Joey Mack

I forgot to tell you.. make up a fitting with a shut off valve. you will lose some fuel when you install the fitting assembly. so you will need to crack the valve open and pump the fuel primer until fuel comes out of the valve. This ensures that fuel is in the galleries.. then proceed with the rest of the setup.. the port is 1/4'' NPT.. you can screw an air tool nipple into the valve so you can put pressure to it.

Just use one of the rear plugs. the pressure will travel through the EUP's and fuel lines. Be sure to remove the fuel line that comes from the tanks and goes to the input of the primary filter. Then plug the port in the filter pad. That will keep the air pressure in the engine and not going back to the tank. leave the fuel pump assembled and pull it back out of the block a half inch or so, so you can see if it is dripping with pressure.. I suggest the rear plug because, when you spill fuel at the front plugs, you won't be fooled in to thinking you found the leak.. the rear plugs do not go into the oil..

So far I will stay on 'topic'.. Adkat, you make me laugh.. and your right too... I can sidetrack anything lately.. OK.. as far as the E-Tech in question.. Adkat, You said it right, in my opinion.. Yes to PAI parts, I have built 7 Mack engines so far, with PAI parts, and they run good, and fitment is 'spot-on'. The engine kits have twice as many parts and gaskets as the Mack kits.. for half the price.. The Mack tranny's are very strong, Good maintenance of the oil, air valves and shift cyl. o-rings, will allow the synchro to last a lot longer.. Yes, very expensive to fix compared to an Eaton.. How'my doin' Adkat ? 🍻

IGV... mat I suggest you pick one of the rear plugs. It takes a 1/4'' dr. ratchet to remove the plug.. I suggest a breaker bar to loosen it, because it may be tight enough to break the little ratchet. Here is a picture of the E-Tech supplement book.

Good... Just keep in touch here as you go, step-by-step.. Have you gotten a Book on the engine so you can see pictures of where the fuel galleries are and the 2 plugs in the front of the engine near the breather. there are 2 at the rear, around the corner from the #6 cylinder. They are in a straight line to the front plugs.. you will notice that the fuel inlet in the block aligns with one gallery, and the return fitting at the block is in line with the other gallery. Fuel surrounds the EUP's between the o-rings. You may have noticed 2 sets of holes in the EUP's when you had them out..

I will suggest you do the fuel pressure test that I posted earlier. It will take a few hours, but it is better than just doing a re-build, and you really need to know where the leak is!! Otherwise, what ever you put into the engine will be wasted, because the fuel leak is still there..

Stealth Brake..

Good Deal Bob.. Last week, I was looking at our whole house HVAC unit.. The A/C went out last July. I had saved enough money to buy a new unit, only to find out I need an HVAC liscense to buy one.. That sucked.. So $3,000.00 turned into $6,000.00 +.. I decided to do some some trouble shooting, and found the Start Capacitor was bad.. I replace both of them, ($44.00) Well, ''on a Happier Note''.. ''Kaboom'' It works perfectly.. Hopefully I get a lot more service from it.. Dodged a Bullet there.. I hope you have a great day Bob..

I have pictures.. There are fire rings, the white box has the part number. The other 2 boxes are the part numbers for the rest of the gasket sets.

Mine have fire rings.. if I remember, when I get home I will get a picture of them. They are still in the package.

My hearing is about 50 percent. Ears are clogged all the time.. Thank You China....

Well, you are American.. North American, that is.. if it wasn't for our leaders, we would be on the same team.

Terry, I went back to the begining of this thread... I just saw that he has 18 bolt heads... I have to apologize.. I have a 20 bolt engine block, and 20 bolt heads.. So disregard my statements about liners and fire ring grooves... Truly sorry,,, Jojo

yes

I dont know the reason for replacing the spring(s).. , so I thought I would post some specs from my E-6,, 2 valve book.. It shows the compressed spring pressure and measurements.. I used this a couple years ago, when I was inspecting an oil pump for re-use.. Jojo Sorry about the crooked picture..

America!!!!! F@&k Yeah.. !!!!!

I'm curious... Is yours broken? Or did you pressure test the spring, and it failed?

Yes My heads are correct.. it's not easy to find someone who knows how to cut the fire ring grooves in my area..

Maybe he meant he was coming back from a "Mine". You know,. A long deep hole in the ground 🥃

I didn't see his birthday either.. I do notice that birthdays are 1/2 a day early.. Bob, your birthday was posted at supper time the day before

Looks like it was filled with water too may times.. I hope you didnt get hurt.. They usually break when your feet are off the ground trying to hit that last notch..

I have a 673 in my shop.. I had to change the pistons when I added a turbo.. So END-to an- ENDT... I am not an E-6 Guru.. I just did some reading and asked a few people about the change over.. My new head gaskets have fire rings. I wish I knew a lot more about these engines.. and when I finish this one, I will have to make a jig to mount it in, so I can start it up. Thats going to be an effort..

In case you can't see it good.. the whole dash board was covered in mini Rubber Ducky's. And the antenna is stacked with them.

Rubber ducky,. I saw this today and immediately thought of you...

China is still trying to create a way to kill Americans efficiently.. they will probably release the virus from the Balloons that are allowed to fly over us and Canada.. One of our jets will blow it up, and spread the Virus for them..