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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. Yes but you need to move the engine 30+ degrees back then go forward to remove gear lash.. a little gear lash effects a long way... Got it ??? The engine runs clockwise...
  2. You have to remove the front cover and the 4 bolts on the pump gear. Leave the gear meshed in the hole. The pump coupler will come out with the pump. When the pump is ready to install. You will use the light timer to make sure the pump is set before installation. then install the pump with 2 bolts secured in the pump gear. Then back it off 30+ degrees, and bring it up til the lights match, and check the degree mark on the flywheel. 1/2 degree early is ok. If it is on the mark, lock it down.. your done... There are a few others here who know this better than me. I expect one to chime in.. jojo
  3. Mech, glad you are here. Take a look at the other thread im posting in. Its about pulling a RB inj. Pump. I posted some info, but you may/will be able to fine tune the info..
  4. https://photos.app.goo.gl/MSVHiHvkFPsaq1G79
  5. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5MoEkeoYxGCv6ru46
  6. So you have n E-7. With a Robert Bosch pump. Yes you roll the engine until both lights are lit. If you pass by it, back off 30+ degrees and try again. Then take note of the degree mark on the flywheel. You can also mark the plate on the pump gear just for extra reference. Then remove the pump. Will you be able to leave the crank shaft position alone during the pump work?
  7. I love it.. I dont "truck" but i would proudly drive that to the hardware store..
  8. That's a 2 valve. Million mile engine...
  9. I think the E-6 4 Valve came out in 1987. And then in 89-90 the E-7 was born...
  10. Vision 👍
  11. Its likely a spicer, it can be just a common shaft assembly. Output and input shafts are the key. Then the distance. Use some calipers to measure shaft diameters, and bring that too. Splined or keyed shafts is no biggie. They will likely look at it and say, yep... I got this.. and they will balance the shaft as well..
  12. There should be a number on the yoke. Measure the distance to the pump yoke or shaft. Bring those and a some pictures to the drive shaft shop. They can build a drive shaft and provide the u-joints, and hand you a completed PTO shaft with the slip yoke.
  13. Check the EGR pipe that comes from the top of the intake over to the EGR. There is a brass check valve inside the top of the intake. They can get sooty, and ive even found some that got loose inside.
  14. Dont forget the study of transgenderism in lab rats..
  15. So your looking for the whole fixture. Ok.. sorry, i cant help with that
  16. Did you pull the bulb to read the number? I think its a #67
  17. Both ends. Then shoot brake clean through the tube to rinse any grit..
  18. #67 or #1156 not sure how big his fixture is.
  19. There's a bulletin but i dont have it handy. Maybe E-Media has it
  20. Tighten them to about 45 lbft, back them way off and finish at around 25+lbft. This forms the seat then seats them.
  21. The number should be on the brass base.
  22. To bleed them you can loosen them at the head, and pump the primer til they squirt. Its a little messy.. 2 or 3 lines is enough to get it cranked. As far as one time use,,,,, i have take 320 emory cloth in my finger tips and rotated the ball seat til the groove was gone or mostly gone. It works 3/4 of the time.. you have to torque condition the nuts to get a proper seating
  23. The Superliner is my favorite Mack.. I envy you.. have fun with it..
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