Joey Mack

Looks airy to me.. I bet inside the tanks looks like beer suds...

The reset screw part number is 215SB321..

Yep,,,,,

Hell Yeah!!!!

Look at Eaton 9 spring ''Easy Pedal'' clutch for Mack E-7... Problem solved,, the whole clutch kit is in one box. just have to buy a pilot bearing and a clutch brake.. if you have to replace the cross shaft bushings and shaft and fork, they are available, and keep up with us and we will guide you along.

I'm sorry about my poor spelling.. the yokes get set to .010" while you are adjusting the valves or when the rocker shafts are off.. if the yokes are not even, it puts a side load on the bridge/yoke pin, and can break the pin.. I cant tell you how many of those I had removed with a welder and a slide hammer...

Ok.. good find..

Yokes are set to.010"

Improper adjust ment of the valve yoke reset pin can cause this as well

that is great news... so to be clear... did you get the engine and trans too?? I hope so... jojo

see... I told you that you are a Guru...

I'm going to take a stab at this..... right -or-wrong.. I believe they were RW 6-or-713 ST's....

after the 70's they were aluminum from behind the cab and back.. I think they were 7/16'' thick... I have only been around a few of them, certainly not a guru on these..

yes

OK, keep in touch with us.. I bet we get this dialed in.. Jojo What black box made sounds??

I see your name is OLDMAN... I like it... are you new to the truck that you have? If so,, trust me.... it's all good if so... This forum has so many smart guys of older age, it will be a blessing for you .. I hope you dont find my posting offensive... Jojo

Its a CH, still has an acc. relay in the dash, probably a cube style plugged in by the fuse panels, left side.. JoeH, i'm pretty sure that on the firewall celenoid there is a large power wire that goes the the cab, then through the cab relay as you have stated.. With respect, Jojo and yes, My bet is its an E-Tech... V-Mac III like you say.. I forgot to add the on the firewall next to the starter relay there is a black one.. that is a ground breaker.. If it fails, it will cause the issue you have. you can jump the terminals for a minute to see if she lights back up..

you been away for a while MarkT, but you came back with a vengeance.. It's good to see you again.... Jojo

Uhhh,,, I dont remember that... well, i am away from them in the dealership for a while now.. We would just hook up PTT and make adjustments.. Or am I full of SH!T??

the starter celenoid on the firewall is a main power source to the truck.. check the terminals and cable ends..

is it coming on hard or is it just coming in slow and then going out slow??

I know one thing.... if this is his first big truck clutch job,,, He picked a 'Doozy'

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If you have to replace the rear main seal, I have a tool that is still available and it works great. I can post pictures and part numbers for the tool.. Jojo

assuming you have a Mack transmission, it is very heavy, I think around 700 pounds.. I have a transmission jack from harbor frieght that is decent and strong enough. it is the biggest one they offer in the store, around $300.00 (4 years ago), dont know the prices in your area.. I have a few suggestions... when i do a clutch in a DM, i remove the right side door.. it may take a half hour or so but you will gain a ton of room to get it there and pull the seat and floor pan.., also, when you have the floor out, this is the time to decide whether you want to replace the treadle valve and brake pedal base. next, there are no rear engine mounts, so the engine will need to be supported before pulling the transmission back. now on the plus side, you can pull the doghouse and get even more room. next,,, if you have to do any work on or under the rear valve cover this is a great time to do that as well, because you will have room and you can lower the engine after the transmission is out, and easily remove the valve cover.. I am adding work to this job, but trust me, if you do it during the clutch job, you will thank me later.. Just imagine having to do those other repairs individually, and the work to get in there to fix it. You may want to inspect the throttle pedal base too. they corrode the heel plate and nutserts (for the brake pedal) are still available. the rest is just 'good ole' hard work.. Jojo