Joey Mack

i have never used a hydraulic puller. The last ENDT I did, I fought the liners. I had to weld beads inside the liners and let them cool. I also had to dress the edges of the 'dogs' on my puller a few times because they would slip off and round over. it was a chore.

🍻

no damage. you have steel roller lifters.

Sounds like you were paying attention. Good deal

keep in mind.... when the pointer is pointing to 1&6 that doesnt mean you are up on #1. you may be up on #6.. when you are up on #1, the #2 exhaust rocker will be rocked, (valve open)..

Yes you need to compress the springs. Did you also set the bridge clearence to .010" on both ends? And did you rotate the engine according to the book. And where you sure you were up on #1 when you started the ajustment ? I hope posted several times about adjusting the valves on these. You may be able to find my lengthy posts. Jojo

I will take all the Chevy trucks, all day long...👍

Do you have this liner pulling tool ?

I wish I took pictures of the DM pit trucks I worked on for Portland Sand and Gravel in Portland Maine. They were triple framed, E-6 twin stick 107's. They were geared so low that they were maxed out at 55mph. It was a long drive from The Shop, back to the sand pit. Sure wish I knew then what I know now......

Here is a Damned Brat.. Just sayin...

We know this issue all too well. Sorry fjh.... is it too early for a shot of Crown??

Fjh is right. And heres a kicker.. all the plugs are the same. So when you pull them without marking/lableing them as you go. When you put the new harness on, you will have the wrong plugs plugged in and a ton of fault codes if it even starts and runs. Pay close attention to the plugs at the rear of the engine. If the cam, crank, and EGR sensors are not in the right plugs it will not start, or it will start hard and stall. At least its a cab over, easier to work on. Still a b!t@h to do.

The injector harness is seperare. And yes... the insulation falls off

Great. Thanks for posting the fix..

Good deal..