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Joey Mack

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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. I worked on an E-6 2 Valve for a customer, today.. Here is some part numbers for you. I dont know if you need this info, but I will post this and other parts as I work on this 2 Valve.. P.S. I can sub-out my helper if you need some help. She (my wife) has helped me build somewhere near 10 engines..
  2. I'm not sure if you need this part number, but it is for E-6 2 Valve studs/ 20 bolt heads. jojo
  3. that video is amazing and very sad.. its like those drivers were not looking any further ahead, then over the edge of the hood. Here on I-85 its no different. I'm glad that I dont need to use the Interstates anymore.
  4. of my limited knowledge slows me down, but to me the 4 valve was smoother steady power. E-6 is 672 c.i. and E-7 is 728 c.i. I also drove a few different E-7's when I was a driver for a construction company. looking back, it was pretty impressive the way those Macks pulled 100,000 + out of the pits and down the road. We were always illegal grossing up 120,000 lbs. the old '79 R that I drove was pulled over by ''The Man'' he weighed me, 120,000 lbs, he made me dump the dirt at a local car lot.. anyway, They are tough.
  5. Ive got a short amount of time driving an E-9, but a couple years in an E-6.. personally, I would stick with the E-6.. I am by no means a super trucker or Guru,, but as a mechanic, the E-6 can do a good job... and it is still repairable. J.M.O. Jojo
  6. Good deal skydog.. the correct kit will come along. Someone here may chime in the the parts kit number..
  7. And Sky dog.. no amount of that vasoline, is gonna make that pin fit, just sayin'.... keep in touch... Jojo
  8. Yep.. Your 'Noodle' is still working, Mech.. I meant the upper noodle..
  9. I wonder if there is a notch cut into the pin? like for a locking pin, like ive seen in light axels. more pics of the pin by itself would be good..
  10. You make a good point, and why does the pin look straight and not tapered?
  11. As far as reaming newer style bushings. I never had too. Only had to de- burr the leading edge after installing it. And as far as splits, what I've seen is an interlocked seamlike puzzle pieces. Those were the ones with the yellow nylon coating inside. I don't know why there aren't new seals. If you can get the old ones out, you can take them to ''allied bearing'' to get them matched up.
  12. Is it an air controlled fan? If so, check the little brass valve on the firewall near the treadle valve. It delivers the air to the fan celenoid that is mounted on the radiator..
  13. You know what we havent talked about???????????? Removing the old bushings..... clean the grease out really good. then take a pocket screwdriver or a pick and poke around the edge of the bushing to find the seam.. (if it is not an older brass bushing), and that is where you can curl the old bushing out with a screwdriver or small sharp chisel.. if you have the brass bushing, you can try to knock it out with a small chisel, when you get it apart you will know better, of course, the bushings may be worn so thin that you can pry them out with a screwdriver.. dont sweat it.. Jojo
  14. lay both harness' next to each other and trace each wire to see what is different.. chances are that there are wires in auto tranny plugs that are not in the manual plugs. If you have a good set of terminal release tools you can unlock the pins and re-create the plugs to match the original.. are you familiar with how to read the wire codes on those white wires? to me, its actually a very smart set-up that Mack did.. also, I suggest getting a V-Mac III boo. I saw one on E-Bay last week for $55.00
  15. No reaming. And no de- burring if you install them smoothly. The holes line up with the grease zerks. I have a homemade press made out of a cutoff brake chamber rod, and 2 large flat washers and 2 nuts to install the bushings flush , and then flip a big socket over and use it to recess the bushings for the grease seals.. I'm sure there is a dozen ways to do it.. you will laugh when your done, because you will see how easy it is to do. jojo
  16. My guess is you can turn the key in the lock but it feels dead.. if you pound the door just above the handle, with the side of your fist, and at the same time turn the key back and forth, it may trip the trigger.. I have done that many times, then you can open the door panel and fix it. Option 2.....You may be able to roll the down and poke a long screw driver or what ever down by the latch tobpop it open. Its a common issue that I have found with that style door latch..
  17. Did you check the fuel level in the filters?
  18. Oh come On Mech?? yeah , your right..
  19. maybe he has a tater sack he can cut up to do what you suggest, Mech.. Go Burlap!!
  20. look at the front engine mount and the cross member to get it done.. dont sweat it..
  21. I think the injection pump timing will have to be changed, around 5 degrees I think, since you will eliminate the the econovance.. I did one a few years ago. I also took the timing pointer on the front of the engine off the bad engine and moved it to the good engine. I did have to drill and tap the threads in the timing cover so I could mount the pointers. there are 2 round reliefs cast into the timing cover where the pointer goes.. fuel lines will be different. I wish I was smarter about injection pumps.. But there are a few on here that are very smart about them.. Jojo
  22. That was 7 years ago.. hopefully he still has it in good shape.
  23. That post is 6vyears old, I suggest you start a new thread, include year, model, and engine series, and tranny..
  24. It's a chore.. I know.. Glad you are working on it.. its a cool truck.. Have a great 'Q'.. eat some yumm yumm for me.. Jojo
  25. I would bet that it will run good, and smoke a little, but clear up. I assume you are looking to buy the truck.
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