Joey Mack
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Everything posted by Joey Mack
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Oh Hell... i wish i had posted the engine kit numbers for you months ago...
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Yes the nylon is a drift for the seal and goes in your toolbox for next time..
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I see the wear ring is in its own bag. Thats a first for me. Im sorry, but I have to ask.... isnt there 2 rear seal part numbers? One for the seal alone, and a different seal for use of the wear ring? I know you have been working hard on this and have gotten info from many directions, and a parts counter that doesnt know what you have, I recall 2 different seals due to the thickness of the wear ring. Trying to not be a pest here... Jojo
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🍻
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Good points at the end. Too bad you cant buy a new input shaft.... feeling safe is tops..
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Ok. So you did strip the input shaft cover inside an out. Too bad it wont hold. Im curious about your idea to weld it and turn it back down. Good luck....
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Cruiseliner Transformation
Joey Mack replied to cruiseliner64's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Interesting... I never saw the adjustment gap related to the pressure plate, only between the throwout bearing and the clutch brake.... Well... I just learned something. -
Cruiseliner Transformation
Joey Mack replied to cruiseliner64's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
🤔... ok. Well now im curious fjh... interesting ... -
Cruiseliner Transformation
Joey Mack replied to cruiseliner64's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
But what would stop the trans from spinning so he can go from nuetral to 'in gear' when stopped, without grinding ? -
Cruiseliner Transformation
Joey Mack replied to cruiseliner64's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
The clutch brake would make up the excess gap... at least he can add a 2 peice clutch brake and get it dialed in. And stop the grinding to get it in gear. -
Cruiseliner Transformation
Joey Mack replied to cruiseliner64's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Well...... I myself have never adjusted that style clutch... Proud to see Made in U.S.A... -
ok. I know from experience that you can get those 2 and the EGR plugs mixed up. It boggles my mind as to why they would make those plugs the same.. I bet you got pretty good at removing the interior panels to get the doghouse out.
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did you swap the cam and crank plugs? they may be backwards.
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I still havent seen where he removed the whole seal assemblies. The inner and outer seal with the snap rings that at the flat spring steel type that you remove with a pocket screwdriver. the top dirt seal is not for high pressure. Unless I missed something in the story. If so.. forgive me.
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Dammit Man... i wish i still had my extra parts. I sent them back with the engine i built. I dont have the part numbers
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The wear ring + seal is a differnt part number than without the ring. Hope the Mack parts guy gets the right one. I think the number is in the KSA&A book.
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The rear main seal may offer 2 options. 1 without a wear ring and 1 with a wear ring. The seal itself is different. Just FYI
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I forgot to add that the fuel pressure regulator is the 45 degree fitting that i said you can 'T' into... if the fuel pressure is low, towards 60 or less and you are not making oil do to fuel dilution, then you need to replace that regulator... then go from there with road tests...
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60-80 PSI. it used to be 100, but that pressure was blowing out the orings. That plug may fight you, but it is directly in to the fuel gallery.
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There is a 1/4" pipe plug behind the overboard breather. You can tie in there, if the plug wants to come out, or you can 'T' into line going in to the block below the #4 cylinder...
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9-2 code.pdf
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I have posted the ''pin-out'' charts in case you need to I.D. the circuits. I also posted the 9-2 code info to use to guide you through checking the grounds.
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luv it !! fjh
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The Cal Codes are important, but the engine will run good until it learns how its running. Not entering the Cal Codes is not the issue here..
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