SX. ENDT675 237hp Maxidyne engine and a 6 speed lo hole transmission. It could also be an ENDT676 with the turbine charge air cooler too. A picture of the engine will easily tell. Tube type rubber. probably 11.00x22 or 12.00x24. Pretty much the best site truck dump truck you can lay your hands on for work around the property/farm. Its a street legal farm tractor. Slow and low on power by todays standards but very reliable. With basic maintenance and upkeep they are almost impossible to kill. It could probably survive a nuclear blast and keep running like nothing happened. 😂

Just wondering what that box is mounted to the dash to the left of the steering wheel if anybody knows.

No an 813 is a turbo Thermodyne if I'm not mistaken. Get in touch with the guy. The deal may possible fall through. You never know.....

No affiliation. Saw listing on Marketplace. Thought I would share here if anyone is interested. Looks like a real nice unit to start a restoration from. Nice original and not rusted out. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/590710523088073/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Yea I thought about this too. I really hate to cut an antique truck up like this that is all original and "modernize" it but I get it. Personally I like to keep things original as possible. I think the slower speeds and lack of creature comforts are part of the nostalgia. For me if I had to get something this nice and original to highway speeds I would just rather trailer it to the location, but I realize that is not possible for everyone.

But your literature shows its a 4 speed. Which is it? Also what is the tachometer say when you are maxed out at 45mph? Is the tach / speedometer accurate? Don't know how big of a pain it would be but you could just go the two speed rear axle route. There has to be a pile of hydraulic brake two speed rear ends laying around from Loadstar and S series Internationals with 20" dayton hubs already installed. A low 5, high 3 ratio split was very common, say like 5.32/3.90. Probably wouldn't be that bad of a job. Would probably have to get a new driveshaft made or yours modified. They yokes probably wouldn't be the same between your shaft and the "new" axle. Keep it in low range and drive it like you normally do and then once in top gear switch the rear end to high range. Pretty simple....

"Hey we are coming up on this real knotty section of this log" "OK lemme grab 9th and let her rip"

That was my problem too. It was fun and exciting for like the first week then it just became too much anxiety. Seems like every time I went out it was something. Nothing terrible each time but enough to make you think about “is this really worth it?”. For me it wasn’t. I put on about 2000 miles the first year and maybe 500 the second. Then sold it the following spring for down payment money on a rental property. If I never rode on a motorcycle again in my life I wouldn’t be upset at all. I had a 2007 nightster. This was back in 2015-2017.

Something about this is strange. The second set of pictures the OP posted shows the engine has an over center hand clutch bolted to the fly wheel. I don't think this was installed in a truck. Possibly Mack had a contract with the government to build some stationary equipment. Certainly a puzzle.

Other than its a tandem axle Granite (CV713) not too much I think. One would have to give the last 6 of the VIN to the dealer would think and they could tell you what is in it. Most (maybe all) Granites came with the AI version of the ASET engine. Maybe you could get the AC version in a Granite I really don't know. Quickest way to tell is by the turbo. If it has a variable geometry actuator hanging off the side then its an AC. If it looks like a normal old turbo then its an AI. Mack axles and transmissions are pretty easy to identify by eyesight.

Whatever it is I like how the engineers knew it would have to be worked on at some point and took the care to design the exhaust manifold such that the injection pump is easy to access. Any pictures of the other side?

I'm pretty sure that is a Buda engine. You could get various versions of a Buda diesel in a Mack starting in the mid 1930s. I think they were anywhere from 212CID to 468CID. They used the Lanova style combustion chamber. Basically anything before the END519, which was Mack's first proprietary diesel, was a Buda engine. I think Allis Chalmers bought Buda in the 1950s

I'm pretty sure they you can get them in 4x4 too. Or maybe I'm thinking of a Mitsubishi Fuso, which is practically the same thing. Either way these trucks are rugged workhorses and very versatile.

Call Watts Mack and talk to Barry. My buddy just did this swap on an 88 R model. Spoke hubs on 38k Mack rears and Budd front wheels all swapped over to hub pilot. All the parts were readily available and they told him everything he needed. I think he was able to reuse his existing bearings.

Diamond Vehicle Solutions. T-Line Trucks. https://www.truckinginfo.com/148961/t-line-trucks-offered-by-pennsylvania-builder https://www.truckinginfo.com/129462/t-line-successor-to-diamond-t-plans-return-to-market No other information found other than those links. I'm guessing they folded. Its almost impossible to imagine a company like that succeeding in today's market.....even 8 years go in 2015 (the most recent article). It sounded like glider kits were going to be the bulk of their business and that has been killed off by the EPA.

Here are two pictures from the facebook listing for anyone who cant access the link. Someone really put in some time to bring it back from what it was. Certainly a unique rig. At least it was saved and not parted out or scrapped.

I guess it could be one of two things. Either the gauge is broken/sprung and the primary really is functioning normally or the one way check valve at the inlet of the primary system has failed in such a way to not allow air to flow into the primary system. Does the truck have a supply tank (wet tank) between the air dryer and the Primary / secondary reservoirs? Find the line that goes from the wet tank to the primary supply tank and trace to find the one way check valve. Does the low air alarm stay on constantly? If the compressor is pumping fine and the secondary system is filling up fine I don't know what else it could be other than the one way check valve on the primary side or a catastrophic air leak between the wet tank and primary supply tank you can't hear because the truck is running. Or a broken gauge.