Joey Mack

yes, pull the valve covers, certainly wouldnt hurt to drop the oil pan. if you have lifter issues there will likely be bits in the pan. you describe the sound as a clicking. so it is not popping back into the intake or ''poof poof poof'' out the exhaust? is the oil level raising up, and /or is the oil diluted with fuel. you can do a simple 'halo' test on a piece of cardboard to see if the oil is diluted.

it wouldnt hurt to check lash again,, have you ever run the rack on an ASET-I or C engine? Just curious.. It is not the same as Earlier Macks, Cat or John Deere, for example.. Jojo

when was the last time valve lash was checked?

Yes I did forget about the crayons,, I didnt use them much.. as far as a stethoscope goes, Yes I have one, but I actually use a long peice of 3/8'' car brake line to listen to the engine and so-on.. The temp gun is pretty cool, you can stand back and take temperature.. sorry Old Man but there are some neat ways to diagnose,,, i mean trouble shoot, issues.... I always chuckle when you post.. Jojo

Did you use a stethoscope to locate the sound? Do you have an infrared temp gun to check the exhaust. Manifold per each cylinder?

current liners omitted o-rings ( around 1999 I think) at the top of the liner, and just uses RTV on the counter bore/shelf.. No o-rings on the liner at the mid-stop. I have some pulled liners in my shop if you want to see a picture of a current liner. If you get to the point where you think you will pull liners, get back with us.. I take pictures of what I do and save them for threads like this one.. Jojo

That's good RSDisposal.. it was an effort, but you got it.

As far as the timing marks go, 2 cyls are adjust on each position, but not at the same time. 1&6/2&5/3&4.. but just because you pointed the pointer to 1&6, doesn't mean you are up on #1 . You could be up on #6, and if you adjust #1 then follow the firing order as you rotate the engine, your adjusts will be done 180 degrees out.. are you sure you were up on #1 when you ran the valves, also, do you have 2 pointers on the front, if so, one is for the injection pump timing... Jojo

In the N.C. mountains, Christmas Tree farmers use them to cut our Christmas trees.. that's all I know .

Ditto...

Here is a sample of a finished engine from my shop.. I know it may look like a 'Rattle can rebuild', but trust me, I spend a lot of time cleaning and measuring as I tear down, and as I re-build.. I also made all the lines accept for the Jake Brake oil lines.

You crack me up Mech.. If we were closer, I would be proud to have you in my shop. Hourly rate?? not sure,, would $25/hr cash be too little?? I dont charge too much to build them. Typically my customer buys the parts per my request, then if the engine is in the truck, my labor is $5,000.00.. if its and ASET-C in-frame I add $500.00 more. Out of the truck and in my shop, it's $4,000.00 for labor, and if the wire harness needs to be repaired, it's $50/hr plus materials for that additional repair.. Basically, I can build a Mack E-Tech/ ASET/ or E-7. For around $15,000.00. new heads raise the price, based on market price, Turbo's, are decided on early in the job,

Well, I made the best of my 3 day weekend.. 5 hours each day in the shop. the engine is clean, primered, the liners are in, and the crank is in and done.. I sorted out the old parts from the good parts, and prepped a set of connecting rods. I need to get 4 new deck dowels, and a buttress bolt from Mack tomorrow, so I can load pistons and install the heads.. Thanks for reading my post guys,, I know it's not super exciting, but I figure someone may see something they need to know, or offer advice to me.. Jojo

Yes MarkT,, It is not mine though.. I am blessed that the engine owner is kind enough to let me use it.. Jojo

it almost looks like the receiver is backwards.. I guess it's more of the new A.I. crap.. Still funny though..

thats too funny, I see it now..

i cut a liner short so that i can pull it out with ease.. works like a charm.. I set 6 liners today .. all within .001'' per bank.. The shackle is my home made 'sled gauge'.. I check liner height with it..

Yep, I keep it greased, you wouldnt believe how easy it is to crank it up, and the pull the pin to rotate it.. Of course when it is fully built it's a little tougher, but still, wayyyyy better than doing these 'in-chassis'.... Just sayin'..

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7/8'' 12 point bone wrench.. a home made one is just fine.. cut the box end off of a wrench and weld a 1/2'' drive socket to the cut end, and then you can use a 1/2'' drive breaker bar to get it done.. I think the torque is about 175 lbft..

Here is a couple pics of the PAI engine kits that I use.. Much better than a Mack Kit..

Alright Mechaholic...... This ones for you.. Here are some of my home made tools. I have used them many times.. See some of us arent fancy pants.. By the way, ALL of my 7 torque wrenches are ''click type'' not digital, with a beeper.. Any guess's as to which tool is the best one?? She's polishing the crank journals for me.

Keith, here is a couple pics of how the engine stand works.. Jojo

the part you cant see, is the flat stock that is drilled to match up with the alternator bracket.. I think its 1/2'' thick.. its stout.. I'm heading back out there, if I rotate it I will take pictures of it, and post them.

I guess I should have posted these pic's, Keith.. It's an ENDT 673, for a '61-ish B-Model.. The stand was made by one of his employee's.. its a strong stand but I have to use my engine crane to rotate it.. and I will have to take it off the stand and put it on blocks so I can put the flywheel housing on it, cant put the pan on without the front and rear covers.. I'm just glad it's not in the truck.. just sayin'.. Jojo