Joey Mack

What a rush!!! I know the feeling... I'm very happy for you !!! Jojo

688's were 350's... 690's were 300's.. so how about some pictures?? I bet there is 20+ of us that want to see 'em... I know Bob does !!

the 688S should be a 350 engine.. I bet 44K suspension,,, if the shift knob has a red splitter on the left side, its a 13 spd,,, gray button, 18 spd..

Well there you go.. Nice repair.. I have no real Knowledge of Meritor tranny's in Mack's.. Only seen a few.. It's great that you got it fixed..

You Are Kicking A$$ !!!

I use ''Overdrive Rebuilders'' in my area..

Buddy,,, I have had to rebuild a handful of engine components because someone glued a bolt head to the part to make it look like it was fixed,, I had to re-build a recently re-built engine, because someone stripped 7 sets of threads out of the block, and filled the holes with red locktite.. yeah right??? that will hold tight with 205lbft of torque on each head bolt.. anyway, been there fixed that... ( I had a good block to replace the crappy one) .... The truck is truck #476 at Hanes Construction in Lexington N.C.. CH-613.. It is still in service..

to me that 5th wheel looks good.. Yep, i would clean the top plate and look for cracks,, (non that i can see) and i dont see where the outer edges are worn out-rounded, like some brick hauler 5th wheels I have replaced, and so-on.. Like GW said, just keep track of the assembly . is the pin yoke clean and smooth without a wear mark? The trigger needs some love but, just based on these pictures, I believe, especially with your skill set, you will do a fine job.. I almost think the springs are the same ones in todays repair kit.. I like this posting.. I have re-built quite a few of these, mostly Fontains, and Jost, (kinda the same), but this Holland looks pretty easy to understand.. I expect that where the bolts go through, there is a bushing, to take the stress and wear.. Hell,,,, You got this Vlad.. I expect the bolts to have SAE threads,, 1/2''x13 threads.. Jojo

DCW... You speak some Real Truth.. Jojo

G.W. I am TRULY GREATFUL!!! I am glad-no-lucky to have you and your brain.. I hope to get a chance to shake your hand and buy you a beer or few someday... Jojo

You are a hard working guy.. your dillegence is working.. with the bearing cap off, be mindful that if you put a lot of force on the diff. Assembly, you may affect bearing pre load.. just keep doing it like you are... You are doing really good..

what i was taught, and had to do, was to remove the air fitting and put the caging bolt in the hole. there are threads deep in the hole. the bolt will secure the shift fork when you pull the axels.. otherwise the fork will drop, and then you have to pull the pumpkin out..

You can set the truck up for raising it.. if all you have any 6x6 or 8x8 wood trigs, thats fine... set the truck in position. place the blocks aside the frame in front of the front drive axle. unhook the air ride control arm, put a strap or chain around the rear axle, and manually raise the suspension(with the ride valve by hand) to raise the frame.. then set the stands in front of the front drive axle, then let it sit on the stands.. then you can go after the rear rear axle. you can use the bobcat to roll the rea rend out. or if the forks are long enough, you can pull the rear axle, (wheels off) Since there is metal bits on the magnet,, you will need to clean the whole thing anyway...

Ok... I said I was out............... well.... whatever....... can you lower the body, and lift the ass end up on stands and just pull the whole rear axle assembly out... It is on air bags... way easier to remove the whole axle and tip it up to pull the diff. out straight up.... Ooops there I go again,,, making it easy again,,, done it quite a few times...

Sorry guys.. I guess I made it sound like a piece of cake to pull a front loaded rear rear.. and I thought this was a road tractor.. I'll stay out and watch...

The part you are pulling is not very heavy, but I can see where you will have to get creative.. I have the larger tranny jack that Harbor Freight has.. it was under $300.00.. maybe that can help you.. I use mine to do other small lifting jobs and last summer I rebuilt the back box in an Eaton 10 spd. In the chassis.. I used it to pull the back box out.. yes I did weld up a jig to bolt to the table so I could use the yoke for removal and install.. just another idea.. I appreciate that you want to see what you have before sending it out... Jojo

It sounds like you are going at it pretty good given the dirt floor and engine crane.. maybe a full sheet of plywood under the crane, and some long pieces of threaded rod for guide studs, when it's time to put it together.. as far as breaking the seal, the weight of the diff. Is enough to break the sealant loose.. I'm not sure if meritor uses an internal oil pump, but if so, be aware of the plastic oil gallery, in the nose cone when you pull that apart.. I know Eaton's have them in the front diff. I cant remember Meritors...

$500.00 for a water pump.. I have no problem trying to rebuild mine, however, it is still working and not leaking. Once I drive it around my neighborhood and get it good and warmed up, I will know better.

Clean the slope on the front of the carrier housing to left side of the input housing (looking at the input).. Yours should have the letters and numbers stamped in it with a prick punch rather than stampers.. the paint is thick, so a bit of effort is needed.. No Grinders! you will grind the dots right out.. wire wheel in a fast drill or whatever will do... it will show,, the part number/ ratio/and series...

when i was at the Mack dealership. we did not do the XT upgrade, without changing the tranny to a 2013/2018 Mack tranny, and replacing the rear ends from 92/93 series to 200 series carriers.. I bet im leaving something else out.. Jojo

Welcome Aboard Mainah'.. I lived in Southern Maine for 23 years.. I worked at Maine Mack in Portland. 2000-2006...........

G.W. I really appreciate you willingness to help me.. When I get the concrete pad in front of my shop, finished, I plan to put ''Sanford'' there and do bits of work between the 2 engines I am re-building for other folks. I keep acquiring parts and have built up quite a lot of parts.. Mostly for my wiring conversion.. Sorry bud,, I am going through with the 12v changeover.. But he the starter worked well with 12volts going to it,, It is just old and worn out.. the next 2 parts I need will be a water pump and an alternator pulley that will fit on a 22SI Delco alt. for the wide belt that is on the truck.. Thank you, Jojo

No.... Look at the stool.. do you see a tall silver cup??? It's a,, Triple 'Screwdriver' holder...

Thank you.. I will try to get some pictures.. my gauges are a little rough.. oil pressure works, and amp. Gauge sits on zero when running, speedo works, fuel gauge is bad, someday I will get back to working on it.. I have been taking care of other repairs lately.. thank you very much..

I have posted about ground wiring a few times here.. search for 9-2 code and follow the ground cleaning procedures..