Joey Mack

I knew exactly what you meant when you posted.. Thats a funny scene...

I wish they would have put jack screw holes in the bearing cover. Ive done a bunch of these. Just for kicks, take the small cover bolts out and use a 5 pound dead blow on the end of the shaft. The backlash will losen the cover. Yes some patience is needed and whatch out for hitting the bell housing with your knuckles..

Yes it is.. I kept it clean for the children..

When the small cover is off, you can strike the end of the input shaft with a dead blow, and the bearing will walk out enough to get behind it.

Looks like Larry is doing really good work. His attention to detail is really good. 👌

That little bit of spline wear shouldnt cause the clutch to drag. Removing the input shaft is easier with the bell housing off. But then you will need a new gasket. It should be fine like it is.

Thats because a lot of drivers do not understand the 3 stages of the clutch pedal.. as a driver trainer, i spend a good bit of time explaining the 3 stages. As to be expected, new truck drivers slam the clutch to the floor as if they are driving a car. It takes them a bit to understand how to use the middle part of the clutch stroke for double clutching...

Yes, that is the reason I posted that example.. it is more forgiving then the solid types..

Perfect, 2" one piece clutch brake please.. 🍻

I was just thinking the same thing Mark... since 1979 the Iranian mullahs have killed thousands of Americans.. Some on here are dead set against President Trump.. Sad...

??

Yep that works too. Either way there will a little spill..

Paul. The air enters when there is a failure in the system, or simply when refilling the system after a repair. If an impellar is worn and cavitation is present the lack of coolant flow causes an overheat condition. Then water is boiled out and through the world of magic, air fills the void.. Im bluffing on that last part... I rekon the rad cap can introduce air into the system if it is in poor condition. When the system cools it creates suction, so I would think any loose fittings will allow air to be sucked in... Then again... what do I know? Im just a head scratchin kinda guy...

So in my new world.. when we talk about cavitation, we say a gas has gotten into the system. Air is a gas.. this comprimises the movement of fluid through the pumps volute. The action of the water,in this case, mixed with air creates small explosions inside the volute, which pecks away at the volute. When enough of a gap between the impeller and the volute is created, the water will not move properly. Hence, and over heating condition. We all know air seeks the highest point in the cooling system.. venting at that point is key. Lets take a Mack E-7 for example... even though there are small tubes at the top of the thermo housing and pump, I have had 100% sucess when I loosen the plug in the front water manilfold behind the thermo housing, as i fill the system back up. When it leaks the air is gone...