Joey Mack

There should have been a core charge..

Oh Hell.... can you post some pics? You can use a coolant system pressure tester to see the leaks... you may have to drain the oil and leave the plug out while pressure testing to see if coolant pours out... Sorry Bud.... jojo

It's true.. I have repaired 5+6 many times.. I recommend using new bolts. They are metric grade 10.9.. the final torque is 60 lbft.. I believe that was posted already.. take the bolts down evenly til snug, then 30ftlb on each then final torque.. Before you do any of this, get new o-ring kits, and use 320ish emery cloth to clean the chamfer at the top of the EUP bore. so the (pre-lubed) o-ring doesn't get cut going in... jojo

Yes sir TJC.. I may not even need to cut a door, maybe just some air holes with homemade dampers to control air flow.. My grill is smaller than the top opening, so I may just set it to the front, leaving the back open to drop wood into.. then to clean it out, just lift the grill off and shovel out the ashes..

I bet you dont have the diagram in the slot inside the fuse panel.. I would just check each fuse in the panel behind the door.. You can use a DVOM, set to ohms to check each fuse without pulling them out.. If one reads 'OL' replace it.. then go outside to the box under the center of the windshield and do the same.. Should only take 15 minutes.. jojo

Thats great.. I just acquired this 1/4" thick 2'x2'x2' steel well cover from my City job.. I was thinking about using my old stainless steel grill on top of the box, and cutting a door into the box and putting hinges and a latch on it so i can cook with wood or do some smoking.. What do you think?? opinions??

can you make a flat plate with a few holes in it and evenly take it up with bolts to push the wear ring on til its flush, then use the flywheel to recess the wear ring.. I beleive the flywheel fits over the crank hub just a bit around 1/32nd " .. anyone else ever done that? I have on an E-7 in a pinch..

Looks like a wear ring to me.. they are soft, so simple careful methods can remove it.. Don't tell anybody..... But I have used a very sharp wood chisel to cut into it before, once it loosens up you can use a needle nose to pull it off..

Thread size is 10mmx1.50...

Another thing I think I see in the pics... Looks like the right rear air bag may have rotated at the top which can exaggerate the appearance of movement.. the axle is still wrong, but the air bag makes it look worse.. Look at the picture of the rear of the truck.. jojo

May I suggest you call your Mack parts house and find out what the length of the correct torque arm is. I think it's 21".. you measure 'on center' if the one you have is the wrong length,. Well,,,, theres an issue right there.. jojo

Any chance the sensor plugs were swapped ? They are the same.....

I bet the rear wheels are visible in your mirror when your in the big seat.. that is a transverse torque arm issue as well.. that's the one that goes from the rear carrier to the frame rail. That can be shimmed using grade 8,,, 5/8'' 1/16'' thick washers.. Gosh I wish some of us where there to help you with this. it's not 'rocket surgery'... I still think the centering dowels on the banjo housings are worn out and need to be welded up then ground back to 'Round'... jojo

ok. there is an issue on the 'D' side.. that polished look means it moving.. I made a tool many years ago to check the distance between the drive axle hubs.. there is a dimple in the center of the axels.. I assume you know about them.. I drew this diagram because I cant go outside to photo my tool... we are under a tornado storm warning... .... I use this tool to get the axels as close to even as I can. It is NOT an alignment tool, but it will get the truck on the road and to the 'line-up' shop.. of course if your tires are already worn, you can run the truck to see how the wear pattern and axle position looks.. I used a length of 1'' conduit, and made 2 sliding blocks and welded rods to each one to be my pointer's, and drilled a hole in each and welded a nut over those holes, then made my own 'T-Bolts' to use to secure the pointers.. I put one pointer in the axle dimple, then slide the other one till it mates up to the other axle dimple, and lock it down.. then take the tool over to the other side to see how far off the axels are, then I adjust the axle spread accordingly.. I hope I helped... sometimes I make it worse.. Jojo

I told my wife that Kamalatoe would be President in 2022.. I wonder how far off I WILL,, be??

Aint it a damn shame?? Now cooking on a gas stove is bad.. Next,,,, they will say it is 'Racist' because gas lines are in low income and primarily Black and Brown neighborhoods.. Mark my word's... jojo

Is there a loose heat shield on the exhaust? Is the floor pan around the shifter loose? Day cab or Sleeper truck?

yes they are, but the threads on them SUCK, and may only get a couple uses out of one,,, but still a good idea, especialy in a pinch..

Masterwelder,,,,, You may be on to something that will help a boat load of guys here... Awesome !!!

RW's are my favorite.. I was able to drive a couple of them in the last 2 years. An E-9 powered dump truck and a couple E-6 powered ones.. Too bad neither one was mine.

Well the Classified document 'thing' is tilting a bit to the left.. Lets see how long the list of excuses and denials will be.. I bet K.J.P. flips her lid during questioning..

You may have a point there, Onyx...

My guess is a combo of good meds on the outside, and good Booze to sterilize from the inside.. I know it works for me..

You will need to remove the dog house to get to it.. Have you ever pulled that steel panel out? Just curious,, jojo

I just looked back.. Onyx said EGR on DD came in 2003.. heck, I would think I'd remember that...