Joey Mack
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Everything posted by Joey Mack
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Yeah, I forgot that important tid-bit of info Bob.. Have fun... I got to see the video.. BobWhite posted it... Very cool..
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It might be time to fix an adult beverage and watch football... Just sayin' jojo
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Cool, Thanks...
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Bob,, my guess is its unplugged...
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With the air pressure up above 85PSI. duplicate the issue, and while it is buzzing,, work the turn signal wand left and right and around in circles to see if there is a short in the signal wand. They are linked..
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there are several of them,, check to see if any of the wires to the pressure switches behind the pedals are un-plugged or chafed through causing a 'short'
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how about the air switches above the pedals?
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What is the air pressure when this happens? If its above 60 PSI, on an RD the (Pedal Operated) brake light switch is on the center of the firewall under the hood... Has any work been done to it lately? any air pressure switches been replaced? jojo
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What exactly is the question?? PTO's for that tranny are everywhere. The mounting hole is a common 8 hole set-up. So you have a 5 speed, with no back box? Once you know what ratio PTO you need, you are all set. then you choose a PTO mounted pump, or get a PTO with a stub shaft and a yoke for a remote mounted pump, driven by a drive shaft.. The piggy backed set up is good, and there are support bracket kits that require a little welding, but you get to custom fit it to the back of the tranny... I hope I helped you on this.. There are some other guys that know quite a bit about PTO set-up's.. Maybe a few will 'Post'... jojo
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Bob,, I have tried a couple ways to see the video, but I cant seem to get it done.. Sorry bud,, I'm sure it is a cool video.. jojo
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Well I made a little more progress on my scrap metal cooker/smoker... Not quite a pretty thing but it is solid. I just have to build a hot fire in it to clean it out, then paint all but the lid with some stove paint.. and I guess I could try to clean the lid.. I had a grill fire a while back, because I dont scrub my grill, just scrape the grates..
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2015 Mack MP8 injector cups
Joey Mack replied to Shark11408's topic in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
if you put grease on the tap it helps to collect the millings.. not perfect but better than nothing.. and like 'FJH' says... valves closed.. which will be the case, as the rocker shaft will be off the engine during this repair.. Jojo -
#1 only..
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ok.. well stick around and wait for the guys that still work on these to help guide you.. jojo
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yes with seal housing removed.. yes to seal installed into the housing.. RTV on the seal is not recommended due to the red or green sealant coating on the seal, however..... you can use your professional judgment on that... also,,,, since you ar removing the seal housing.. I have also tapped on the wear ring with a small hammer to make a flat spot on the wear ring, and this will loosen the ring enough to pull it off with a pick tool.. just hit the ring and not the crank.. seal housing has a gasket.. Mack Gray RTV is your friend... jojo
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Any time sir... There is a bunch of us that will offer help. jojo
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leaving it in just helps from spilling a bunch of coolant.. no biggie.... it should run at 185.. YOUR WELCOME..
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so it stays running if you pump the primer?? the tandem pumps on them are not something I like.. There is a drive coupler between the fuel and steering pump that is joined by a small round slotted coupler... it is a piece of junk. and when they wear, the drive can cut a hole onto the coupler and just spin.. They should have used a 'lovejoy' coupler like a Series 60 12.7 has........ seperating the tandem pump is a bit of a job.. are you familiar with the setup? jojo
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Yes Sir !! it works everytime.. no need to drain it, just open it..
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Hi Guy's.. From time to time I see post's about re-setting the dipswitches on the back of a speedometer.. I'm posting this service bulletin with the hopes that they can look for the bulletin in E-Media.. If not, P.M. me and I will try to help.. Jojo
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if you were to drill out the block for bigger bolts, you will also need to drill out the EUP's.. I think that would give more problems in the future, especially if you have to warranty an EUP.. And I can see the ears breaking off the EUP when you try to torque it down passed 60 lbft.. Maybe just check bolt torque here and there, and replace them annually if you really have a concern.. Another thing that helps, is to oil the bolts, and wipe them off so there is not enough to hydraulic lock them in the hole, only for them to relax and become loose.. jojo
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It wouldnt hurt to apply a thin bead of RTV to the inside of the wear ring, then just wipe off the excess after its installed.. You got this..
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The original heat shields should be enough.. They also help keep 'crud' from building up on the EUP's and wires, which will hold heat in.. I am curious what ideas get posted.. Jojo
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If you want to, you can use a 3/8" extension on a breaker bar, and remove the plug on the top of the front water manifold behind the thermostat housing. As you unscrew it and it gets loose you may hear air come out.. leave the plug in just a bit, then when coolant comes out ,, tighten it up.. For years now, when ever I fill an E-7/E-Tech, I always remove that plug.. It saves me time and it does very well at bleeding the air.. Jojo
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In addition to Onyx's post's.. do you have a boost leak where the turbo pipe and/or the C.A.C. pipes mate up? there are o-rings there that can leak.. Good luck, Onyx is pretty smart about the MP's.. jojo
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