Joey Mack

Did you wet the bearings with oil and squirt some in the well inside the hub?

Exactly

Hippy ? Uhhh No !! That girl would Kill me... If Terri didnt do it first.. 🍻

MarkT.... You Know It !!

Thank you Vlad !!

GW has a point about taking up pre load, when tightening the outer nut. It is something that people like me know how it feels when its RIGHT... I never had to redo a drive bearing set that I torqued with my method. But..... it can happen. When you finish the outer nut torque, you can hand spin the hub and tell if it is too tight. When I do it.. i turn the hub agressively, then grab a wheel stud and turn the hub as if its a crank handle. If i cant turn it, its too tight. And usually backing it off one hole on the lock rin bis enough... but what do I know 🤔 🍻

yes. the dowel location is not clocked to any certain degree. Many times after doing a zillion of these, when I back it off then set it to 50 lbft. the lock ring is lined right up to the dowel on one side or the other. it will be very close, half a hole off.. but dont sweat it if it is a full hole off anf you need to turn the inner nut to line it up. be sure that the dowel is in the ring hole so you dont jam the 2 nuts together and mash the dowel.. The wheel bearing will loosen up on it's own.

I forgot to say, the outer axle nuts gets put on with a large breaker bar as tight as you can get it. I think it is about 550 lbft.

if you are asking about bearing clearence, what we always did was.... preload the bearing at 200 lbft, then back it off, and set it at 50 lbft. to engage the lock ring on the dowel will sometimes require you to turn the inner nut a little. you can flip the ring over to see which hole is closest with out disturbing the final torque too much. I always choose to back the nut off a small amount instead of going too tight. does this post make sense?

here is the tool. then you have to buy the correct installer head for the wear ring. It is designed to slide snuggly over the spindle , while keeping the wear ring straight and it doesnt mash the end of the wear ring too. the tool numbers are on the stemco seal box. Im not trying to make this a big deal, just showing you what is out there for proper tools.

Yes if it doesnt have a flange. When you install the wear ring, be sure to put a light bead of RTV on the leading edge so that it spreads the RTV as you drift the wear ring on. It stops when flush with the spindle. Then wipe off the excess RTV once its seated. The fancy tool does a perfect installation.

the wear ring has a 4 digit part number on the back side. I will lead you to the correct Stemco seal kit. The wear ring is installed with a special tool. I suggest looking at the spindle to make sure there is not a groove worn into it. If no groove is present, you can cross reference the seal you have to a voyager series that doesnt require a special tool to install, just be cautious. I see the blue seal is removed. you can look inside the seal for its 4 digit part number as well. Of course if you are like me, i always end up putting the prybar right on the seal number.. 🫣

Thanks guys.. 😊

Thanks Mech.. Im at work, doing a little supa truckin'

Same same... Bob..