DieselDog5.9

That is the suspension I have, One cool thing about chalmers is the part numbers are printed on each individual part

I do have an I phone. I have tried loading from phone and email to myself then upload from computer. But I did take the pictures on the I phone

So I have taken a bunch of pictures but can't seem to get them to upload without an error message. I guess I am trying to figure out what the story is, I have pieced together that I have CRD92Lo front carrier, and a stamped housing. I am assuming the stamped steel housing is used for the chalmers saddles to be welded to. Currently my stamped housing is cracked around the ring for the carrier bolts, after having it welded, the 2 bolt holes under the housing cover are tweeked a wisker and the bolts loosen up and oil leaks from between the housing and carrier, so I am replacing the housing with a used one hopefully, Mack wants 8k for an axle housing.

I have an 03 Mack CV713 Granite with Chalmers rear suspension, with no Capacity door tag. I got the build sheet from Mack listing a 14k front axle and 38k rears. I was told that I have a 46k suspension by the Mack parts dealer and I have bought 46k suspension parts. So... Am I 38k capacity or 46k capacity?

I am going off of memory, but the schematic for a Granite shows fuse 7 feeding the key switch aux relay and brake relay maybe. After isolating and examining all the wiring for that circuit and pulling down the ECU and looking for a rubbed wire there, I replaced the key switch and the associated relays and fingers crossed truck has been on the road 6 months without that issue coming up again.

I have an 03 CV713 Granite, the truck died loaded a few weeks ago, found fuse #7 blown, replaced the fuse fired right up. Fast forward a month truck died again, replaced the fuse again fired up, 30 minutes later fuse blown and wont take a fuse without blowing with the key on. Pulled it out of the road, went back a few hours later with a wiring schematic, pulled the ignition switch out of the column, put a fuse in fired right back up. Looks like that fuse powers the key switch, then powers the Accessory relay, and the emergency stoplamp relay. Havent found the accessory relay or emergency stoplamp relay yet. When broke down on the road noticed with the key off, and the ignition switch fuse blown, the brake lights were on. Is this a known issue for these trucks that I am chasing?

Yes lots of oil, Got a few weeks till mud season shut down, If it has a wabco, does a wabco have to go back in? Wabco seems to build air slow on all macks, and super expensive.

Compressor is worn out, I am hoping to make it to mud season before I pull the compressor. The gasket between block and compressor is also leaking pretty bad, hoping to upgrade compressor, havent done any research on that yet. I changed the Air Dryer and Governor last week so it would build air when cold. My fan is not air actuated, it is a viscus clutch like a car. Leak is constant.

Hello all, Have a leak on the back side of what I think is the treadle valve, Blue arrow showing port leaking air, not sure what the purpose of this aditional valve is, but my experience with leaking valves is the issue is somewhere else and the leak shows up at the exhaust port. Could the leak be just the valve? Can this valve be ordered separate?

I repaired a broken wire on the front left wheel, cleared the codes, ABS light still on, have a code, SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC CODE #1 SID 151- FMI 14, the wheel sensor code cleared, so assuming it is an issue with the ABS module, I have the schematic, and have a few clerifying questions. What is the voltage supposed to be on the other side of the resistor feeding an Eaton abs module on pin #18? I have an ABS light on, inspection tomorrow, Pin #8 and #9 have 12 volts. 👍 Pin #18 on the ABS module, 0.87 volts, seems odd, this pin is feed from the fuse box to a resistor, before resistor 12V, after resistor 0.87V. Fail 😕

Pictures please. Some guys are big on the V8, for me the parts availability would steer me clear, also dont these engines have to be driven carefully or they drop valves and such?

As I understand it the 427 tune is for vocational trucks and is better than the 460 tune for highway trucks. I sent my ECM to an independant to reprogram to get the engine to pull under 1500 rpms, it is a whole different truck now. The dealers in the early 2000's had a "smoke tune" that would really make a 427 pull, that program is gone, and a 460 tune would require additional hardware from Mack for me to go from ai400 to 427/460 You guys in maine have a great dealership, we are recovering from loosing our local Mack Dealer.

I carry a 5lbs sledge hammer, and a fitsall, metric and standard versions. Air hose, pressure guage and adapter to get air from trailer glad hand.

Yes, the owner has had fantom light issues for multiple years, all set now. What an odd spot to hang a stop light switch.