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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. MACKS,, ''You the man''.... That is the answer the 'poster' needed... all he needs is another top bearing cover and o-ring, and he can cap that lower counter shaft.
  2. yes, thats a high dollar tool that grabs the snap ring.. you can grind a cheapo jaw puller down, and use a lady slipper bar (with care) to start the bearing out a bit or all the way as long as you are not gouging the housing. you can put a peice of sheet metal under the bar for protection. anyway.. those Kent Moore tools are crazy high priced...
  3. Your not crazy Mech.. Like I said earlier,,, you have so much knowledge, it takes a minute to find what your looking for.. 🍻
  4. they do.. a 2 jaw puller can remove the bearings... its coming back to me now..
  5. yep,, no need to worry about supporting the counter shaft.. Im glad you had that book.. I dont have any 100 series books,,, (yet)
  6. so I saw a picture of the bearing, (in my head) in a 107(0) the bearings are pressed on the end of the counter shafts and the covers are flat.. I sprayed some PB Blaster in my ears and it loosened up some of the rust.. Jojo
  7. it is stamped in the side of the main box, rear of the fill plug.. It is probably filled with dirt.. a wire brush should get it done..
  8. It could be.. I'm rusted real bad on 1070's.. I know 200,and 300 have races in the caps..
  9. Which tranny do you have?
  10. All good.. you have so much knowledge that it may take a bit more time to move other knowledge out of the way in order to find the one your looking for.. your brain is full...
  11. That is before my time Mech.. I started out on X107 and 1070B.. then 200 series, and then 300 series. Bearing race is in the bearing cover, so pulling the cover allows the counter shaft to drop a little..
  12. Thats the panel that is in the cab. The reverse lights are fused in the box under the hood below the middle of the wind shields.
  13. Yeah. But I drive mine daily, it brought a pallet of concrete home Friday. 56 bags. 60pounds each.. anyway.. just pikin some fun at this..
  14. Ether is a big no no!!!
  15. Well Mackey... It's an ASET-I... just pull the exh. manifold (with the turbo still attached) inspect behind the turbo center section for cracks. if there are no cracks, replace the gaskets, re-condition the ends of the fuel lines, new exh. studs and nuts, and be done with it??? Do they even know how? and do they know the sealing/torqueing procedure for the 12 studs and nuts and how to torque condition the fuel lines? without any underlying issues, this job can be done in less than 4 hours based upon cleaning and prep, so give it 6 hours to allow for 6 smoke breaks.. just sayin'..
  16. do you have the speed sensor that is threaded and has a silver lock nut? It has to be set a specific depth... turned all the way in, then '1' full turn out, lock it down.. I still think you have a grounding issue with what you described..
  17. Dry o-rings in the shift cylinders. They get neglected. I suggest buying oring kits and re sealing them.. also make sure the air pressure is correct, above 90 psi.
  18. There should be arrows cast into the filter pad showing direction
  19. Your funny Bob.. I think it is.. expand the picture and look at hi left foot.. it looks like the picture was cut out and pasted ( with real paste, the olden days way ) to the truck..
  20. Third row from the left half way down. 2 fuses, ECM and Back up lights..
  21. so , if you remove the bottom countershaft PTO/Bearing housing, the countershaft will drop... it can drop out of ''timing''.. that is why I said to use a bar through the side cover..as far as a 12 spd, my knowledge sucks.. it is still triple counter shaft, so I expect the same outcome if the lower countershaft is not supported before removing the lower Bearing/PTO out drive cover. It is not complicated, if you secure the countershaft..
  22. I'm lost, Mech... I'm thinkin about 107"s are you talking TRD72's and such.. ?? I may need to back out, so I dont post wrong info..
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