Joey Mack

200 kpa converts to 29 PSI.. that's pretty good.. I don't recall a boost sensor on that engine, or a waste gate turbo.. what else was done to the engine recently.

Did the code go away?

The post is 10 years old.. I suggest starting one of your own. Add the year and model. Many guys will see it better..

I totaly understand your statement about working it, rather than working on it... AMEN...

''A Drunk Man's Word's,, are a Sober Man's Thought's'' Just sayin'..

Still awesome!! Is it ok if I copy you?

I learned many years ago..... Don't F@#k with a creature that can bleed for 5 days, and Not Die..... Just saying..

Thats pretty cool.. I noticed the rear stand is narrow, and yet the engine ran smooth enough to not tip over, Impressive.. I have an E-Tech in my shop right now, but hope to finish the E-6 later this year..

Cheer's Mate 🍻

Bob, My thought's on what you said is this.. All of you old timers, and guys like me that have knowledge, have knowledge about Pre-Volvo Macks.. There are a lot of topics about MP engines and M-Drive tranny's and electronic's issues.. Most of us are Mechanical guys, and may get lost about the Volvo Infection that happened to MACK. I know I do, and I worked on these POS's for 5 years... I am happy to lose all of the knowledge I have gained on MP's.. anyway.. I will stop here... I'm good at sidetracking... jojo

The main box is not synchronized, the back box is.. its a 9 spd. box with a 2 spd. splitter, 'if you will'.. your biggest ''Girly Dick'' fan... Jojo

Paul,, I was taught to double clutch, and I'm pretty good at it.. I take a lot of crap because I double clutch.. I dont care.. anyway, Mack trannys are not as smooth as Eaton's. The splitter doesnt require double clutching, just flip the button and, off + on with the throttle, and away you go.. Since I am not a full time driver with decades of full time driving, I reluctantly make comments on how to shift.. As a Mechanic for decades, I have opinions, I have seen a lot of chewed of trannys and drivelines.. I am quite sure you will drive this tranny like a pro.. I hope im still 'on-track'

I like the 'Sidetracking'.. It's like were all sittin at a bar shootin the Sh!t.. So far I havent seen a post from the originator saying,,, ''Cut-it-out!''..

Hey Mech?? MrsMackPaul has a topic that needs a 'sidetrack'.. if your interested..

I forgot to tell you.. make up a fitting with a shut off valve. you will lose some fuel when you install the fitting assembly. so you will need to crack the valve open and pump the fuel primer until fuel comes out of the valve. This ensures that fuel is in the galleries.. then proceed with the rest of the setup.. the port is 1/4'' NPT.. you can screw an air tool nipple into the valve so you can put pressure to it.

Just use one of the rear plugs. the pressure will travel through the EUP's and fuel lines. Be sure to remove the fuel line that comes from the tanks and goes to the input of the primary filter. Then plug the port in the filter pad. That will keep the air pressure in the engine and not going back to the tank. leave the fuel pump assembled and pull it back out of the block a half inch or so, so you can see if it is dripping with pressure.. I suggest the rear plug because, when you spill fuel at the front plugs, you won't be fooled in to thinking you found the leak.. the rear plugs do not go into the oil..

So far I will stay on 'topic'.. Adkat, you make me laugh.. and your right too... I can sidetrack anything lately.. OK.. as far as the E-Tech in question.. Adkat, You said it right, in my opinion.. Yes to PAI parts, I have built 7 Mack engines so far, with PAI parts, and they run good, and fitment is 'spot-on'. The engine kits have twice as many parts and gaskets as the Mack kits.. for half the price.. The Mack tranny's are very strong, Good maintenance of the oil, air valves and shift cyl. o-rings, will allow the synchro to last a lot longer.. Yes, very expensive to fix compared to an Eaton.. How'my doin' Adkat ? 🍻

IGV... mat I suggest you pick one of the rear plugs. It takes a 1/4'' dr. ratchet to remove the plug.. I suggest a breaker bar to loosen it, because it may be tight enough to break the little ratchet. Here is a picture of the E-Tech supplement book.

Good... Just keep in touch here as you go, step-by-step.. Have you gotten a Book on the engine so you can see pictures of where the fuel galleries are and the 2 plugs in the front of the engine near the breather. there are 2 at the rear, around the corner from the #6 cylinder. They are in a straight line to the front plugs.. you will notice that the fuel inlet in the block aligns with one gallery, and the return fitting at the block is in line with the other gallery. Fuel surrounds the EUP's between the o-rings. You may have noticed 2 sets of holes in the EUP's when you had them out..

I will suggest you do the fuel pressure test that I posted earlier. It will take a few hours, but it is better than just doing a re-build, and you really need to know where the leak is!! Otherwise, what ever you put into the engine will be wasted, because the fuel leak is still there..

Stealth Brake..

Good Deal Bob.. Last week, I was looking at our whole house HVAC unit.. The A/C went out last July. I had saved enough money to buy a new unit, only to find out I need an HVAC liscense to buy one.. That sucked.. So $3,000.00 turned into $6,000.00 +.. I decided to do some some trouble shooting, and found the Start Capacitor was bad.. I replace both of them, ($44.00) Well, ''on a Happier Note''.. ''Kaboom'' It works perfectly.. Hopefully I get a lot more service from it.. Dodged a Bullet there.. I hope you have a great day Bob..

I have pictures.. There are fire rings, the white box has the part number. The other 2 boxes are the part numbers for the rest of the gasket sets.

Mine have fire rings.. if I remember, when I get home I will get a picture of them. They are still in the package.

My hearing is about 50 percent. Ears are clogged all the time.. Thank You China....