Joey Mack

Which tranny do you have?

All good.. you have so much knowledge that it may take a bit more time to move other knowledge out of the way in order to find the one your looking for.. your brain is full...

That is before my time Mech.. I started out on X107 and 1070B.. then 200 series, and then 300 series. Bearing race is in the bearing cover, so pulling the cover allows the counter shaft to drop a little..

Thats the panel that is in the cab. The reverse lights are fused in the box under the hood below the middle of the wind shields.

Yeah. But I drive mine daily, it brought a pallet of concrete home Friday. 56 bags. 60pounds each.. anyway.. just pikin some fun at this..

Ether is a big no no!!!

Well Mackey... It's an ASET-I... just pull the exh. manifold (with the turbo still attached) inspect behind the turbo center section for cracks. if there are no cracks, replace the gaskets, re-condition the ends of the fuel lines, new exh. studs and nuts, and be done with it??? Do they even know how? and do they know the sealing/torqueing procedure for the 12 studs and nuts and how to torque condition the fuel lines? without any underlying issues, this job can be done in less than 4 hours based upon cleaning and prep, so give it 6 hours to allow for 6 smoke breaks.. just sayin'..

Hell I have one too.. 🍻 🤣

WTF!!!!!

do you have the speed sensor that is threaded and has a silver lock nut? It has to be set a specific depth... turned all the way in, then '1' full turn out, lock it down.. I still think you have a grounding issue with what you described..

Dry o-rings in the shift cylinders. They get neglected. I suggest buying oring kits and re sealing them.. also make sure the air pressure is correct, above 90 psi.

There should be arrows cast into the filter pad showing direction

Your funny Bob.. I think it is.. expand the picture and look at hi left foot.. it looks like the picture was cut out and pasted ( with real paste, the olden days way ) to the truck..

Third row from the left half way down. 2 fuses, ECM and Back up lights..

so , if you remove the bottom countershaft PTO/Bearing housing, the countershaft will drop... it can drop out of ''timing''.. that is why I said to use a bar through the side cover..as far as a 12 spd, my knowledge sucks.. it is still triple counter shaft, so I expect the same outcome if the lower countershaft is not supported before removing the lower Bearing/PTO out drive cover. It is not complicated, if you secure the countershaft..

I'm lost, Mech... I'm thinkin about 107"s are you talking TRD72's and such.. ?? I may need to back out, so I dont post wrong info..

the side mount PTO uses a seperate gear, no timing required.. prying up on the lower countershaft keeps that shaft 'timed' while the work is being done.. the bearing cover for the lower shaft is the same as the upper (2) if you decide to not use the lower for a PTO drive..

if the PTO work's,,, run-it.. I dont want to 'scare anyone here' so I WILL, take the time to write the info. No need to re-think what you want to do, unless you may not have the skill set to do the repair.. I mean that with full respect.. I hope I didnt offend you.. jojo

OK.... so... when you remove this low mounted PTO off,, first,, drain the oil. then after you get the PTO off or the whole thing, keep track of the shims, do not bend them or mess them up... buy another bearing cap like the top 2, they are the same... heres the other deal.. there is a bearing race inside the PTO bearing cover.. you will have to replace that bearing race. the proper way is to replace the bearing on the lower counter shaft as a set. which requires taking the back box apart.. so.... depending on your need and purpose of this truck,,, you can get a lower bearing housing with a bearing race installed or buy a new bearing race... to install.. the shims are important and must be put back in.. Bearing pre-load is .002''-.005'' on re-used bearings.. So, its on you to feel good about the roller bearing condition, when you pull the lower cap off. also, another very important thing... before you remove the PTO assembley, pull a side cover off and wedge a clean bar in there to hold the lower counter shaft in its position.. if it drops too low and moves slightly, it can be put back in place 1 tooth off.. A little pressure from the bar pushing UP is ok.. It will keep the lower counter shaft timed.. then when you SLOWLY install the new lower cover, before you tighten it up (done) you can pull the bar out.. I hope I help you here.. keep in touch.. Jojo

JoeH has good point as well as 880 Joe, and This Joe, asks,,, when you put the flywheel housing on did you put a generous bead of MACK GRAY RTV, around the mounting surface on the block and cam plug seam?

I like the truck and the progress.. The fuel line routing is typically, From the tank, to the Primary filter, then to the lift pump, then to the secondary filter, then to the injection pump.. Just in case that was a question.. Really glad to see the updated pics.. Jojo

Paul, here in the East side of U.S.A. we call those tire caps on the roads,, Gators.... Lots of them with really good tread on them, what a waste..

fuse 41 in the fuse box under the hood by the steering column.. Do the reverse lights work, and it s just the indicator light? Manual tranny has a switch in the top for reverse. 2 wires going to it..

Ouch!! Did it hurt the Volvo?