Joey Mack

That looks great.. I also like the wooden 'Snap-on' creeper.... There is nothing like building one of these engines on a good stand.. I'm doing one as well, and Man! what a difference. I havent used a stand in decades. always did 'In-frames'... I'm ruined now!! Looking forward to the 'Run-in'.. Jojo

That is great.!! We love em' don't we.. My Dachsund is named ''Mack'' I call him 'B-Rat'

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Ok, TJC... Just to prove even more that I am Nut's!! I buy cheapo rawhides, and drop them into a pot of simmering chicken or beef broth for 2 minutes, then drain them.. then I put them in the Beer fridge, and treat them when they are good boy's...

Amazon just left here.. They got a new box of cookies delivered... Damn Brat's !!

Their bored, and kinda 'pissed' Daddy keeps a cookie jar in the shop, but I didnt give them any... They were lazy at work and didn't earn a cookie.. You can see it it in the middle picture. its the jug up on the shelf by my security monitor.. Trust me, they are spoiled Brats..

Ryon,,, since you have another post, about not getting into reverse, I would pull the shifter off the tranny and check it for wear. check the bushings for the shifter shaft. hopefully the service kit is available, and re-build it..

Well after a string of needed Home repairs, and repairs to mine and my Wife's trucks, and an emergency repair on a customers Granite, I finally got back to work on the E-Tech engine in my shop. As you can see, my helpers are making sure I stay busy.. I also found a ''Blast From the Past'' item, in one of my tool drawers... Too bad the label is worn out..

did he check the injectors with a laptop, or did he roll the cam over and check the injector preload?

DCW,, I dont remember much about MH's.. I'm trying to remember the shifter shaft, and the shift cover on the tranny.. I would like to see pictures.. The 200 series has a shift cover that can be removed and it has the rails in it, unlike a 100 series where the rails go through the case's.. I do have the svc. manuals for this tranny.. i can post pic's if needed.. sure would like to build a couple more 100's and 200's, just to refresh my memory..

Man I'm glad it's an MH.. so you can tip the cab and jump right in . What's the chances the shift linkage is worn and doesn't travel far enough? Gosh, it's been so long since I worked on a cabover.. I wish I was there just to look at it...

I get in a 'Zone'. I'm so deep in concentration at times, that I forget to breath... My wife gets a kick out of me when she is there when I'm building an engine.. organization is a Must.. the engine looks really good...

T2100) – Woodline Parts

I may have said that on another post.. the reverse fork is operated by a lever in the shift cover that reverses the movement of the the fork to go into the reverse gear.. if I remember right, there is a shouldered bolt with a brass bushing. If that bolt gets loose, it can cause his issue.. he may be able to see it on top of the shift cover, by trying to go in to reverse, if that bolt is worn you can see it move around..

Has the truck recently experienced a violent backlash in the drive train?? DCW makes good points. You may need to pull the main shift cover and inspect the forks, and the set bolts in the forks... I bet this truck is an, RD,RB,DM?? Which makes pulling the shift cover a half a day job..

I forgot... Remove the tensioner, there is a bolt behind it..

To pull the timing cover. Remove the fan only, steering pump, oil pan, harmonic balancer,crank hub, (installing the hub requires baking it in a small oven to 250 degrees) and very quickly putting it on til it seats. This part can be tricky.. need to remove the front engine mount stand and support the engine with a jack stand and wooden block. Then gently work it loose. There are 2 line up dowels, so twisting it loose won't happen. Take note of the seal position, for installing the new one, also,, look at the hub for a groove. If so, you can either buy a new one, or set the seal a little deeper. With caution... I can post more info as you go.. I strongly suggest that when you get the cover off, you make sure the 2 little pipe plugs in the fuel galleries are tight and sealed.. you will use a 1/4" drive ratchet to check them. Jojo

How about going in to 1st.? They share the same shift fork and sliding clutch..

I drive this truck regularly... Git'r Done!!! Oh wait,,, that;s one of the other guy's... anyway...

If your home made truck is made from 3-4 different trucks,(77,78,79) and has 2 kill switches and a starter button, instead of a key switch, and the park brake (actually works) but the release is a vise grip pliers, and,,,,,,, it Beep's when you back up,,,,,, Not only are YOU me!!!! But ,, Youuuuu Might be a Redneck...

With the way they roll cars over , here in N.C.. Everyday!! That would be a SAFETY device.. So you can roll the window down and crawl out of your car when the battery is broken, caused by the cell phone wreck..

Dammit !! I had a small rookie rod Bulldog on the forks of a 70's minibike.. Now I wish I took a picture of it.. Still have the Bulldog..

Oh My... TJC strikes again..

I bet It shot out, because you took both of the EUP bolts out, rather than using one of them to slowly raise the EUP. The thin metal clip doesn't hold the spring and plunger in place. The bottom cap does. With the spring removed, the clip keeps the plunger in place. The plunger is delicate, and is not to be held in bare hands..

For what it's worth... Iv'e seen you post your wishes a few times.. Get dialed in, and buy a truck.. You need one.. I suggest a W-900L or a 379... Just my opinion.. I love Mack's, but to find a CH/CX-613 with a 460/13 spd. and Eaton 390's or smaller, may be hard to find.. Hell,, I don't know... just ramblin'.. jojo