Joey Mack

Stemco Voyager series is decent.. one pc. style, rubberized O.D. easy to install when the correct driver is not available..

Yes sir.. we would write any stored codes per/ test ECU, on the ECU with a paint pen, so that it would not fool us to think there are other issues in the truck we are diagnosing.

the area that the wear ring was on, needs to be buffed clean and inspected for chisel marks, pitting, and small dents on the horizontal face.. if it is clean and not damaged, you can use a seal that can be installed without special tool's. A Stemco voyager can be installed with care using a piece of flat stock and a mallet. CR and National make an OK seal that should be installed with the correct driver. a seal driver may be home made using a PVC pipe large enough to fit O.D. of the seal.. I dont know what size you need.. just a thought that i have..

we used to use ECU's for diag in the shop.. the base program is good.. good luck.. you did say the EUP lobe on the cam is good?

I believe in the 2 pc. stemco seal.. when it is installed with the proper tool's... For those that have figured out a different way to do it, I mean NO disrespect..

Or a rag sucked into the intake port ask me to show you???

You Go MarkT!!!

yes to elec. cleaner.. (Contact Cleaner) that is sensor safe..

I didnt care for the di-electric grease either..

ok

just for kicks... switch the wires on the EUP.. I'm curious.. I assume valve adjustment was done by the book??

how do the plugs on the EECU look? are the pins dirty?

Thank you Mech..

5# hammer is good enough..

so you are getting an 8-9 code? are you also getting a 9-2 code? I preach this almost weekly here,,,,, ground's - ground's - ground's..

with the Blue can looking tool that i have.. you put a small bead of RTV on the back side of the wear ring, and by-hand,, push it on to the spindle, then the tool , with the correct head,, ( tool numbers are printed on the Stemco seal box), and use a mallet against the tool, to drive the wear ring on to the spindle.. remove the tool, wipe off ALL excess RTV, rub the ring with gear oil, for the install.. set the seal in the hub,(with the correct installer) then, install the hub.. Its the same as any other hub install.. You cannot use the wear ring with any seal due to seal I.D. it is a matched set.. I know many of you know exactly how to install a wheel seal, I'm just posting for those that may not have a vast knowledge of the different ways.. MACKS, as far as using heat,,, I expect it is done buy guys with good skills... unlike whoever installed the wear ring in the picture..

So this is my Stemco Tool set... Yes there is light rust on them,, never mind, I clean them before using them.. But the blue can looking tool is what is used, with the correct head, to install the wear ring you posted.. They are not to be installed with a hammer..

I like the Stemco 2 pc. seal.. You need the proper seal and wear ring drivers!!!!!!!!!! Stemco does make a Voyager series that is plastic and rubber, and I have had good service from them.. Now,,,, If the area on the spindle were the seal goes is comprimised, or mabey someone, just split that seal ring with a chisel, and they went right through to the spindle and made a cut,,,, well,, your choices are slim. the Stemco 2 pc. is the way to go, with a KISS of RTV inside the wear ring before install.. If you want to see a picture of the tool, I have the tool and the heads, I can post a picture... Now, back to what FJH said, He is right, those seals are really good.. Spindle condition will be MY question.. Pictures are always welcomed...

I'm glad you saw this DCW..

BobWhite, I bent the hood by accident. My hinges are worn out. I forgot to push in before pushing down.. My 76 C-10 has the braces on it, and the 81 C-10 is perfect.. Hell, Old Blue is a homemade truck made with 3 trucks.. it's my local work horse.. 👍

Hopefully he uses the steel lifters...

After reading this bulletin, I dislike ceramic lifters even more..

Ok.. that makes sense..

Those stubby trunnion bars are new to me.. I wonder how they get installed.. the 4or5 of them I had replaced, I used axle surgeon.. parts and labor was $1500.00. but this was also over 5 years ago.. they put the whole bar in with welded on clamps..