Joey Mack

I bet you are right Mark T..

How about this?? You just put new oil in it,, and pressure is good now... Run the truck and keep your eyes on it... Then get back to us.. All of us who are mechanics/ owners, know that this is a challenge.. Just keep in touch, and post all of what you did, and what the truck did.. with respect, Jojo

It's a great Picture... I love it Tom.. jojo

With the truck running,,, have you tried to wiggle the acc. relay wires and the key switch and any other wires related to starting the truck.. ? for some reason I am leaning towards a weak wire connection.. Of course. looking at the fuel delivery side is very important as well.. Did you say it ''just shuts off'' -or- does it ''die slow''?

so what did you do before this oil change? did you flush out the sensors? I am still concerned about the Halo test.. Did you send an oil sample out for analysis?

Thank you Mech... Yes, I am blessed... and she is ''Built Like a Mack Truck'' I don't F$#K with her because she WILL Whoop!! My A$$... She is sitting next to me right now TELLING me what to type.. .

N.C. is pretty leiniant.. I came here from Maine... Less rules here... She was so happy with the new headlights, that she said... my fog lights look Sh!t-e.. I just ordered the fog lights too.. I know its boring post but... it is .. shop talk..

She (My Wife) has driven a few CH's and RD's... and a 2019 GR104F tri-axle dump truck.. She wanted that tag on her truck..

Hey Bud's.. My wifes '04 Avalanche headlights were worn out. I buffed them over a year ago, but now,,, not so good. anyway, I found a set of headlights on-line for $105.00 delivered.. Yes From China.. anyway,, it took 15 minutes to install all 4 of them.. Well worth it.. Before and after pics..

if you are able to get the oil pressure to read correctly,, I suggest an oil change and test drive it and check the oil.. when you fill it with new oil to the full line, take a picture of the dipstick.. then after 30 minutes, shut it off, let it sit for 10 minutes, and check the level again.. if it has changed a lot then you may still have fuel getting in.. Let us know...

Yes. To a point .. but. Since you have a concern, you may want to keep testing.

I always forget. The one with 3 wires is it.. I think.. the other is temp. It will have a brass probe on the end. The pressure sensor has a small opening in the end.

It is possible,. With this new info... Check to see if that EUP has broken and /or loose hold down bolts.. if so,, the EUP is moving up and down, riding the cam lobe.. it WILL leak... Should see leakage outside too..

Hopfully its that or the EUP o-rings..

FJH,, I'm glad you posted your opinion.. I re built those 2 engines last year because of it..

I looked again... It almost looks like that left rear leaves are cracked right behind the u-bolts..

I like the grease on the slack adjuster.. The spring end moved to one side indicates the plate in the rubber bolster is broken loose. I bet if you turn the truck hard right or left, and set the brakes and get out, the drives will be offset.. is the other end of the crooked spring moved to the opposite side?

Thanks FJH.. I just went through this last summer with 2 in a row, an E-Tech that had a bad fuel pump, and the fuel washed the bearings, (Re-build)... The second was an ASET.. I found both compression rings on #3+#4 piston were stuck in the grooves.. and also found the hidden gallery plugs loose..

yes

Yes the lift pump can fail.. (Your unit is updated from the E-Tech series. those had a few issues).. when the pan is down, get familiar with the space between the front timing cover and the fuel pump..( its barely an inch of space) put your eyes on the drive gear as best you can.. spray brake clean up there to wash the engine oil off the gear and block.. let it dry or use shop air to dry it.. when you do the pressure test, if you see fuel dripping from that spot, its highly likely the fuel pump seal has failed, and the pump will need to be replaced.. its tricky, but you can pull the fuel pump away from the block a bit to let it drip out side the engine to check for a leak, because above the fuel pump gear is another 1/4'' pipe plug that is in the fuel gallery.. it is below the one you posted a picture of.. If it leaks (and it can) it will go directly into the crank case. if you have the fuel pump pulled back, (all lines and filter still installed) and pressure test the fuel gallery, and fuel is NOT dripping from the fuel pump but is running down the front of the block from the fuel pump area, then that little bastard plug is leaking.. Are you following me so far?? I am not trying to build a mountain with a molehills worth of dirt, but I have been here many times, and with the cost of firing a parts cannon nowadays, I make sure I test as much as I can... even if the labor is a bit much.. jojo

I guess I ''Sidetracked'' a bit there.. anyway, I suppose I should copy and paste it to ''Best of Biden''

Liberal Progressive Democrats, ruined the Democrat Party, and now they are destroying the U.S.-oF A. Promoting what all of us know is Morally wrong, and telling us to accept it.. All the while, letting criminals off with minor or no consequences. And also putting Black against White, because they need to keep a 'War' going in America.. Watch and see what will happen when the courts are run by Progressive judges with agenda's rather that the rule of LAW... If they can accuse Trump of 34 felonies without listing them, They will surely destroy every Conservative that is on trial, (no matter their status in society) even if there is a video proving innosense.

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yes

yes. You can remove the fuel line that comes from the tank to the primary fuel filter, pull the fitting out of the filter pad and plug the port, so you can maintain pressure.. I suggest using a pressure regulator and start at 50 PSI and check it. it may take a minute or 2 to see a leak.. dont go higher than 70 PSI.. Be cautious..