Joey Mack

no to the ceramic lifters. Without having a crystal ball, I cant say how long the current lifters will last. When your engine was born, the lifters had an issue where they would stop rolling due to a flat spot developing on the roller axle. they are brass. this caused the roller to stop turning and therefore it would damage the cam. With that said.... you have some food for thought on replacing the cam and lifters, or maybe just the lifters. If you do remove the cam gear, keep in mind you have an offset cam key, and its installation direction. For your HP. the white painted end faces forward. As far as PAI engine kits, I have built at least 10 complete builds and used many parts kits. They do a great job. I just talked to a guy whos E-7 Mechanical engine I did 6 years ago, and he is still running good. I have some out there that are older then that... Keep in touch.

Ouch. I think the book calls for a 1 mm. bead of RTV. Good luck..

I have been intrigued by this thread. Those short braces on the inside corners of the rafters as well as the braces at the peak are all secured with 1 screw on each side.. 1 screw allows pivot... if those braces had 2 screws spaced apart as far as the assembly would allow it would stiffen it. Each brace needs 8 screws installed. 2 on each side at both ends... yes the screws are small, but multiple screws will tighten it up.. and you will be able to keep your clearence on the gable ends without having braces or cables in the way of tall vehicles seeking shelter.

Mark.. it is a good paint, but I am not a pro painter, the cans are taller and heavier, it works for us... i think they are around $12+ per can.. still high,,,, but I bought 2,, $5 cans of Krylon and used them both on a toy, and still had crappy coverage.. I should have just bought MRO Safety Yellow...

Yep...

Without a shim, the bead goes on the shelf. You need to shoot straight when inserting the liner so you dont smudge the bead of RTV with the end of the liner. Yes to putting the shim on the liner . Zero chance of pinching it.

I put a narrow bead on the liner and on the shelf. NARROW.... you dont want the RTV to not allow a good liner seat. I also recommend taking a small amount off the shelves with a counter bore cutter, unless you are happy with the depth mic readings at 4 points in each bore

Shim sizes are a plenty. Up to .020".

Happy Birthday to Lmackattack.. 🎂🥳

In my opinion. .023" is too low. When I set liners i shoot for .027". You are allowed .002" across the cyl's. So .025" would be the low, and .029" would be the high. Are you using a sled gauge to check liner protrusion? And pointing in the correct groove at the top. Is the deck flat? I dont know of taller liners, an uncut counter bore shelf is around 4.003" deep. This is based off of my own measurements .

Well Paul.. I dont like when cultures lose their cultures... Our language changes often, but to me its related to street slang by a culture that I dont subscribe to.. anyway... And when Swishy posts.... I dont know what the hell he is sayin' but you do.. I love it.. cya...

Yes sir, it was really good. My Boss even said so many times... Nailed it !!.

Now Paul ??? You know we know your are top notch.... I dont know any Aussie words to use so pick some.. Is Banger a good word ? Or is that Brittish? Anyway... you are spot on....

Yes 880joe, i would like to think the oil fill cap would pop off. But.... if its a good oil cap, it may hold and allow oil to push out the spinner breather, im still not sure on this one...

Well.... here it is... this plus homemade mac'n cheese, fried okra and brussles sprouts.. It aught to be Yummy...