Joey Mack

i will try to go in order....injector sleeve/cup, either way, not the issue..... shop air into the injector bore?? so when the heads were off did they see cracks? fuel lines DO NOT have seperate tubes like a john deere dozer engine,,, the lines go directly to the injector no threads at the injector, they are pressed into the injector with the nut that you see on the side of the head..... no oil will slober..... high liners is highly unlikely, and how did he know? did he use a sled gauge to check protrusion? and know where to put the pointer? did he give you the measurements?..... Mack liner protrusion on your engine is .023''-.029'' with a .002'' variance between banks.. once again, little ol'e me has has that tool... (mid-stop cutter) I cut counter bores,.... heres a picture...

this is odd for sure. the seal in the water pump is a spring loaded seal, called a mechanical seal.. stop leak is a no-no.. so is $650.00 for the pump. can you not buy PAI in your country? do you have bearing play at the fan hub? as far as advice,,, I would look at PAI, and return the gold one. PAI wont have the pulley, so make sure you know how to change the pulley without bending the impeller .. it's not hard.. jojo

do you have budd wheels?

So what's your point ?? Don't hold back, FJH...

Mack injector cups are thick and mechnicaly pressed in. These heads crack around the injector hole or between valve seats. Just keep it simple. Do all the tests that we post before you break open the piggy bank.. jojo

Do you have any pictures? I'm curious about the shape of the cab..

Your right JoeH.

I agree with Glen. Heck I bought the tools and build those engines in my my little shop at home..

I suspect EUP oring failure..

I have been able to re-use those injector lines. I take a small piece of 320 emery cloth in my finger tips and rotate the ends of the lines until the impression is all but gone. theres been many times where all 6 stayed sealed.. NO o-rings or sealant is used,, EVER... they dont leak oil, if they did you will have a bigger issue.. Buddy, I dont like to pick on mechanics, but I get the impression they dont know Mack engines.. I suggest you search out some other posts on here related to your issue, and read them.. with respect, Jojo

there arent any o-rings on the fuel lines.. the leaking sleeve is possible, which means they dropped the oil pan and pressurized the cooling system and looked up at the bottom of the liners for droplets. did they??

ok... too much to absorb.. stop them, and pull the truck home.. the injector cups on those engines dont crack. they are replaceable, but not by them.. never mind that right now.. drain the coolant down till its below the thermostat. remove the water pump belt, and bypass or cap off the air compressor coolant lines. then put a short length of stick hose straight up on the thermostat housing, and pour your coolant in the hose so its a couple inches from the top .so you can see it.. start the engine and watch it.. do it with the engine cold so you can have a lot of time to watch.. you can remove the thermostat for this test if you want too. if it perculates then you likely have a head gasket leak.. I dont see where you said coolant in the oil.. is that true?

really glad you came on board.. there are a lot of smart guys here.. not just Macks or even trucks,, farm tractors and other things too.. and we all get along pretty good too.. jojo

the bull gear carries the oil to the top part of the housing. the trough shaft carries it to the power divider like a screw pump. then the excess pours back into the top housing through drain holes. ( front rear),, the rea rear is the same with the bull gear, but the top housing is only splash lubed.

mack rears are filled starting at the power divider, then the side plug then the rear plug in the housing, and is only checked at the rear plug in the housing. the rear rear, doesnt have a power divider so you fill the side plug first then the rear plug in the housing.. they are splash lubed and any extra oil in the top reduction goes to the bowl via the spur shaft housing.. fix the leak you see and you should be good to go.

Yep,, for example this little $8,000.00 beauty.. I tuned it up and replaced worn parts. I have less than $300.00 in it and it works great.. They were going to scrap it..

yep... been there,,, still there,,, my co-workers dont throw anything out until they ask me if I want it.. 👍

Exactly. !!! FJH..

I have a Jabobs svc kit withe enough parts to rebuild 2 Jake heads..

UHhh,, this posting is 9 years old guy's.... 🤣

I dug through all my small Mack parts and only found 2 straight keys.. This is how they get us.. Make essential small parts obsolete. I wish I had a crystal ball 10 + years ago.. I may have bought a few of them, as well as other smalls.. Mack's price is $85.00.. I saw a PAI version for $103.00.. None in stock..

Geoff,, there was dead air on the phone. What also got me was that he was sure they didnt sell that part, and didnt even ask a co-worker or the manager to help him help me.. No concern for serving the customer... Young'ns have no clue how to ''serve'' folks..

It was hard to speak and grind my teeth at the same time... I called back and got my regular guy.. all good then, of course Mack is out of stock, and so is PAI...

Just need to get this tension off my chest. I just called my local Mack parts Dealer and asked for an offset cam key for an E-Tech.. The line went quiet, and then I hear, uhhh we don't have anything like that here. Then he says, we are a Mack dealer sir.. My blood pressure went up instantly.. I said,,,,,, AN E-TECH IS A MACK ENGINE... Anyway, I feel better now... Thanks, Jojo

The lightning bolt has to be ON..