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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. yeah thats what I have, no boxes, just different sizes with cutters that can be replaced, there is a threaded collar that holds the cutters in place.. If I remember, i will send you some pictures.. they are in rough shape now, stored out in the open. however, I do have a sand blast cabinet. and may be able to tune some of them up, with out causing damage..
  2. nylon lined bushings are different from the keisers, but I know you know that, I could have been clearer... sorry bud..
  3. the keiser kits are steel.. those are the only type like that that I ever used. I do not know of other metals being used.. Mech. I still have the old reamer tools from 25 years ago. they had interchangeable cutters.. with a square end for a 'T' handle. no electricity needed.. Jojo P.S. I also have a bunch of ''Flywheel housing Runout tools'' of course the engines I build have round dowels and dont really call for a runout adjustment, but I have checked runout just to be sure the housing is installed correctly....
  4. im curious??? do you have the brass air celenoid on the left side of the radiator, that sends air to the fan hub via: 1/4'' air line?
  5. I beleive they are thread-serts.. threaded bushings bonded into the original fiberglass.. Hes lucky they didnt twist out of the hood causing holes.. He may be able to drill them out. they are replaceable and there is a riveter type tool to install new ones..
  6. oil temp and pressure is what its ported for at the oil filters
  7. years ago when the bushings were just plain brass we had to fit the pins. the newer (15+ years) kits came with a nylon lined bushing. if they got a little dinged during install, I would champher them and or buff them for a smoother fit. kieser kits are like chinese hand cuffs, and with a slight twist they go right in and if the bore is good, when they set they are correct. no hammers/drivers/ cussing or buffing needed..
  8. ok. i wasnt sure... I had to go out to my shop to look at the 2V heads that I have and the gasket sets. they have grooves and rings, but i thought the machine shop added them. for updated head gaskets.. I guess I need to go ahead and build that E-6 after I finish the E-Tech that is in there now. Thanks, Jojo
  9. I have used a flapper wheel on a die grinder to fit the pins,, I got pretty good at it. it doesnt take much buffing to fit the new style kits. lining the grease holes and seams are very important.
  10. I made a cardboard tube about a foot long, and flattened it, wrapped it. With duct tape, and cut a slot in the side of one end, and formed the other end over my shop vac hose. Then all I had to do was sneak the duct back and inch with wooden wedges. Then one hand had a light and the other had the sucker. An occasional blast from a blow gun helped also.
  11. I bet the core is plugged with dirt. Pull the duct work back and blow the dirt out. It can "try" your patience. There's no filter that I know of. But I not knoweth everything
  12. Check the wires and the pins in the plugs.
  13. There is 1 or 2 sensors in the rear of the rear water manifold.
  14. I have also chocked the wheels, released the brakes, and with a pair of hose pinch off pliers, would squeeze the lines at each can til I heard the air leak change sound. But if the hoses are in poor shape, your way is better than mine. Mine is just a quickie way
  15. Lets see if hurricane Hilary (with one 'L') will interfere with Sleepy's flight to Maui?? any bet's??
  16. Its all good.. I wish I knew the answer (100%)...
  17. are the 2 temp sensors on the rear water manifold plugged in?
  18. heck, did B-models even have front brakes?
  19. I think his is the same, I did one a few years ago, it had tapered pins.. Just like your R model
  20. I totaly agree with DCW.. its a bit of labor, but I know I can do that axle within a work day, (as long as the beam and boss' are good and dont need machining).. do you have a shop and a 20Ton shop press? You dont have to pull the beam out as long as the eyes are good, which you will check with the new pin to observe fitment. Yes, micrometers are important, but you can do it with the pin.
  21. Skydawg,, Take a close look at the pictures I posted. the second one has specs that may be useful to the machine shop, when it comes to fitting the pins into the new bushings. I can e-mail them to you so you can print them. just post or P.M. your e-mail.. Jojo
  22. I wish I was smarter on these differences, but i think the liner protrusion is a different shape/style between E-6 and E-7. the 4V heads have a fire ring groove to seal the fire ring to the top of the liner, that I beleive the E-6 (2V) doesnt have.. Man I wish I could just blurt it out like I can on an E-Tech.. here are 2 pics from my books, E-6 + E-7 I was also thinking about bore diameter..
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