Joey Mack

Man I'm glad it's an MH.. so you can tip the cab and jump right in . What's the chances the shift linkage is worn and doesn't travel far enough? Gosh, it's been so long since I worked on a cabover.. I wish I was there just to look at it...

I get in a 'Zone'. I'm so deep in concentration at times, that I forget to breath... My wife gets a kick out of me when she is there when I'm building an engine.. organization is a Must.. the engine looks really good...

T2100) – Woodline Parts

I may have said that on another post.. the reverse fork is operated by a lever in the shift cover that reverses the movement of the the fork to go into the reverse gear.. if I remember right, there is a shouldered bolt with a brass bushing. If that bolt gets loose, it can cause his issue.. he may be able to see it on top of the shift cover, by trying to go in to reverse, if that bolt is worn you can see it move around..

Has the truck recently experienced a violent backlash in the drive train?? DCW makes good points. You may need to pull the main shift cover and inspect the forks, and the set bolts in the forks... I bet this truck is an, RD,RB,DM?? Which makes pulling the shift cover a half a day job..

I forgot... Remove the tensioner, there is a bolt behind it..

To pull the timing cover. Remove the fan only, steering pump, oil pan, harmonic balancer,crank hub, (installing the hub requires baking it in a small oven to 250 degrees) and very quickly putting it on til it seats. This part can be tricky.. need to remove the front engine mount stand and support the engine with a jack stand and wooden block. Then gently work it loose. There are 2 line up dowels, so twisting it loose won't happen. Take note of the seal position, for installing the new one, also,, look at the hub for a groove. If so, you can either buy a new one, or set the seal a little deeper. With caution... I can post more info as you go.. I strongly suggest that when you get the cover off, you make sure the 2 little pipe plugs in the fuel galleries are tight and sealed.. you will use a 1/4" drive ratchet to check them. Jojo

How about going in to 1st.? They share the same shift fork and sliding clutch..

I drive this truck regularly... Git'r Done!!! Oh wait,,, that;s one of the other guy's... anyway...

If your home made truck is made from 3-4 different trucks,(77,78,79) and has 2 kill switches and a starter button, instead of a key switch, and the park brake (actually works) but the release is a vise grip pliers, and,,,,,,, it Beep's when you back up,,,,,, Not only are YOU me!!!! But ,, Youuuuu Might be a Redneck...

With the way they roll cars over , here in N.C.. Everyday!! That would be a SAFETY device.. So you can roll the window down and crawl out of your car when the battery is broken, caused by the cell phone wreck..

Dammit !! I had a small rookie rod Bulldog on the forks of a 70's minibike.. Now I wish I took a picture of it.. Still have the Bulldog..

Oh My... TJC strikes again..

I bet It shot out, because you took both of the EUP bolts out, rather than using one of them to slowly raise the EUP. The thin metal clip doesn't hold the spring and plunger in place. The bottom cap does. With the spring removed, the clip keeps the plunger in place. The plunger is delicate, and is not to be held in bare hands..

For what it's worth... Iv'e seen you post your wishes a few times.. Get dialed in, and buy a truck.. You need one.. I suggest a W-900L or a 379... Just my opinion.. I love Mack's, but to find a CH/CX-613 with a 460/13 spd. and Eaton 390's or smaller, may be hard to find.. Hell,, I don't know... just ramblin'.. jojo

I'm Tryin'.. am I part phycic?

I would expect a vibration in the driveline. is it a dump truck? do you have a teel tube under the body that has the stop cable in it? maybe a weld broke and its rattling.. Lift axle shocks?? steerable lift axle tie rod?? or other parts of it?

Maybe spray paint some suspension components that move, I guess use the same color as the frame. Then go back and see if the paint is rubbed off down to shiny metal, that may point you to it..

Now,, That right there is a Priceless Lesson... MackPro, always lives up to his name...

How about bolt on stuff, like the grill guards, bumper mounts? Tough one to dia. Without seeing the truck..

Yes...thats the clip. it should not have allowed the piston to drop out.. anyway. you have a new EUP on the way, just inspect all the old parts for issues, to get an idea of what happened, then reassemble it for the 'core return'.. You seem to be doing a good job here.. be sure to clean the champher on the EUP bore, before you install the new EUP. dont want to cut the oring.. New EUP cap screws torque down 25ish lbft,1st, set,,,,, then finish at 60 lbft.. jojo

Ok,, I wanted to ask.. It can be hard to tell from a picture, and I Know these engines quite well, and wouldnt want to see a scratched roller put back in.. Keep on- keepin-on.. Jojo

Where is the D-Clip that secures the piston.? the Gold thingy... The new EUP will be complete..But you dont need a hardened spring steel piece dancin around in there.. does the EUP roller have scratches that you can catch a finger nail on? It looks scratched to me in the picture.. I'm not trying to be a Dick.. jojo

Mackpro Pedigreed Bulldog 2.8k 7 Posted June 23, 2016 This is normal, we get calls all the time on MP oil temps. And actually 250 is normal in the summer. These topics are covered often.. A good practice is to search this site for related issues. Thats how I found this one for you.. Jojo

I really need to go to the Museum and get familiar with it.. Mr. Jim Bland, the owner of Transource has asked me to register my 1948 Int. KB-7 with the museum.. I also need to get it on the road, so I can take it to the shows at the Museum.